Wednesday, July 27, 2022

A Chronology of Early Chicago Area Hotels.

Forward
 
Where Hospitality Met History,
Chicago’s Grand Welcome

Before Chicago became the city of steel, jazz, and skyscrapers, it was a frontier town with muddy streets and a dream. That dream found its most elegant expression in the rise of its hotels—palaces of comfort, commerce, and civic pride. From the humble Sauganash Hotel in 1831, where travelers found respite at Wolf Point, to the opulent Tremont House, where Lincoln and Douglas once addressed crowds from its balcony, Chicago’s early hotels were more than lodgings—they were history stages.

This section invites you to stroll through a timeline of architectural ambition and social transformation. Discover how the Great Fire of 1871 didn’t just destroy—it cleared the canvas for a new era of hotel design, culminating in the “Big Four” post-fire marvels: the Palmer House, Grand Pacific, Tremont, and Sherman House. These weren’t just buildings; they were declarations of Chicago’s resilience and cosmopolitan spirit.

By the time the World's Columbian Exposition arrived in 1893, the city boasted over 1,400 hotels and lodging houses. Whether you’re drawn to the grandeur of the Stevens Hotel (once the world’s largest), the lakeside elegance of the Drake Hotel, or the postcard-perfect charm of long-lost second-class inns, this chronology offers a window into the soul of a city that always knew how to roll out the welcome mat.

So unpack your curiosity, check in with wonder, and let Chicago’s hotel history sweep you off your feet.


1700 AD
Along animal migration trails, Indian paths, and later stagecoach routes, the created stops and stations became the foundation for the settlement and growth of many hamlets, villages, and towns in Illinois and the U.S. Territories. For longer trips, overnight accommodations were necessary to complete the journey. Experienced women travelers carried a bag with "necessities" just in case a short trip turned into an overnight fiasco. 

The first taverns in Chicagoua (Allium Tricoccum,) the native garlic plant in the onion family, began in the 1820s as log structures. Guests were served a dinner and breakfast, typically consisting of sweetened bread, which was included with the overnight stay. The taverns sold a large quantity of beer, whiskey, and liquor to drink on-site and also offered a selection of beer to take home. The saloon's favorite snacks were very salty ("keeps 'em drink'n"), pickled eggs, pickled pig's feet, and Jerky. The accommodations were basic: a bed, a bite to eat, a roof over your head, a clean outhouse, and a stable, perhaps horse services; food, water, a brushing, and a stall with a horse blanket.

Taverns, hotels, and boarding houses had no clear distinction between them during this era.
1823
The Wolf Point Tavern was familiarly called Rat Castle or Old Geese's Tavern; later names were Taylor's Tavern, Traveler's Home & Western Stage House. It was the first public house in Chicago, opened in 1823 by James Kinzie, John Kinzie's son, and David Hall on Wolf Point [now West Wacker Drive and Canal Street]. A sign with a painted wolf hung on a wooden post by the door, but there was no name written on the sign. The tavern sign was believed to be the work of Lieutenant Allen from Fort Dearborn. The Tavern was later rented to Archibald Caldwell, who obtained Chicago's 1st tavern license on December 8, 1829. A night's lodging costs 12½ ¢ plus 13¢ per horse for stable services: feed, water, a brushing, and a stall with a horse blanket.

Early in 1830, Elijah Wentworth, Sr. [nickname: "Old Geese"] took over the management, paying Kinzie $300 per year until 1832. It was often referred to as Old Geese's Tavern during those years. Alternatively, the early settlers referred to it as Rat Castle, even though it was the best-run Tavern in town. In June 1832, Charles Taylor and his wife, Mary, rented and ran the business for about a year, during which it served as General Scott's headquarters during the 1832 Black Hawk War. The Tavern was referred to as Taylor's Tavern. In 1833, Chester Ingersoll bought and operated the Tavern under Traveler's Home and Western Stage House. It ceased to be a public house in 1834.
Wolf Point Tavern
1825
Robinson's Tavern & Store, Mr. Alexandre Robinson adapted an Indian store near Wolf Point. He obtained a liquor license on June 9, 1830, and added a tavern. Also, in 1830, this location became part of block 29, and Robinson purchased lots 1 and 2 from the government.

1827
The Miller House, aka Miller's Tavern, was originally a log cabin built in 1820 by Alexander Robinson on the projection of land between the north branch and the main channel of the Chicago River opposite Wolf Point. 

In 1827, Samuel Miller and his brother John, with Archibald Clybourn holding a partnership interest, added a two-story house to the cabin, fronting the river. 

John Fonda and Boiseley stayed there in January 1828. Initially used as a store and then as a "hotel" for travelers, the structure soon became a traditional tavern, licensed on April 13, 1831. When Sam Miller moved to Elkhart, Indiana, after his wife's death in 1832, P.F.W. Peck moved in with goods and managed a store.
 
In the December term, 1825, Peoria County commissioners established Chicago Precinct and laid out its boundaries. The Peoria County commissioners' court fixed the prices at which taverns should sell whisky and other alcoholic beverages. Eight dollars was the usual annual license fee for taverns; five received permits to operate in the Chicago Precinct of Peoria County. Archibald Clybourn and Samuel Miller, jointly, were the first to be licensed by Peoria commissioners. The record, entered at a special term on May 2, 1829, reads:
"The Chicago Precinct ... ordered that license be granted to Archibald Clybourn and Samuel Miller to keep a tavern [The Miller House] at Chicago in this state and that the clerk take Bond & Security of the parties for $100 ($3,200 today), and $8 for [the Liquor] License."
Laughton's Tavern. David and Bernardus Laughton established a trading post and Tavern in the late 1820s near the confluence of Salt Creek and the Des Plaines River (Lyons).

1829
The Eagle Exchange Tavern, later renamed Sauganash Tavern and then the United States Hotel, opened in 1829 on the east bank of the South Branch of the Chicago River, in the middle of Lake Street. Mark Beaubien bought a log cabin in 1826 or 1827 from James Kinzie. When the streets were laid out in 1830, he had to move the building slightly south onto the S.E. corner of Market Street [North Wacker] and Lake, onto lots three and four of block 31, which he then bought in 1831. A two-story, large frame house was added, and the establishment became the Sauganash Hotel. 

Emily Beaubien recalled that her father, Mark, sold Indian goods in a little log store. He bought the cabin and later incorporated it into the Eagle Exchange, and he was the first to have a billiard table in a public house.

The Sauganash Hotel was named for Billy Caldwell (Sauganash) [SAKONOSH] and opened in 1831. The location at the southeast corner of West Lake Street and North Wacker Drive (now Market Street) was designated a Chicago Landmark on November 6, 2002. 

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In 1835, Mr. Davis assumed control of the hotel, which was subsequently managed by a series of proprietors. The building briefly served as Chicago's first theatre and hosted the first Chicago Theatre Company in November 1837 in an abandoned dining room. By 1839, it returned to service as a hotel but was destroyed by fire in 1851.

The Wigwam (Indian: 'temporary shelter') was built in its place in 1860.
The Eagle Exchange Tavern is on the left, and the two-story addition is the Sauganash Hotel at the SE corner of Market and Lake Streets.




1830
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James Thompson surveyed and platted the hamlet of Chicago, which by 1820 had a population of 100 or fewer inhabitants. Historians regard the August 4, 1830 filing of the plat as the official recognition of a location known as Chicago.

Heacock's Point was on the south branch of the Chicago River, South of Hardscrabble [Bridgeport]. Russell Heacock took up land on the south fork of the south branch of the Chicago River near Thirty-Fifth Street today. Heacock was staunchly independent, which is probably why he had moved to the Hardscrabble area (Bridgeport today) in the first place. He opened Heacock's Point, a hotel and Tavern, in 1830.

He needed to move closer to Chicago so that his children could attend school. Heacock himself was one of Chicago's early school teachers. Heacock retained his Hardscrabble property after moving to Chicago. 

Heacock is notable for two reasons. First, he was the sole dissenter when a vote was called to incorporate the Town of Chicago (1832). The second thing was his promotion of the Illinois and Michigan Canal. Because funds to build the canal were scarce, a plan was devised to reduce its cost by lowering the intended depth of the channel. Russell Heacock was perhaps the most vocal proponent of this plan, earning him the nickname "Shallow-Cut." Perhaps he disliked the nickname, but the shallow-cut plan was ultimately successful.
Map of Hardscrabble, "Bridgeport," Illinois area, 1830.
Mann's Tavern, on the Calumet River.

The Buckhorn Tavern, aka Laughton's Tavern, was located on the west side of the Des Plaines River on Plainfield Road in Lyons. Plainfield Road was one of the main trails connected with the Ogden Avenue Trail at Lyons. David and Bernardus Laughton are known to have settled on the site in 1827 or '28.

Elijah Wentworth, Chicago's first letter carrier, brought the mail from Fort Wayne before there was a post office in Chicago. Wentworth moved to Lyons in 1830 and kept the Buckhorn Tavern," which was on Plainfield Road, southeast of Hinsdale. The Buckhorn Tavern accommodated weary travelers from Fort Dearborn to Joliet on the stage road. 

1831
The Mansion House was built in 1831 by Dexter Graves on the corner of Lake and Dearborn streets. Graves sold to Edward Haddock [his later son-in-law] in 1834, who sold the Hotel to Abram A. Markle in 1835. An  August 7, 1835, ad in the Chicago American was referred to as the "Cook's Coffee House." In 1837, Jason Gurley managed the Mansion House. The Hotel was later moved at least twice but was destroyed by the 1871 Great Chicago Fire.

1832
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My articles below, demonstrate the difficulty of Stage travel, even on beautiful sunny days. Keep in mind that when it rained in Chicago the area turned swampy making any kind of travel a difficult challenge. (Example; Ridge Avenue and  Boulevard on Chicago's northside ran along the top of a ridge formed by prehistoric glaciers. It was part of the rim of a massive prehistoric lake geologists call Lake Chicago.)  
 
"The traveler who embarks upon an extended journey by Stage 
Committed himself to a venture whose outcome no man could foresee." 

Frink & Walker Stage Line Company of Chicago. (est. 1832)



1833
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Chicago had only twenty-eight voters who could participate in the organization of the local government in 1833.

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Chicago was incorporated as a town on August 12, 1833, with a population of about 350.

The Green Tree Tavern was later renamed the Chicago Hotel, and then the Lake Street House. It acquired its name from a solitary oak tree nearby. Built by Silas B. Cobb for James Kinzie as a two-story frame building in 1833 that stood at the N.E. corner of what is now Lake and Canal Streets. The structure had low ceilings and doors, and the windows were set with tiny panes of glass. It was managed by a succession of landlords, initially by David Clark and then by Edward Parsons. It was later called the Chicago Hotel [as early as December 1833], then the Lake Street House in 1849. The building was relocated to Milwaukee Avenue in 1880 and subsequently fell into disrepair. 

Mark Beaubien managed the Sauganash Hotel in 1836, renaming it "United States Hotel," until, in 1837, he built his own United States Hotel west of the river at the corner of West Water and Randolph Streets.
The Green Tree Tavern, Chicago. 1833.










Walker's House, Wolf Point, 1833. It was listed as Walker's House and misidentified as a hotel. As it turns out, Walker's House was actually Father Walker's House. Father Walker may have rented a room, but there is no information available about the exact location of Walker House or whether it functioned as a hotel.

Tremont House I, the original Tremont Hotel, was built in 1833. It was a three-story wooden structure located at the northwest corner of Lake and Dearborn streets, and it was destroyed by fire in 1839. It was established by Ira Couch, who took the name from the Boston Tremont House.


Brown's Boarding House opened in 1833. Charles Cleaver remembers his arrival in Chicago on October 23, 1833. We turned north and made for the center of the village, between Franklin and LaSalle Streets, near the river. Here, we had to wait an hour or two until we could find a place to spend the night. We finally found shelter under the most fashionable 16×24 foot log boarding house, kept by a Mrs. Brown.

About forty people ate at Mrs. Brown's daily—how many slept there? I could not say. I know they took in our party of sixteen on the first night in Chicago and set the table for breakfast, served until about dinnertime (noon), until suppertime for the day's main and last meal.

1834
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A Bit About Hotel Dining & Entertainment in Chicago
The first public professional performance in Chicago took place in 1834. It cost 50¢ for adults, 25¢ for children and seniors 28 or older enter for free (jk). The show was staged by a Mr. Bowers, who promised to eat “fire-balls, burning sealing wax, live coals of fire and melted lead.” Somehow, he also did ventriloquism. Other traveling showmen passed through over the next two years; a circus pitched its tent on Lake Street in the fall of 1836. But it wasn't until 1837 that the first local theatre company, "The Chicago Theatre," was established (the famous Chicago Theater we all know and love opened in 1921). 

The 1960s brought dinner theatre to the forefront of entertainment in Chicago. Dinner's entertainment ranged from small musical groups, big bands,  orchestras, and famous entertainers with dinner, then dancing to live music late into the night. The Drake Hotel in Chicago's Gold Coast neighborhood, hosted a live nightly radio show from the Camellia House Restaurant in the 1950s and '60s.

The Exchange Coffee House was later called the Illinois Exchange and sometimes the New York Exchange. Built in 1834, it's the second Hotel built by Mark Beaubien. The Exchange Coffee House was located at the N.W. corner of Lake and Wells Streets and was initially run by Mr. and Mrs. John Murphy. Subsequent managers or owners were A.A. Markle in 1836, Jason Gurley in 1838, and Charles W. Cook in 1839.

Stiles' Tavern, on the south branch of the Chicago River, opened in 1834. Stiles' Tavern was especially noted for its matrimonial facilities. 

The Pre-Emption House, Naper's Settlement [Naperville].
The Pre-Emption House was built in 1834 on Main Street and Chicago Avenue in Naper's Settlement [Naperville]. It was the first hotel and tavern west of Chicago. It was named after a federal law that allowed settlers to reserve up to 160 acres of land. 

A steady stream of easterners and immigrants journeyed west to claim land sold for just $1.25 an acre. Settlers passing through town on the north-south or east-west stagecoach routes kept business brisk. The Pre-Emption House offered a traveler a shot of whiskey, a bed for the night, and breakfast, plus feed and stabling for their horse, all for 35¢. It was torn down in 1946.

In the Pre-Emption House tavern, locals conducted business deals and celebrated with dances. They ate meals in the dining room. The Pre-Emption House hosted official government business before constructing the first DuPage County courthouse in Naperville in 1839. Monthly Horse Market Days were held in front of the hotel, drawing farmers and dealers from all over to buy, sell, and showcase their horses. It was torn down in 1946.
The original Pre-Emption House and Tavern is located in Naperville, on the corner of Main Street and Chicago Avenue. Built in 1834, it was one of President Lincoln's most comforting stops.
Hobson House & Tavern was a Greek Revival-style house that doubled as the Hobson Tavern on the west branch of the DuPage River.
The Hobson House, the three-story building, also hosted the Hobson Tavern.




1835
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The Lake House Hotel served oysters in a number of different ways on the menu in 1835. I explain some of the transportation issues involved in getting fresh, live oysters to Chicago at first. 

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A Teen Girl's Opinion of Chicago as Written in 1835.
Ellen Bigelow, a young woman in her late teens, arrived at Chicago with her sister, Sarah, on the Illinois brig on May 24, 1835. Fourteen days out of Buffalo, New York. The daughters of Lewis Bigelow, a lawyer from Petersham, MA, moved to Peoria several months earlier with other family members. The girls left Chicago the following day by stage, arriving two days later in Peoria. 

Within a month, Ellen detailed their arduous journey in a letter to an aunt, and that relevant to Chicago follows: "Chicago I don`t like at all. The town is low and dirty, though situated advantageously for commercial purposes. I saw only one place where I would live if they gave me all their possessions, and that was at Fort Dearborn. I liked that. It is beautifully situated, and the grounds and buildings are neat and handsome. A great land fever was raging when we arrived there, and I am told it has not yet abated. Property changes hands there daily, and it is thought no speculation at all if it doesn`t double in value by being retained one night. I think they are all raving distracted, and if I'm not mistaken, in a few years, if not months, will reduce things to their proper level and restore them to their senses."

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In the winter of 1835 and 1836, weekly dancing parties were inaugurated at the Lake House, and four-horse sleighs and wagons were sent around to collect the ladies who attended them. From this time society seemed to take upon itself amore decided form, rising from the chaos in which it had been before.

The Steamboat Hotel, later known as the American Hotel or American Inn, opened in 1835 on North Water Street, near Kinzie Street, and was operated by John Davis. On November 9 that year, J. Dorsey and J. Force announced in the Chicago Democrat that they had assumed management and "nothing shall be wanting to render their House worthy of a call from a few of the many who visit this flourishing village." It was renamed the American Hotel, also known as the American Inn, in 1836 when it was acquired by William McCorristen.
The Steam Boat Hotel was renamed the American Hotel in 1836.
The Lake House Hotel was the Chicago region's first luxury hotel, and its Lake House Restaurant was the first fine dining establishment to open in 1835. The restaurant used menu cards, and the tables were set with a tablecloth, napkins, quality silverware, and glassware. Dinner was served in courses, and the meal ended with dessert and a damp napkin. Toothpicks were already on the table. Fresh-caught fish from Lake Michigan and other local fishing spots were on the daily menu. The Lake House Restaurant holds another Chicago' first' record. They were the first in the area to offer fresh oysters on the menu. The oysters were transported on a schedule from New England by sleigh in 1835.

By 1850, the Lake House no longer functioned as a hotel but had become a charitable hospital for the poor, initially with 12 beds. In December of that year, the Order of Sisters of Mercy members assumed responsibility for nursing care. Among the attending physicians was Dr. Daniel Brainard, who provided free care in exchange for the privilege of conducting teaching sessions with his Rush Medical School students on the premises. Thus, Lake House became Chicago's original Mercy Hospital site and retained that purpose until October 1953, when they moved to a new brick building on Wabash Avenue and Van Buren Street. 
Looking N.E. at the Lake House Hotel and the Lake House Restaurant at the foot of the Rush Street Bridge, circa 1857.








Newton's Hotel & Tavern opened in 1835. Hollis Newton owned a 48-acre plot where he ran a roadside hotel and Tavern three miles south of Chicago's border. He died on August 25, 1835, two months after the hotel opened. 
NOTE: In 1835, Chicago's southern border was 22nd Street (now Cermak Road).

The Western Hotel opened in 1835. It was a small structure built and operated by W.H. Stow on the S.E. corner of Canal and Randolph streets.

Planck's Tavern, located in Dutchman's Point (Niles, IL), was established in 1835 by John Planck (or "Plank"), who moved there in 1834. The tavern was situated 12 miles northwest of the Chicago River, on the Milwaukee Road (also known as the "Northwestern Plank Road," completed in 1851), in Niles Township.

1836
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The population of Chicago, according to the last census, was 3279. In 1836, there were 44 stores (dry goods, hardware and food groceries), 2 book stores, 4 druggists, 2 silversmiths and jewelers, 2 tin and copper manufactories, 2 printing offices, 2 breweries, 1 steam sawmill, 1 iron foundry, four storage and forwarding houses, 3 taverns, 1 lottery office, 1 bank, 5 churches, 7 schools, 22 lawyers, 14 physicians, a lyceum (secondary school) and a reading room. Nine brick buildings have been erected the past season: a three-story tavern and a county clerk’s office.

American Hotel (aka American Inn) North Water Street at Kinzie Street, 1836-1839 (see: The Steam Boat Hotel, 1835)
The American Hotel opened as the Steamboat Hotel in 1835.
Castle Inn, Brush Hill Trail, [Hinsdale], opened in 1836.

Ellis Inn opened in 1836.

Fay's Boarding House opened in 1836.

Ike Cook's Saloon, also known as Cook's Coffee House, was located on the north side of Lake Street, near Dearborn, and opened in 1836. (see The Mansion House, 1831)

Kelsey's Boarding House opened in 1836, close to the lakefront. It was a small yellow house owned by Parnick [Patrick] and Eve Kelsey, who ran it as a boarding house.

Kettlestrings' Tavern: In the 1830s, the Kettlestring family purchased 170 acres just west of Chicago. This quarter section of land was known as Kettlestrings' Grove, then Oak Ridge Inn, then Harlem, and finally, Oak Park today.

In the 1850s, the family began selling large parcels of their land holdings to those who followed the first train to run West of Chicago. The railway station was eventually named Oak Park. While Oak Park became the area's official name, it remained unincorporated and was officially part of Cicero Township until 1902. 

The Patterson Tavern, [Winnetka]. In 1836, Erastus and Zeruah (also known as Zernah) Patterson, along with their five children, traveled west from Vermont as part of an ox-drawn wagon train comprising six families. The group camped on the hill at the site now known as Lloyd Park in Winnetka. While the five other families continued their journey, the Pattersons decided they had arrived at a beautiful and ripe spot for commerce. They settled on the stagecoach route, the "Green Bay Trail," which connected Chicago's Fort Dearborn, Milwaukee, and Fort Howard in Green Bay, Wisconsin. 

Patterson built a log house along the new stagecoach stop in 1836 and opened the Patterson Tavern. Wayfarers could warm themselves or cool off, depending on the season. They could also buy a drink or a meal, rest and feed their horses, and stay the night before resuming their journeys.

Erastus Patterson died the following year. "Widow" Patterson ran the Tavern with her sons until 1845, becoming one of the first women in the area to operate a business. She sold the Tavern to Lucas Miller, who sold it to Marcus Gilman a short time later. Gilman sold it to John Garland, a prominent early settler, in 1847.

The "Lake View Tavern," as it was then called, had a reputation for selling "the best drink of whiskey between Chicago and Milwaukee." Garland operated the Tavern as a wayside inn six days a week; on the Sabbath, the Tavern turned into a church. There were 
no sales of any alcohol. Period!

Rexford House, Blue Island, opened in 1836.

Rice's Coffee House, Lake Street, opened in 1836.

The Halfway House, aka Dr. Wright House, [Plainfield] 1836Plainfield was first settled in the 1820s by a group seeking to convert the local Potawatomi to Christianity. Squire L.F. Arnold, the first postmaster of Plainfield, owned the tract of land on which the building stands. In 1834, he built a small building to serve as a post office and a stop for stagecoaches.

The property was sold in 1836, and a two-story building was constructed adjacent to the original structure. This new structure operated as a tavern and Inn. The Inn earned its name by being halfway on the stagecoach line between Chicago and Ottawa. A year later, Dr. Erastus Wight became the manager of the Halfway House, where he remained until he died in 1845. His son, Dr. Roderick Wight, took over from his father and purchased the building in 1850. Later that year, he added a one-story addition to the back of the Inn.

The Inn's large size made it an ideal site for town affairs. It was used as a meeting hall in its early years and became the primary location for Plainfield social events. The Plainfield Light Artillery used the building as its headquarters from 1856 until the outbreak of the Civil War. The building ceased to function as an inn in 1886 and was converted into a private residence. It was home to the descendants of the Wight family until 1956. The original building that served as a stop for stagecoach passengers was demolished in the 1940s. The remaining building was added to the National Register of Historic Places on September 29, 1980.

The New York House opened in 1836. Professional dance instructor Mr. Jackeax hosted a weekly dinner and dance school at the New York House Restaurant. The perfect evening out... fine dining, quality wines, liquors, desserts, and then dancing. Jackeax's events were known as first-rate and catered to the city's elite.

1837
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With a population of 4,170, the town of Chicago filed new Incorporation documents on March 4, 1837, becomming the City of Chicago and for several decades was the world's fastest-growing city.

The City Hotel (1837-58) The Sherman House I (1858-73)
The City Hotel was a large three-story brick structure constructed by Francis Cornwall Sherman. They opened in 1837 on the N.W. corner of Clark and Randolph streets. 

In 1839, Sherman retired from managing the Hotel, handing over management to the firm of James Williamson and A.H. Squier. Williamson retired from the firm the following year, and William Rickards acquired his interest. The proprietorship of the Hotel remained in possession of Rickards and Squier until 1851, when they sold their proprietorship to the firm of Brown & Tuttle. In 1844, the hotel underwent a remodeling project, and two additional stories were added. In 1854, the firm became Tuttle & Patmor when A.H. Patmor acquired Brown's share in that firm. In 1858, the proprietorship was acquired by Martin Hodge and Hiram Longly, and the City Hotel was sold, becoming the future Sherman House Hotel.
The First Sherman House in 1858.

Francis Cornwall Sherman built a new structure on the City Hotel lot, breaking ground on May 1, 1860, and named it the Sherman House, also known as Hotel Sherman. The Grand Opening welcomed the first guests on July 1, 1861.

The Sherman House II was designed by William W. Boyington and operated by George W. Gage. It became one of the city's grand hotels alongside the Tremont House. The front of the building was made of Athens marble on the levels above its storefronts. Its primary entrance was along Clark Street, with a two-story portico. To the right of the main entrance was the building's ladies' entrance. The building, which was 161 feet long along Randolph Street and 181 feet long along Clark Street, featured an open court in its center and rose six stories. A western section of the building along Couch Place rose seven stories. The building was designed in modern Italian style. The Hotel was lost in the Great Chicago Fire in 1871.
The Second Iteration of the Sherman House Hotel in 1861.

The Little Sherman House. When the Great Fire of 1871 destroyed the Sherman House, the owners leased the building at 39 West Madison and Clinton Streets, which had just been completed and was known as the "Little Sherman House" until the new Sherman House was built. It was afterward known as the Gault House until the Gault House management built their new hotel at Madison and Market Streets.

The Sherman House Hotel III, at 151 Monroe Street. Francis Cornwall Sherman rebuilt his Hotel. From 1872 to 1873, the Hotel's third structure was constructed at the same site as the previous hotels. The third Hotel, as with the second, was designed by William W. Boyington. The building was 160 feet long along Randolph Street and 181 feet long along Clark Street. As with the previous building, the entrance was located along Clark Street. The ladies' entrance was along Randolph Street. The building had a courtyard and featured fireproof vaults. The building was constructed from grey sandstone from a newly opened quarry in Kankakee, Illinois. The building was 115 feet tall. It contained 300 luxurious rooms, including suites. The hotel became the Chicago headquarters of the Democratic Party. In 1904, Joseph Beifeld became the owner of the Hotel. Three generations of the Sherman family operated the Hotel. In September 1909, the Hotel closed to be replaced with a new structure.
The Third Iteration of the Sherman House Hotel in 1873.


The Sherman House Hotel IV was renamed before the Hotel Sherman opened in 1911. A new 757-room Hotel Sherman was designed by Holabird and Roche. Hotel Sherman retained its status as one of the finest hotels in the city from the time it opened, a reputation that lasted into the 1950s. In 1972, a decision was made to strip the building to its steel frame and reconstruct it as a modern building with a glass curtain wall, transforming it into an apparel mart named the "Sherman Fashion Plaza."





1839
The Illinois Exchange, 192 Lake Street, 1839 Chicago Business Directory.

The Mansion House (see Cook's Coffee House - 1831)

Shakspeare Hotel, North Water Street, near the Lake House, 1839 Chicago Business Directory.

1840
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By the 1840s, the Sauganash Hotel, Mansion House, and the Lake House, at different times, offered an all night "dinner, dancing, and breakfast" event, monthly. Dinner was served at six o'clock, followed by breakfast at seven o'clock the next morning. Some locals would stay overnight because night travel was slow and difficult, especially when inebriated and... is not safe for a lady to be out. Chicago's 1840 U.S. census recorded a population of 4,470 persons.

The Tremont Hotel II was a three-story structure located at the S.E. corner of Lake and Dearborn streets. It was completed in 1840 after the first Tremont Hotel fire.

The Washington House, S.E. corner of Clark and South Water Streets, 1840.

1844
The Michigan Street House, Michigan Street and La Salle, 1844
1871 Chicago Fire map portion.








The American Temperance House, [alcohol-free], N.W. corner of Lake Street and Wabash Avenue, Chicago, 1844

The Taylor Temperance House, [alcohol-free],1844

The Farmers' Exchange was near Franklin and Water Streets in 1844

1850
The Tremont Hotel III was constructed on the same site as the second hotel at the Southeast corner of Lake and Dearborn Streets. They opened in 1850 in a five-story brick structure with 260 rooms, designed by John M. Van Osdel. It was a block masonry structure with the finest amenities of the day. The large hotel was initially dubbed "Couch's Folly" by those who expected it to fail. It was once considered the leading hotel in the western United States.

The building was among the largest to be physically raised when Chicago heightened the grade of its streets in the 1850s and 1860s (Raising Chicago Streets Out of the Mud). In 1861, Ely, Smith, and Pullman lifted the Tremont House six feet in the air (George Pullman made his reputation as a building raiser before becoming famous for manufacturing rail sleeping cars). The building was one of many in Chicago that were raised to match the upward-shifting street grade, improving proper drainage during the mid-nineteenth century.

Abraham Lincoln frequently visited Chicago to sit in the U.S. District Court. Like most prominent attorneys and politicians, Mr. Lincoln usually stayed at the Tremont Hotel when in Chicago. In 1855, Chicago boasted a population of 85,000 and 57 hotels. 

During the 1858 United States senatorial race in Illinois, Stephen A. Douglas, who regularly stayed at the hotel while in Chicago, delivered a speech on July 9, 1858, that included a rebuke to Abraham Lincoln's "House Divided" Speech. Lincoln, who was in Chicago to attend an opening session of the United States District Court, appeared at the hotel that night to deliver a rebuttal. This marked the beginning of each individual's Senate campaign.

The Tremont served as the headquarters for the Illinois Republican Party during the 1860 Republican National Convention (held at the nearby Wigwam) as they lobbied for Abraham Lincoln's nomination.

Stephen A. Douglas died at the hotel on June 3, 1861.

In 1865, Mary Lincoln stayed at the hotel for one week following her husband's assassination. Robert Lincoln and Tad Lincoln stayed with her during that time.

The hotel burned to the ground during the Great Chicago Fire in 1871.
Tremont House at the S.E. corner of Lake and Dearborn Streets, Chicago. c.1865




The Matteson House I, on the N.W. corner of Dearborn and Randolph streets, 1850.
Looking eastward towards Dearborn. The Matteson House I (1850-1871) is under the arrow on the northwest corner of Dearborn and Randolph Streets, Chicago.
Note the Chicago Street Paver Bricks.






The Hamilton House, S.E. corner of Clark and South Water Streets,1850.

1854
The Briggs House, on the corner of Randolph Street and Fifth Avenue (today's Wells Street), 1854. In 1866, the building was raised 4 feet 2 inches from its foundation, Raising Chicago Streets Out of the Mud.






1855
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The 1855 Chicago City Directory added a new category: Restaurants. As we can see, there are not too many restaurant listings yet, but never fear. Many restaurants were hotel owned or leased from the hotel. Nepotism ran rampant in fine dining restaurants. Think of this time period as Chicago's restaurant gold rush of the [mid]west.

Restaurants (Taverns & Saloons serving proper meals.)
Clarendon, 214-216 Randolph Street.
Commercial Dining Hall, 50 Clark Street.
Gill Edmund, North Wells Street at the corner of North Water Street.
Hatch Heman, North Wells Street near Kinzie Street.
Holway's, 131 Randolph Street.
John Boyle's Oyster Saloon, 8 North Clark Street.
McCardel, 17-19 Dearborn Street.
Maulton's, 192 Randolph Street.
Mason's, 133 Randolph Street.
Restaurant de Paris, 227 Clark Street.
St. Charles, 15-17 North Clark Street.
St. Neblo's Hilliard, Hilliard's block - N.E. corner of Clark and South Water Streets.
Tremont Exchange, 8 Tremont block - S.E. corner of Lake and Dearborn Streets.
Vinton's, 82 Randolph Street.
Washington Coffee House, corner of State and Randolph Streets.

Oyster Depots (Wholesale).
Henry Cooke, 12 Clark Street.
J.B. Doggett, 125 South Water Street. 

1856
The Foster House, Clark and Kinzie, 1856

The Richmond House, corner of South Water Street and Michigan Avenue, opened in the autumn of 1858. The Prince of Wales selected this Hotel as his place of sojourn during his stay in Chicago.

1857
The Adams House was located on the northeast corner of Lake Street and Michigan Avenue. Notably, this hotel stands on the former site of the old Hydraulic Mills, the first flour mills in Chicago, which closed in 1853.
 
"This fine hotel is comparatively a new candidate for favor with the traveling public. It is convenient to business, the Great Central Railroad Depot, and commands a fine view of the Lake and the city's most handsome portion. The proprietor, Mr. W.L. Walter, is an accommodating, courteous gentleman devoted to the comfort and enjoyment of his guests. 

The rooms are large, airy, and well-furnished, and the parlors are fitted in a superb, rich style. The table is equal to any first-class hotel in this or the eastern cities, with well-trained and attentive servants attending to guests' wants and needs. With such a desire for a quiet, well-ordered hotel, we can confidently recommend the Adams House."
                                                                                    Chicago Tribune, November 3, 1858.
The Adams House after the Chicago Fire of October 8, 1871.

ADAMS HOUSE OWNERS 
Built in 1857 by Hugh Maher. William Adams, the initial owner, opened the house in the autumn of 1858.

W.L. and J.I. Pearce, formerly of the Matteson House, purchased and assumed control of the Adams House. In December 1860, W.L. Pearce sold his interest to Schuyler S. Benjamin from the Brevoort House.

Pearce & Benjamin conducted the Adams House until it was destroyed by the Great Chicago Fire in October 1871.

The Boardman House, corner of Clark and Harrison Streets, 1857

The Massasoit House, S.E. corner of Old Central Avenue (Beaubien Court) and East South Water Street, opened in 1857. It was rebuilt after the Chicago fire, opening in 1873.
The Massasoit House






1858
The Clifton House, 45-47 Madison Street at the corner of Clinton Street, "just across the river." Opened in 1858, it was initially called the Clifton House until 1909, when Samuel Gregsten (Windsor European) purchased the hotel and renamed it the Windsor-Clifton Hotel. It was an extremely well-known "European" hotel of the time.
The Clifton House on the N.W. Corner of Wabash and Monroe streets. c1910



1859
Wright's Hotel (later, The Moulton House), 1859

The Orient opened in 1859

1860
The Garden City House (A Temperance Hotel), Madison & Market Sts, 1860. 
Amos Gager Throop (1811-1894) moved to Chicago in 1843. He began a lumber business in partnership with Solomon Wait and John Throop. Throop also bought and sold residential and commercial real estate, owned a dredging company, a brickyard, a coal company, and speculated in stocks. He purchased and managed the Temperance Hotel in Chicago in 1860, the Garden City House. 

Throop founded the Second Universalist Church in Chicago and served in the Illinois House of Representatives from 1863 to 1864. He was a member of the Chicago Common Council and the Chicago Board of Trade.

1862
The Anderson House, 1862

The Central Hotel, 1862

1863
The Sherman House, 139-141 Randolph Street at the N.W. corner of Clark Street, 1863. (See the City Hotel, 1837)

The Burlington Hotel, 1863

1864
Hough House Hotel, Union Stock Yards,1864. The Transit House was renamed and stood on the future Stock Yard Inn site after the 1912 Chicago Union Stock Yard Fire.

The Revere House, on the north side of the Chicago River, at the corner of 417 North Clark and Kinzie Streets, 1864
Exterior view of the Revere House, located at 417 North Clark Street, Chicago.




1865
The St. James House, 92-98 State and Washington Streets, 1865

1866
The Barnes House, corner of Randolph and Canal Streets, 1866

The Metropolitan Hotel, on the S.W. corner of Randolph and Wells Streets, 1866

1870
The Palmer House I,  State and Quincy Streets, 1870
In 1869, Potter Palmer began constructing the Palmer House at the northwest corner of State and Quincy Streets. It had imposing stone fronts, was eight stories high, and contained 225 rooms. W.F.P. Meserve was its first proprietor. The Hotel was opened for the accommodation of guests on Monday, September 26, 1871. Thirteen days later, it was a heap of smoldering ruins.

A second Palmer House was under construction at State and Monroe streets, but both buildings were destroyed by the Fire of 1871. DAMN THE FIRE!
The Palmer House I, (1870-1871)
The Michigan Avenue Hotel was opened in September 1870 by J.F. Pierson and J.B. Shepard. It contained eighty rooms with luxurious furnishings. In a few months, the proprietors assigned Joshua Barrell, another hotelman, who sold the furniture at public auction to Joseph Ulman and Herman Tobias. On October 8, 1871, flames raged on the north side of Congress Street. John B. Drake offered to purchase the Michigan Avenue Hotel at a stipulated price and assume the risk of its destruction. The offer was promptly accepted. 

1871 Chicago Fire Map - Michigan Avenue, Chicago.

The Michigan Avenue Hotel was unscathed, and the building was often pointed out as a moment of the flames' cessation in the South Division. Mr. Drake rechristened the Hotel as the Tremont House and conducted it until he took charge of the Grand Pacific Hotel in 1873 after it was rebuilt.

The Gault House, 45-47 Madison Street, is on the corner of Clinton Street (West of the river).

1871 
The Bigelow House, a handsome edifice of pressed brick, was erected in 1870-71 at the S.W. corner of Dearborn and Adams Streets by Benjamin H. Skinner. On the very day when it was to have been opened, October 8, 1871, it was destroyed by the great conflagration. Mr. Skinner's losses were substantial and led to his financial ruin. 

The Palmer House II, S.E. corner State and Monroe Streets, 1871  


The Chicago Fire burned through the South Loop, West Loop, Cabrini-Green, Loop, Near North, Rush & Division, Gold Coast, and Old Town communities. 1871 CHICAGO FIRE MAP.

The Great Fire unquestionably proved an ultimate advantage to businessmen. The flames had devoured everything in the city's heart, which was to be rebuilt, and its trade, commerce, and manufacturing to be rehabilitated upon a vastly grander scale. Thus, the field was practically left to be trodden anew, and the projectors of new enterprises, who had, until that point, been timorous given the established competition, were inspired with new courage. In other words, plans that had been held in abeyance soon came to fruition.


Other establishments sought temporary quarters. Thus, the Clifton rented the premises at the northwest corner of Washington and Halsted Streets, the Briggs House temporarily reopened on West Madison Street, and so with others.

Rebuilding proceeded at the most excellent possible speed, but knowledge had been dearly bought in the school of experience, and new and improved construction methods were adopted. The result is best evidenced by the fact that since 1871, Chicago has had but one hotel fire, that of the ill-fated "Hotel Langham" in 1885.

The first crucial new house to open its doors (in August 1872) was Kulm's Hotel (afterward the Windsor), on Dearborn Street, a little south of Madison. The impetus was thus given to the "Gault," resulting in that hostelry securing an enviable rank among Chicago hotels. It was built on school land, leased for ninety-nine years by Samuel Gregston, who subsequently became the proprietor.

Next came the Gardner, on Michigan Avenue, at the corner of Congress Street, which opened on October 1, 1872. It was named after H.H. Gardner, who, in connection with Frederick Gould, conducted the house until 1881, when Warren F. Leland became proprietor and changed the name to the Leland Hotel. In 1892, Mr. Leland retired, and a syndicate purchased the property.

The Commercial, on the northwest corner of Lake and Dearborn Street, and the Grand Central, on Market Street, soon followed and later (in 1873) were thrown open the doors of several leading houses, notably the Grand Pacific, the new Palmer, Sherman, Tremont and Briggs.

The proprietors of Briggs reopened at its former location, on the northeast corner of Randolph Street and Fifth Avenue (now Wells Street). At the same time, the Clifton established itself at the intersection of Wabash Avenue and Monroe Street.

A new departure in Chicago hotel keeping was made in January 1885, when H.V. Bemis built and opened the Richelieu Hotel. The house was not significant, occupying the relatively narrow frontage at Nos. 187 and 188 Michigan Avenue, with dimensions of 60 feet by 185 feet. While small, it was undoubtedly the most elegant (and perhaps the most expensive) of Chicago's hostels at that time. Over its entrance stood a marble statue of Jean du Plessis, a famous French sculptor, Cardinal de Richelieu, by Le June. All its equipment was upon a scale of sumptuousness befitting a private mansion whose owner recognized no expense limit. 

Guests were served on the finest china produced by the world's most famous potteries. Food was served on solid gold and silver plates, and the choicest vintages of southern European wines were served in heavy-cut glass. The tables were covered with the finest damask (a reversible patterned fabric of silk, wool, linen, etc., with a pattern formed by weaving, table linen, and upholstery. Guests were encouraged to cultivate their aesthetic tastes by viewing fine art paintings of high quality. The house had lost none of its pristine excellence and occupies today a unique position among the world's caravansaries.

The New Tremont House (Temporary Location After Fire). 
During the interim period following the 1871 fire, the hotel operated as the "New Tremont House" out of a hotel that John Drake had purchased at Michigan Avenue and Congress, having made a bet that the building would escape the fire. (see Michigan Avenue Hotel 1870 for the full story).

Strangers from every portion of America were constantly visiting Chicago, and the last source of her pride was the ability of her hotels, admittedly the best in the West, to accommodate a vast throng of travelers and cater to their needs. The hotel industry had grown, their numbers had multiplied like rabbits, and rich appointments were constantly approaching perfection. When the ashes cooled, scarcely one of the city's hostelries was not in ruins. The hospitality business was practically wiped out in Chicago's business district.

1872
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The "Big Four" post-fire hotels included the Palmer House, the Grand Pacific, the Tremont, and the Sherman House. These buildings adopted the commercial palazzo style of architecture typical to the grand hotel palaces of the east coast. All professed to be fireproof! All boasted grand lobbies, monumental staircases, elegant parlors, cafes, barber shops, bridal suites, dining rooms, ballrooms, promenades, hundreds of private bedrooms and baths, and the latest luxuries. Typical room charges ranged from $3.50 ($85 today) to $7 ($170 today) per day and included three meals. Guests incurred an extra charge for private parlors, room service, fires in private fireplaces, and desserts taken from the diner table to one's room.

Hotels like the Palmer House and the Grand Pacific not only served transient visitors but also appealed to wealthy permanent residents who found living in a hotel a convenient way to set up trouble-free elegant households. Hotels such as these served as models for other hotel construction. Chicago also became a center for the hotel industry, with three of the influential hotel trade journals being publishing in the city.

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The Gault House, situated on Madison Street between Canal and Clinton Streets, was the only hotel of prominence left because it was on the west side of the Chicago River. 

The Grand Pacific Hotel II, Between Clark, LaSalle, Quincy, and Jackson, 1872

The Woodruffcorner of Wabash Avenue and Twenty-First Street, 1872

Kulm's Hotel (afterward The Windsor-Clifton Hotel), at the N.W. corner of Wabash Avenue and Monroe Street, 1872

The Windsor-Clifton Hotel, at the N.W. corner of Wabash Avenue and Monroe Street. Opened in 1872, it was initially called the Clifton House until 1909, when Samuel Gregsten (of Windsor European) purchased the Hotel and later acquired the Clifton Hotel. The Windsor-Clifton Hotel was an extremely well-known "European" hotel.

The Windsor-Clifton Hotel, at the northwest corner of Wabash Avenue and Monroe Street, was built in 1872 and razed in 1927 to make way for the Men's Store of Carson, Pirie, Scott & Company. For many years, it was one of Chicago's leading hotels. After De Jonghe's Hotel and Restaurant, the old Chicago Club is seen West of the Windsor-Clifton. It was initially called the Clifton House till 1909, when it was purchased by Samuel Gregsten (Windsor European).

After the great fire, Mr. Gregsten built the Windsor Hotel on Dearborn Street, between Monroe and Madison. This was the first and, for many years, the only European hotel in Chicago, and it did not have a bar during the time Mr. Gregsten was the owner and proprietor. The Windsor was the home of people from small towns and the country, and was preeminently respectable. No man was ever so strict and severe in managing a hotel as Sam Gregsten, who did not hesitate to throw guests out into the street at midnight and return their money upon finding anything wrong or suspicious.

He later purchased the Clifton Hotel, located on the northwest corner of E. Monroe and S. Wabash streets, and renamed it the Windsor-Clifton. This hotel was an extremely well-known "European" hotel of the time.
The Windsor-Clifton Hotel, formerly the Clifton House, on the N.W. Corner of Wabash and Monroe streets. circa 1910


1873
Palmer's Grand Hotel [III]
S.E. corner State and Monroe Streets, Opened November 8, 1873
Potter Palmer's Grand Hotel, The Palmer House — The Finest and Most Costly Structure in the World at $2.5 Million to Build, $575,000 to Furnish, and Entirely Fireproof. Located at State and Monroe Streets and Wabash Avenue. Circa 1873.









The Palmer House III, 1888











1874
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The "Little Big Fire" on July 14, 1874, burnt most of the area between Van Buren Street on the north, Michigan Avenue to the East, 12th Street (renamed Roosevelt Road in 1919) on the south, and Clark Street to the west.  (Don't miss the 'after-math' analysis discussing the reshaping of some of Chicago's neighborhoods in my "Little Big Fire" article.

The Gardner House, Leiland Hotel, The Stratford, Michigan Avenue, and Jackson, 1874

Burky & Milan, 154-156 South Clark Street (today 20-22 South Clark Street) 1874

1875
The Great Central Hotel, S.W. Corner Market and Washington Streets, 1875

1879
The Gault House, 39-41 West Madison Avenue and Market (today 30 West Madison) 1879

1885
The Hotel Langham, corner of Adams Street and Wabash Avenue, 1885

The Leland Hotel, S.W. corner Michigan Avenue and Jackson Boulevard, 1885


1890
The Blackstone, Michigan Avenue, and East Balbo, 1890

1881
The Virginia Hotel, 78 Rush Street at the corner of Ohio Street, Chicago, 1891-1925. It was one of the world's largest and most beautiful privately owned family hotels. The building is a splendid specimen of modern hotel architecture. This is a high-class house in every sense. 
Virginia Hotel, Main Entrance, circa 1892.



Opening just a couple of years before the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition, the 400-room hotel was advertised as "an absolutely fireproof building and a finished hotel second to no other." The hotel featured ornate granite interiors decorated with marble statues, a separate "gentlemen's smoking room," a ladies' dining room," and a room of boilers and dynamos to offer the latest technology: electric lights.
The Virginia Hotel, Chicago, 1893.



1892
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1892 Chicago Telephone Directory; Popular Hotels
Auditorium Hotel, Wabash Avenue, and Congress
Clifton House, 159 and 161 Wabash Avenue
Columbia Hotel, N.W. corner of 31st Street and State Streets
Commercial Hotel, Lake and Dearborn
Fitzgerald Hotel, Rose Hill, IL. [Bowmanville Neighborhood today]
Fredericks, (Henry) House, 4300 South Ashland Avenue
Gault House, 39 West Madison
Glen Ellyn Hotel, 44 Dearborn
Gore & Heffron, 266 Clark Street
Grand Pacific Hotel, Clark and Jackson
Grand Palace Hotel. Clark and Indiana
Hotel Brevoort, 143-145 Madison
Hotel Grace, 243 South Clark Street
Hotel Metropole, S.W. corner of 23rd Street and Michigan Avenue
Hotel Richelieu, 187 Michigan Avenue
Hotel Wellington, Wabash Avenue, and Jackson
Hotel Woodruff, 2101 South Wabash Avenue
Hotel Worth [H. W.], 435 Washington Boulevard
Kuhn's Hotel, 165-169 Clark Street
Leland Hotel, Michigan Avenue, and Jackson.
Palmer House, State Street, and Monroe
Revere House, 417 North Clark Street at Kinzie
Saratoga Hotel, 155-157 Dearborn
Southern Hotel, Wabash Avenue and 22nd Street
The Albany, 2400 [S.] Wabash Avenue
The Hyde Park, S.W. corner of 51st Street and Lake Avenue
The Yorkshire, 1837 South Michigan Avenue
Tremont House, Lake and Dearborn
Virginia Hotel, Rush and Ohio Streets

1893
The Auditorium Hotel, N.W. corner Michigan Avenue & Congress Boulevard. 1893.

The Auditorium Hotel's history is connected to the (haunted?) Congress Plaza Hotel opened in 1893 as an annex to the Auditorium Building. It was initially called the Auditorium Annex when it first opened to accommodate visitors to the World's Columbian Exposition. It featured an underground marble passageway called "Peacock Alley," which connected it to the Auditorium Hotel. By 1908, the name changed from the Auditorium Annex to the Congress Hotel to differentiate it from the Auditorium Hotel.
 
Ferdinand Peck, a Chicago businessman, incorporated the Chicago Auditorium Association in December 1886 to develop what he wanted to be the world's largest, grandest, most expensive theater that would rival such institutions as the Metropolitan Opera House in New York City. He was said to have wanted to make high culture accessible to the working classes of Chicago.

The Auditorium Building in Chicago is one of the most renowned designs by Louis Sullivan and Dankmar Adler. Completed in 1889, the building is situated at the northwest corner of South Michigan Avenue and Congress Parkway (now known as Ida B. Wells Drive). The building was designed as a multi-use complex, featuring offices, a theater, and a hotel. Frank Lloyd Wright was employed as a draftsman as a young apprentice and may have contributed to this design.

Housed in the building around the central space was a 1890 addition of 136 offices and a 400-room hotel, whose purpose was to generate much revenue to support the opera. While the Auditorium Building was not intended as a commercial building, Peck wanted it to be self-sufficient. Revenue from the offices and hotel was meant to make ticket prices reasonable. In reality, the hotel and office block became unprofitable within a few years.

The building was added to the National Register of Historic Places on April 17, 1970. It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1975 and was designated a Chicago Landmark on September 15, 1976. In addition, it is a historic district contributing property for the Chicago Landmark Historic Michigan Boulevard District. Since 1947, the Auditorium Building has been part of Roosevelt University.



1897
The Silversmith Hotel, Wabash Avenue and Madison Street (today, 10 South Wabash),1897. The Silversmith Hotel was a boutique hotel in Chicago's Jewelers Row District of the Loop. It occupies the historic 10-story Silversmith Building, designed by Peter J. Weber of the architectural firm D.H. Burnham and Company, which opened in 1897. The building's architecture reflects the transition from Romanesque Revival architecture to Chicago school architecture. The Silversmith Building was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1997 and became a member of the National Register of Historic Places in 2016.

1900
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At the turn of the century, restaurants began to group together in Chicago's Loop (downtown). The reason is not hard to understand. Groups of the same kind of restaurants, i.e., Cafeterias, attracted flocks of lunch customers who knew they were likely to find something they wanted to eat and get quick lunch-time service.  

Chain restaurants were becoming more common, and lesser-known restaurants were eager to locate near the successful eating establishments to catch their overflow. It was also used as a marketing tool. City officials nicknamed streets of similar-style restaurants as a "row" to help boost the local economy.
    • Restaurant Row: Randolph Street, where there were 39 busy, full-service restaurants within a six-block stretch.
    • Cafeteria Row: Wabash Avenue had the largest number of self-service restaurants in the world. 
    • Toothpick Row: Clark Street had lots of lunchroom businesses.
My Digital Research Library of Illinois History Journal; Restaurants & Foods

1906
The New Hotel Brevoort was owned by Hannah & Hogg. It was a 14-story building located at 120 West Madison Street, between Clark and LaSalle Streets. Billed as "Absolutely Fireproof" when it opened in 1906. 

The entrance featured a decorative vaulted ceiling, hanging glass-paned light fixtures, and a circular window over the front entryway.

The Lobby of the Hotel Brevoort was highlighted by a second-floor mezzanine level with a beautifully curved railing. The decor featured maroon marble around fluted white and gold square columns, as well as decorative tile floors. A stairway leads up to the mezzanine level. Heavy leather chairs and dark green furniture, accented with maroon velvet, were arranged around a maroon Oriental rug. The ceiling was painted in deep blues and purples.

The Hotel Brevoort Buffet had one of the most ornate bars in Chicago. This unique round bar, featuring a glass rail and mirrored columns, was decorated with elaborate tile patterns and a plaster rotunda. A chandelier and circular shelves hung in the middle. Deep maroons, cream, rose, green, and gold colors created an elegant look.

The Hotel Brevoort enhanced its ornate interior with the addition of the Rainbow Room Dining Room, featuring large wall-size murals. A stairway leads down to the Rainbow Room Restaurant. The colorful wall murals depicted "Hindu Pilgrims Preparing the Evening Meal on the Banks of the Ganges." The dining area featured tile floors and maroon marble walls following the Lobby and Bar style. A novel for its time, the room was cooled with electric fans perched above a room divider.

The building's original facade was clad in glass and converted into an office building in 1953.

Today, the building is a steel and glass, 30-story tower with a Republic Bank in its lobby.
The New Hotel Brevoort, 120 W. Madison Street, was billed as "Absolutely Fireproof."
1926
The Palmer House IV, S.E. corner State and Monroe Streets, 1926. 
Concluding the Palmer House saga.

Although the third Palmer House Hotel had been carefully maintained and remained profitable throughout its existence. By 1919, it was clear to the Palmer Estate that Chicago could support a much larger hotel. 

The construction of the new Palmer House Hotel took place in stages, allowing the hotel business to continue operating in the old building. The first stage built was the eastern portion of the new building, east of the existing hotel building along Monroe and Wabash. 

Then, after this new section was open to business, the old Hotel was razed to construct the rest of the new structure. The new building, 25 stories, was completed in 1927. In 1945, Conrad Hilton purchased the Palmer House and continues to own it today.

Copyright © 2022 Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. All rights reserved.

Friday, July 22, 2022

The World’s Fair that Ignored More than Half the World.

The spectacle of the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893 was unrivaled in its time. But it hardly represented the "world" of Women and Negroes.

Between May and October of 1893, the nation and the world flocked to the exposition, often called the Chicago World's Fair or the "White City," for the white stucco that gave the whole exposition a marmoreal gleam. More than 27 million people attended during a worldwide financial depression named the 'Panic of 1893' — which was nearly one-half the population of the United States at that time. This was no private Coachella or Aspen Institute—Congress appropriated the initial funding, and the fair's governing board was appointed by the president.
The Lady Managers were as powerless as their name suggests and couldn't get women's accomplishments included in any exhibits outside of the Woman's Building.
But neither women nor Negroes were part of the project's planning stages, nor were they allowed to play any prominent roles in the substance of the exposition, write Elliott Rudwick and August Meier. White women, Negro men and women all lobbied the president for seats on the governing board, jobs, and more than token representation in the fair, to no avail. They didn't have much leverage: In 1893, white men held almost all political power everywhere. No women served in Congress, and only in Wyoming (population 62,555) could women vote in federal elections. Reconstruction was long over; Negro men in the South could barely vote, and only one Negro man served in Congress.

But the World's Fair was too big to ignore.

Rather than include the full range of women's ingenuity, creativity, and hard work throughout the fair, the all-male Board of Governors approved "The Woman's Building" as a substitute and a "Board of Lady Managers" as a consolation prize for denying women even one seat on the board. As Gail Bederman explains, the Lady Managers were as powerless as their name suggests and couldn't get women's accomplishments included outside the Woman's Building.

Unfortunately, white women's limited role in the fair didn't make them sympathetic to the near-total exclusion of Negro women and men. Historian Ann Massa writes that when Negro women requested a seat among the 115 Lady Managers, the white women refused them. The white women complained that they couldn't pick from several groups of Negro women activists and thus would seat no one. They ultimately offered an unpaid secretarial role to Fannie Barrier Williams—a college graduate and accomplished educator. She was disgusted but took it because it was literally the only professional role a Negro woman would fill at the exposition. (The enterprise employed tens of thousands of people.)

In fact, Negro accomplishments weren't featured in the White City at all. Thirty years after the Emancipation Proclamation, the remarkable postbellum achievements of slavery's survivors were all but erased from the story of America. Among 65,000 exhibits, only a few tokens of Negro art and invention were grudgingly included, among them sculptor Edmonia Lewis's busts of Phillis Wheatley and Hiawatha. Even Frederick Douglass—the most famous Negro man in America—spoke publicly only on "Negro Day," a one-time marketing gimmick on August 25th targeting Negro fairgoers and anybody interested.

Amid more than 300 women speakers at the fair, only six Negro women—including the veteran activist Frances Ellen Watkins Harper and scholar Anna Julia Cooper—were given speaking spots throughout the summer, including during a week-long World Congress of Representative Women.
Ida B. Wells


Muckraking journalist Ida B. Wells had no platform at the fair, so she made her own. She had just returned from a successful British-speaking tour that helped her launch her anti-lynching crusade. She was furious about the exclusion of Negro accomplishments from a fair meant to showcase American exceptionalism. What better demonstration of America's uniqueness, Wells asked, than to exhibit "the progress made by the race in 25 years of freedom as against 250 years of slavery?"

ADDITIONAL READING:




Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Chicago's Urban Renewal into the 1960s.

Following World War II and continuing into the late 1960s, "urban renewal" referred primarily to public efforts to revitalize aging and decaying inner cities, although some suburban communities undertook such projects as well. Including massive demolition, slum clearance, and rehabilitation, urban renewal proceeded initially from local and state legislation, which in Illinois included the Neighborhood Redevelopment Corporation Act of 1941 (amended in 1953), the Blighted Areas Redevelopment Act of 1947 (which allowed for clearing land for non-residential uses, including highways), the Relocation Act of 1947, and the Urban Community Conservation Act of 1953. 

The earliest emphasis was placed on slum clearance or "redevelopment," followed by a focused effort to conserve 'threatened' but not yet deteriorated neighborhoods. Significant clearing of homes would occur with the 1955 Amendment to the Blighted Areas Redevelopment Act of 1947. It allowed for clearing land for non-residential uses, including highways.

The new legislation had three primary functions. First, it expanded the city's power of eminent domain and enabled it to seize property for the new "public purposes" of slum clearance or prevention. Second, it pioneered the "write-down" formula, which permitted the city to convey such property to private developers at its significantly reduced "use" value after the municipality subsidized its purchase and preparation. Last, the state provided assistance in relocating site residents—an absolute necessity in a time of severe housing shortages to enable the clearance of crowded, inner-city sites. The federal Housing Acts of 1949 and 1954, and their later amendments, mirrored the Illinois initiatives, providing a national framework and greater financial resources for the renewal effort. The clear intent was to offer public assistance to the private sector in the hope of heading off an urban crisis.

As early as 1943, a Chicago Plan Commission survey had found 242,000 substandard housing units within a 23-square-mile zone of "blight," with the most desperate conditions extending in a sweeping arc south and west of the Loop. Another 100,000 such units were scattered across Chicago in "non-blighted" areas. Such conditions, combined with the decentralizing pull of the burgeoning suburbs, threatened to ravage the city's tax base, deplete the stock of middle-class consumers, and raise the cost of basic city services such as police and firefighting. Worried about rising taxes, declining property values, and their traditional source of shoppers and workers, Loop interests such as Marshall Field & Co. and the Chicago Title and Trust Company moved swiftly to design plans to enhance downtown. Within weeks of his 1947 inauguration, Mayor Martin H. Kennelly received a housing program and legislative package that had gestated (develop over a long period) in Loop boardrooms.

Major institutional interests on the South Side, such as the Illinois Institute of Technology (IIT) and Michael Reese Hospital, also faced the daunting prospect of surviving within rapidly deteriorating neighborhoods. Even before World War II, they had recommitted themselves to the area, and, in 1946, they joined other local interests to create the South Side Planning Board (SSPB). Staking out a planning interest of seven square miles from Cermak Road south to 47th Street and from Michigan Avenue west to the Pennsylvania Railroad, their efforts—along with those of their Loop counterparts—enticed the New York Life Insurance Company to finance the Lake Meadows development. Michael Reese Hospital soon followed with its own Prairie Shores complex; IIT expanded its campus from 7 to 110 acres; Mercy Hospital decided to remain and grow in the area; and South Commons was developed as a middle-income housing enclave.
The population of Washington Park peaked at around 56,000 in 1950. There were significant overcrowding issues, but without other affordable housing options available because of racist policies and practices, many Negro residents on the South Side were forced into unsafe, egregiously overcrowded housing spaces.
The University of Chicago took the initiative in the urban renewal of Hyde Park, as it did with the conception and enactment of the Illinois Urban Community Conservation Act of 1953, a law precisely tailored to the institution's needs. Proceeding in stages throughout the 1950s under earlier redevelopment acts and through the South East Chicago Commission (SECC), the university responded forcefully to a racial transition accelerated by clearance projects to its north. The city approved a general renewal plan for Hyde Park– Kenwood in 1958 after the SECC had removed the worst pockets of "blight" and prevented precipitous "white flight." By 1970, the university and various public agencies had invested some $100 million in the area—an amount augmented by an additional $300 million in private funds.
The Urban Renewal program in Hyde Park displaces businesses and residents.


The largest renewal site north of the Loop provided space for Carl Sandburg Village between Division Street and North Avenue and, roughly, Clark and LaSalle. Most of the displaced residents were unmarried white renters without deep roots in the neighborhood. Demolition proceeded in 1960–61, with Arthur Rubloff & Co. beginning construction the next year. At its completion in 1969, the combination of high-rise towers and townhouses encompassed 3,166 units. At the same time, on the Near West Side, Mayor Richard J. Daley tried to protect the Loop, fight decentralization, and enhance Chicago's image by building a campus of the University of Illinois in the Harrison-Halsted area. Sparking considerable grassroots protest, the project displaced thousands of individuals and hundreds of businesses in an old, largely Italian community before it opened in 1965.

Concern with protecting and enhancing Chicago's core also generated a construction boom within the Loop itself. Beginning with the opening of the Prudential building in 1957, a 20-year burst of activity nearly doubled downtown office space; the federal government, Cook County, and the city of Chicago each added massive administrative centers.

The neighborhoods, however, experienced a different kind of transformation. While whites were among those uprooted in Hyde Park and on the North and West Sides, urban renewal in this context too often meant, as contemporaries noted, "Negro removal." Between 1948 and 1963 alone, some 50,000 families (averaging 3.3 members) and 18,000 individuals were displaced. Old neighborhoods disappeared, and new ones faced increasing racial pressures. Although some urban renewal sites were redeveloped for institutional expansion or middle-class housing, displaced African Americans received little benefit from the program. The city tried to contain the expansion of Blacks' living space, in part, by using densely packed, centrally located high-rise public housing. Segregation became public policy, as the courts acknowledged in deciding the 1966 suit brought by Chicago Housing Authority (CHA) resident Dorothy Gautreaux. In 1969, federal district court Judge Richard Austin found that 99 percent of the residents of CHA family housing were Black and that 99.5 percent of such units were confined to Black or racially changing areas. Rather than solve the urban crisis, urban renewal had set the stage for its next phase.

By Arnold R. Hirsch
Edited by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Sunday, July 17, 2022

An illustration looking due west on the Chicago River in 1831.

An illustration looking due west on the Chicago River in 1831.


The first building on the left is the Post Office of John S.C. Hogan, which stood near the corner of Lake and Market Sts. There was only one delivery a week coming from Niles, Michigan, which came from the East. 

The next building was the Sauganash Tavern which stood on the corner of Lake and Market Streets and was run by Mark Beaubien

In the distance, the small tip of a building was that of Jesse Walker, which was used as a church, a school, and a residence. 

The building at the point where the north and south branches meet was the Wolf Point Tavern, but later, in 1833, it was renamed the Travelers Home by Chester Ingersoll. 

Note the footbridge over the north branch.

To the right and north at the forks stood the Miller House, and it is said it was in part built by Alexander Robinson in 1820. In 1829, the proprietors were Samuel Miller and Archibald Clybourn, and in 1832 it was occupied as a store by P.F.W. Peck while his new frame store was under construction.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 

Saturday, July 16, 2022

How and When did Chicago get the moniker "The Windy City?"

Fort Dearborn and the Chicago River.


Chicago's nickname, "The Windy City,” is usually attributed to an editorial by Charles A. Dana in the New York Sun, written in 1889 or 1890 when Chicago and New York were competing to host the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition. Dana reportedly took Chicago's blustering politicians to task for excessive boasting about the merits of their city. The power of the name lies in the metaphorical use of “windy” for “talkative” or “boastful.” Chicago politicians early became famous for long-windedness, and the Midwestern metropolis's central location as a host city for political conventions helped cement the association of Chicago with loquacious politicians, thus underlying the nickname with double meaning. But this story, however often repeated, is a myth!

Etymologist (the study of the origin of words) Barry Popik was the first to show that "Windy City" as a sobriquet (nickname) for Chicago predated the alleged editorial by many years. Popik traced the origin of the term to 1876 in Cincinnati, where a story in the Cincinnati Enquirer for May of that year reported on the Cincinnati Red Stockings' trip to Chicago to play baseball in the "Windy City." 

Since Popik's first report, Fred Shapiro has provided an even earlier citation. The Daily Cleveland Herald of June 4, 1870, reported, "CLEVELAND vs. CHICAGO. The Great Game between the Forest City and Chicago Clubs — the Windy City Wins by a Score of 15 to 9 — a Hotly Contested Game.” 

A decade earlier, in its July 4, 1860, issue, the Milwaukee Daily Sentinel contained the following: "We are proud of Milwaukee because she is not overrun with a lazy police force as is Chicago — because her morals are better, her criminals fewer, her credit better, and her taxes lighter in proportion to her valuation than Chicago, the windy city of the West."

As it turns out, the term 
"Windy City" referring to Chicago came about through baseball's sports writers.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Sunday, June 26, 2022

CHICAGO: The Hotel Langham Destroyed by Fire on Saturday Evening, March 21, 1885.

At 8:00 o'clock in the evening of March 21, 1885, fourteen fire engines poured water on the Hotel Langham, at the corner of Adams Street and Wabash Avenue, which was engulfed in flames. The fire originated in one of the tower rooms. At the time, the house's restaurant contained about 100 guests at dinner, and as many more were in their rooms. The people in the restaurant had no problem getting out, but several persons in the upper rooms had very narrow escapes.

The fire spread uncommonly, and flames burst through the roof before a second alarm was rung. A general alarm was given half an hour after the broke out, but all the engines which could be brought couldn't get the fire under control. 

Mrs. Belknap, an elderly lady, committed suicide by jumping from the fourth story and landing in the alley. Subsequently, a cry was raised that the walls were falling and that Bullwinkle's Fire Insurance patrolmen were inside the building. A portion of the south wall was seen to totter, and it came down with a crash. 
Patrolman John Carroll Walsh
Two Bullwinkle's Fire Insurance patrol members barely escaped the tumbling bricks and falling timbers. Two others were pinned fast but, after strenuous efforts, were finally extricated. The legs of both men were severely bruised. Patrolmen Edward Jones, 30, and John C. Walsh, 32, are believed to have suffocated beneath the walls. Walsh left a widow and three very young children.

Policeman Marks saw two domestics at one of the second-story windows after it was supposed all the guests had been rescued. He rushed up a burning staircase and a few moments later appeared, dragging out both women, who had been rendered unconscious by smoke inhalation.

The firemen never ceased their efforts to rescue the two missing patrolmen. In about four hours, they were found in the basement of the building next to the hotel. They were buried under broken flooring and fragments of the fallen wall. They were taken out alive and survived their injuries.

The escape of Mrs. J.A. Murray and the child was almost miraculous. The lady occupied a room on the fifth floor and was unaware of the danger until it was too late to attempt to descend the stairway. She reached the fire escape but at each floor found the hole in the grating too small to admit the passage of herself and her infant. Therefore she was compelled four times, with the flames swirling around her, to lay her baby on the platform, lower herself over the edge, and reach up for the baby. Mrs. Murray reached the ground without assistance and, a quarter of an hour afterward, had wholly recovered from the effects of her traumatic experience. 

The hotel was a total loss and was erected immediately after the great fire. While substantial looking on the outside, it had been called a fire trap. It was formerly known as the Burdick House, the Crawford, and finally, the Hotel Langham.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Saturday, June 25, 2022

Negro owned Chicago repair and gunsmith shop, 1899.

The only Negro owned gunsmith shop in the U.S., in 1899, was located at 2933 South State Street, Chicago, Illinois.
The Negro owner is in front of the counter.
Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Mathon's Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Waukegan, Illinois.

Mathon's Seafood Restaurant was at 6 East Clayton Street in Waukegan, Illinois, at Lake Michigan's shoreline. Mathon's, owned by Mathon Kyritsis, was the only restaurant in Illinois operating their own fishing boats, gathering fresh fish daily for their restaurant. Personally, I loved the restaurant until the last couple of years before they closed. My favorite dishes were the fresh catch of the day, cooked on wood planks.

Fishing is a sport that many residents of Waukegan enjoy at the mile long pier. In it's heyday many residents would arrive in the early mornings of July and August to fish for perch, which were plentiful and always a success at local Friday fish fries.


Many people would see Mathon Kyritsis and his tug boat leave the harbor (4 to 5 am) for the early catch of the day. 


The fresh-caught fish was served at Mathon's restaurant, a block away from the lakefront next to a bait shop and the coal yards which were profitable ventures in their day.


The rail would bring people from other Lakeshore communities along the Sheridan road line to enjoy the fare at Mathon's restaurant. Always packed on Fridays. Residents of the harbor town, and persons that are not native Waukegans, have reported seeing ''the Mathon tugboat'' leaving the harbor in the early mornings and also seen by other boating and fishing enthusiasts.

The name of the tug is visible on the boat, white on a dark background. The tugboat whistle can be heard as the tug puts out to the lake waters to fish. When it vanishes quickly, some boaters and fishermen have reported it's quick disappearance to the local police, thinking that something had happened to the tug, since it vanishes so quickly. Sightings have been reported to the coast guard and local police, several times, over the years.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Herm's Palace vs. Big Herm's, Hot Dog Joints in Skokie, IL.

Herman Gelfond owned both Big Herm's and Big Herm's East (later changed to Herm's Palace, then Herm's Hot Dog Palace), across the street from each other, on Dempster Street, Skokie, Illinois. Herman died at 64 years old in 1986.


In 1974, Rick and Marla Shane bought Herm's Palace from the original owner. Since then, they have passed the daily duties of running the family business onto their sons, Scott and Craig Gelfond.

Is it a myth about the Gelfond brothers being in a feud causing them to split?

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Big Herm's vs. Herm's Palace, Hot Dog Joints in Skokie, IL.

Herman Gelfond owned both Big Herm's and Big Herm's East (later changed to Herm's Palace, then Herm's Hot Dog Palace), across the street from each other, on Dempster Street, Skokie, Illinois. Herman died at 64 years old in 1986.
In 1974, Rick and Marla Shane bought Herm's Palace from the original owner. Since then, they have passed the daily duties of running the family business onto their sons, Scott and Craig Gelfond.

Is it a myth about the Gelfond brothers being in a feud causing them to split?

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Wednesday, June 15, 2022

President Lincoln signed Proclamation 102; a call for help in protecting Washington, D.C., on June 15, 1863.

Throughout June 1863, Confederate General Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia was on the move. He had pulled his army from its position along the Rappahannock River around Fredericksburg, Virginia, and set out on the road to Pennsylvania. Lee and the Confederate leadership decided to try a second invasion of the North to take pressure off Virginia and to seize the initiative against the Army of the Potomac. The first invasion was on September 17, 1862, but failed when the Federals fought Lee’s army to a standstill at the ‘Battle of Antietam’ aka ‘The battle of Sharpsburg’ in Maryland.

Lee later divided his army and sent the regiments toward the Shenandoah Valley, using the Blue Ridge Mountains as a screen. After the Confederates took Winchester, Virginia, on June 14, they were situated on the Potomac River, seemingly in a position to move on Washington, D.C. Lincoln did not know it, but Lee had no intention of attacking Washington. Lincoln knew that the Rebel army was moving en masse and that Union troops could not be sure about the Confederates’ location.

On June 15, Lincoln made an emergency call for 100,000 troops from the state militias of Pennsylvania, Maryland, Ohio, and West Virginia. Although the troops were not needed, and the call could not be fulfilled in such a short time, it indicated how little the Union authorities knew of Lee’s movements and how vulnerable they thought the Federal capital was.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.



By the President of the United States of America
A Proclamation

Whereas the armed insurrectionary combinations now existing in several of the States are threatening to make inroads into the States of Maryland, West Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Ohio, requiring immediately an additional military force for the service of the United States:

Now, therefore, I, Abraham Lincoln, President of the United States and Commander in Chief of the Army and Navy thereof and of the militia of the several States when called into actual service, do hereby call into the service of the United States 100,000 militia from the States following, namely: From the State of Maryland, 10,000; from the State of Pennsylvania, 50,000; from the State of Ohio, 30,000; from the State of West Virginia, 10,000—to be mustered into the service of the United States forthwith and to serve for the period of six months from the date of such muster into said service, unless sooner discharged; to be mustered in as infantry, artillery, and cavalry, in proportions which will be made known through the War Department, which Department will also designate the several places of rendezvous. These militias are to be organized according to the rules and regulations of the volunteer service and such orders as may hereafter be issued. The States aforesaid will be respectively credited under the enrollment act for the militia services rendered under this proclamation.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of the United States to be affixed.

Done at the city of Washington, this 15th day of June, A. D. 1863, and of the Independence of the United States.

By the President:


Monday, June 6, 2022

John R. Hughes, Murder Victim - Podcast

Tackling the 1976 Chicago murder of John R. Hughes. The cold case should have been an easy case to solve — but instead, it became a puzzle that baffled authorities for decades.

There was a dust-up between Italian and Irish teens at a party. Nothing unusual about that, in those neighborhoods of old feuds. “The Italians and the Irish. Bridgeport and Canaryville. Oil and water. It went back as far as anyone could recall,” Jeff Coen, a Tribune editor writes. “It was the same with their fathers and in prior generations.”

These feuds usually erupted in the form of fisticuffs but not on this night, as some from a house party gathered in a neighborhood park to cool off. A green car cruised by and a shot was fired. It hit a 17-year-old named John R. Hughes, the “tall, good-looking football player and member of the student council. … He had college on his mind. He was going places.”

The place he went that night, the last place he would ever go, was Mercy Hospital, where he was pronounced dead at 1:20 am on May 15, 1976.

This one-hour audio story is a fascinating look into this cold case. I'm confident you'll enjoy this.

Edited by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Monday, May 30, 2022

A 1905 Advertisement; Lincoln Park Hospital, 500 La Salle Avenue, Chicago, Ill.

Lincoln Park Hospital, located at 500 La Salle Avenue (1332 North La Salle Street today), three blocks south of Lincoln Park, is the finest residence part of the North Side of Chicago, and in its construction, equipment, furnishings, and sanitary environment is unexcelled. The building is a four-story brick and stone structure, rebuilt for its present use, after years of hospital experience, and has a capacity of fifty beds for patients.
Lincoln Park Hospital, 500 La Salle Avenue, Chicago, Ill. 1905
Long Distance Telephone, North 1934


The most exacting surgical cleanliness is maintained at all times and through all parts of the house. The rooms are newly finished, and the building is completely detached on all sides, giving perfect light and ventilation in every room. A new steam plant has been installed. All floors are hardwood, and there are baths on every floor with modern plumbing throughout. Since being completed, the hospital has been inspected by a large number of professional and non-professional men and women, and their criticisms have been those of approval and approbation. Any physician may bring cases here, have full charge of his patients, and prescribe his own treatment.

RATE—Private rooms with general nursing $15, $20, $25, $30, $35 ($1,150 today) per week. Wards with general nursing $8, $15 per week. Special nurse $15 per week. Nurse for cases outside the Hospital graduates $25 per week. The Hospital has equipped an X-Ray and Electro-therapeutical laboratory to aid physicians and surgeons who patronize the Hospital in making or confirming their diagnoses of doubtful cases.

B. S. Henderson, M.D., President
J. A. Raithel, M.D., Sec. and Treas.

Chicago Medical Directory, 1905 Advertisement.

Wednesday, May 18, 2022

The Bagel Nosh Deli unlox their new restaurant in Chicago's Rush Street area. (1978-1984)

On a Personal Note: From Wally's to Rush Street.

When the Bagel Nosh first opened, I was still working part-time evenings at Wally's Deli in the Milk Pail in Lincolnwood. I was in high school, juggling classes and shifts, learning the ropes of deli life one sandwich at a time. One day, Al Marcus—who knew Wally—called to ask if he knew anyone looking for a weekend gig. Wally turned to me: "How'd you like a Saturday and Sunday breakfast and lunch job at a new place on Rush Street? Cash under the table. Free meals too.

The Bagel Nosh began in New York City in 1976.

Al Marcus and Sanford Adams co-owned the franchise rights for Illinois and opened the company's 41st restaurant in 1978 at 1135 North State Street in Chicago. They hoped to woo the Rush Street drinking crowd and affluent residents of Chicago's wealthy Gold Coast neighborhood.
1135 North State Street, in the Gold Coast neighborhood of the Near North Side community of Chicago.


The interior was chic-rustic, featuring large circular windows (replaced), thick, rough-cut wood walls, bentwood chairs, industrial steel light fixtures, butcher block tables, and plenty of live hanging plants. A very calming environment, with the entire 2nd floor available for additional seating to accommodate approximately 60 people. 

They did a bang-up take-out business. The line never stopped, or so it seemed. Customers would line up northbound on State Street, then the line would turn east on Elm Street. Once inside, customers waited in a cafeteria line, finally being confronted with a ceiling-high wall-mounted menu that would turn old-time deli owners pickle-green with envy.

The "water" bagels were made behind a glass wall next to a deli counter that customers passed while in line, making the entire area viewable. The bagels were made with high-gluten flour. The dough was formed into its doughnut shape by machine, refrigerated until needed, boiled for 30 seconds, and then baked in batches of 35 for 17 minutes at 500° F. The result was a larger, chewier Bagel with a crunchy outside.

Bagels (plain, salt, onion, poppy seed, sesame seed, garlic, cinnamon raisin, pumpernickel, and rye) at 15¢; lox or Nova, and smoked sturgeon sandwich at $3.25; corned beef, roast beef, hot pastrami, tongue, brisket, and turkey sandwiches on your choice of bagel at $2.45; cream cheese, chive cream cheese, vegetable cream cheese, lox cream cheese, whitefish salad, shrimp salad, baked salmon salad, chopped liver, gefilte fish, herring in wine sauce with onions, potato knishes, cheese blintzes, and 'homemade chicken soup' (Yiddish: khoummeyd hindl zup) ...

I was interested in finding out how much a 15¢ bagel in 1978 would cost now. The Inflation Calculator says 15¢ in 1978 is 75¢ today (2025). So I called three popular Delis for the cost of one bagel:
    • New York Bagel & Bialy in Lincolnwood charges $1.75 per bagel.
    • Manny's Cafeteria & Delicatessen in Chicago charges $2.00 per bagel.
    • The Bagel Restaurant and Deli in Chicago charges $2.15 per bagel.
The lox, Nova lox, and Belly lox (about 1/4 to 1 lb. of belly lox per salmon, depending upon the size and the salmon species) were premium quality, flown in weekly from an old fish house in Philadelphia. The same fish house provided smoked fish, including sturgeon, sable, chubs, and whitefish.


The food was cooked in view of the customers on one 24-foot, 12-burner flat-top grill and one 4-foot, 4-burner flat-top grill. One person could handle about 15 egg orders on the 24-foot grill at a time, while the smaller grill was used for lunch items. It was like a fast-paced cooking show with people watching you cook over your shoulder. 


Al Marcus explained to me why they placed the grills at the front of the restaurant, as Bagel Nosh does in New York. The grill would be the last point before the customer pays, ensuring they receive the hottest food before finding a table or taking it to go. He also quoted Steak' n Shake, whose famous slogan is "In Sight, It Must Be Right," from the 1930s.

In the first week, thousands of noshers consumed or bought 200 pounds of lox and 150 pounds of hand-sliced lox. 
Most deli countermen never got the hang of slicing lox this thin. Since lox is sold by weight, slicing it paper-thin would nearly guarantee a customer's return.


Also sold the first week was 300 pounds of corned beef, 130 pounds of pastrami and hot pastrami, 90 pounds of roast beef, 100 pounds of chopped liver, 500 pounds of coleslaw, 600 pounds of cream cheeses, 1,500 pickles, and 16,000 bagels, which were made in the traditional method of boiling first, then baking them.
Lox, Egg, and Onion Omelet.
The best breakfast seller was a 3-egg Lox and Onion omelet or scramble, served with a bagel and cream cheese, or a Lox and cream cheese bagel sandwich during the weekend late-night hours.

A second Bagel Nosh opened at Plaza Del Prado at Willow and Pfingsten roads in Glenview, Illinois.

ON A PERSONAL NOTE
When Bagel Nosh opened, I was working part-time at Wally's Deli in the Milk Pail in Lincolnwood, Illinois, during evenings in High School. Al Marcus knew Wally and called him to see if he knew someone who wanted a part-time, 16-hour, weekend job. Wally asked me if I'd like a Saturday and Sunday breakfast and lunch job at the Bagel Nosh, where I'd be paid under the table and receive free meals while working. 

I said yes.

Initially, the Bagel Nosh opened at 6 a.m. on Fridays. But the Rush Street crowds didn't sleep, and neither did we. Within weeks, the hours shifted: the store was now open at 5 a.m. Friday and closed at 10 p.m. on Sunday. Nonstop Service. The line wrapped around the block, and the grill never cooled.

After a couple of weekends, they taught me how to use the grill. It took about 150 eggs, but I finally nailed it—cracking four eggs at once with two hands, straight onto the flat-top. I learned to manage orders, maintain the rhythm, and navigate the chaos. The grill was 24 feet long, and I used every inch of it. Onions and potatoes cooked low and slow at either end, filling the air with that unmistakable aroma that drifted out to the street and pulled people in.

One day, one of the countermen handed me a raw cinnamon raisin bagel and said,

"Neil, drop this into the deep fryer for about four minutes until it's medium-deep brown. Flip it, cook the other side the same, then let it drain and cool for a minute."

I buttered mine.

Wow. It was phenomenal—crispy on the outside, warm and chewy inside, with the raisins caramelized just enough to make it feel like a secret dessert disguised as breakfast. A cinnamon raisin bagel Donut.

That job wasn't just a paycheck. It was a masterclass in speed, precision, and flavor. And it gave me stories I'll never forget—stories that still smell like onions and sound like spatulas on steel.

The Grill Was the Show: A Morning at Bagel Nosh, Rush Street (circa 1980)
You could smell it before you saw it.

Somewhere between the perfume of late-night clubs and the diesel of early morning delivery trucks, the scent of caramelized onions and fresh bagels would hit you like a warm slap. That's when you knew you were close. Bagel Nosh, tucked into the Rush Street scene like a secret you hoped wouldn't get out, was already alive. And if you weren't in line by 7 a.m., you were in for a wait.

The line wrapped around the block, 200 deep on a good day. But no one complained. You waited because you knew what was coming. You stayed because Bagel Nosh wasn't just a deli—it was a ritual.

Inside, the place buzzed like a subway platform at rush hour. Orders flew, coffee poured, and the grill was the main event. Twenty-four feet of flat-top fury, manned by a kid who couldn't have been more than seventeen, moving like he was born with a spatula in each hand. I  cracked four eggs at once, flipped pancakes without looking, and kept a mountain of onions and potatoes cooking low and slow at either end of the grill, as if it were a sacred offering.

You didn't need a menu. You just needed to know your bagel. Rye, if you were old-school. Salt, if you had a hangover. Everything if you couldn't decide. They were boiled first—30 seconds in the kettle to get that glossy snap—then baked until the crust blistered just right. You could hear the crunch when someone bit into one across the room.

And the schmear? Not a whisper of cream cheese. A slab. A drift. A geological layer. If you were lucky, you got the house-made lox spread—salmon blended into cream cheese so smooth and salty that it should have come with a warning label. The real lox, hand-sliced behind the counter, was $32 a pound in the 1970s. That was steakhouse money. But people paid it, gladly.

You'd sit down with your plate—maybe a sesame bagel, toasted, with lox spread and a side of those griddled potatoes—and you'd watch the show. The grill guy never stopped moving. He was part short-order cook, part magician, part rock star. And when your food hit the table, hot and heavy on a ceramic plate, it felt like you'd earned it.

Bagel Nosh didn't last forever. Places like that never do. But if you were there—if you stood in that line, smelled those onions, heard the hiss of the grill—you remember. You remember because it wasn't just breakfast. It was Chicago, in all its noisy, greasy, glorious soul.

---
The hours changed shortly after the Bagel Nosh opened. They opened at 5 a.m. on Friday and didn't close until Sunday at 10 p.m. due to the crowds on Rush Street during the weekends.

After a couple of weekends, I was taught grill cooking and order management. It took me about 150 eggs, but I learned to break four eggs at once with two hands, cracking them straight on the grill.

One day, one of the countermen handed me a raw cinnamon raisin bagel. "Neil, drop this into the deep-fryer for about 4 minutes until medium-deep brown. Flip and cook the other side for the same amount of time, then remove and let drain and cool for a minute." I buttered mine... 
WOW... It's Phenomenal. 
deep-fried cinnamon raisin bagel with a light sugar glaze.
I asked Marcus why the deep-fried cinnamon raisin bagel wasn't on the menu. It was on the menu the very next weekend. In my Illinois history group, a few people mentioned that those deep-fried cinnamon raisin bagels were incredible! 


Copyright © 2022 by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 
#Jewish #JewishThemed #JewishLife

Tuesday, May 10, 2022

A Discovery of an Indian Effigy Mound in the Lake View Community of Chicago, May Date Before 1,000 AD.

Effigy mounds are sacred burial places built by Indians between 800 AD and 1,000 AD. They are extensive earthworks made from soil, usually about 3 to 7 feet high, forming shapes that can be seen from overhead. Some look like bears, and others resemble lizards or turtles.

Map of American Indian trails and villages of Chicago and of Cook, DuPage, and Will counties in 1804 was drawn by Albert F. Scharf 1900, a surveyor and cartographer who took an interest in Chicago’s 19th-century geography.
We'll look for evidence that a lizard-shaped effigy mound existed in Chicago's Lake View neighborhood, who built it, and why it disappeared. The answers to these questions illustrate how racism among early archaeologists prevented them from getting to the bottom of the effigies’ origins.
Scharf’s map shows the text 'LIZARD' (an “Effigy Mound"), located in Chicago's Lake View neighborhood. Effigy mounds are large earthworks made from soil that form shapes that can be seen from overhead.
Archeologists haven’t confirmed the existence of the effigy mound in Lake View, but there is some archival evidence of its location. 

The Scharf map reconstructed a landscape that had been vastly transformed from an area with a few villages and trails to a major city with several outlying suburbs and roads. Scharf relied on accounts from Chicagoans old enough to remember the area before 1833.

His source for the location of the lizard effigy mound was likely an artist and amateur archaeologist named Carl Dilg, who was obsessed with Chicago’s archaeological history and on a personal quest to document the ancient sites of Chicago. As he wrote in a private letter, Dilg wanted to make sure Chicago’s history was not “smothered and killed.”
The Chicago History Museum (formerly the Chicago Historical Society) has an extensive collection of Dilg’s papers, including notes he made from dozens of excursions to archaeological sites around Chicago in the 1880s and 1890s. They contain multiple references to a mound in Lake View, which he referred to as a “lizard” or a “serpent.” Dilg made several sketches of artifacts found near the mound and a map of the area now known as Lake View, showing the exact location of the mound, which you can see on his map.
In Dilg's sketch of the side profile of the lizard mound,
he compares it to another archaeological site in California.
But Dilg didn’t include a precise description of the mound’s length, width, or makeup.

Still, there seems to be significant circumstantial evidence that he’d actually seen it. For one, his depiction of the mound shows the head facing south and the tail facing north, as though the creature was walking south. This is consistent with other water spirit effigies that archaeologists have found in places like Wisconsin. Dilg’s sketches and notes also show the lizard-shaped mound had another round-shaped mound built adjacent to or directly on the “lizard.” This is consistent with the Potawatomi burial practice: The Potawatomi typically constructed conical burial mounds on the site of older effigy mounds. Finally, effigy mounds have been documented as close to Chicago as Aurora, so it’s possible effigy builders’ could have made it to Chicago.

But we know that there’s no lizard mound in Lake View today, so if it did exist, then what happened to it?

About 15 years after Dilg made his sketches, Charles Brown, a distinguished archaeologist from Wisconsin, visited Chicago to review Dilg’s extensive work. Brown wrote about Dilg’s observations, including one sentence about the Lake View effigy mound:

“A ‘lizard mound’ of doubtful origin was located on Oakdale Avenue and Wellington Street, under the present elevated station,” Brown wrote.

Brown’s notes suggest there was some kind of mound that was probably destroyed by the construction of the elevated train line that eventually became the Chicago Transit Authority’s Brown-Line. His use of the phrase “of doubtful origin” suggests Brown, a leading expert on effigy mounds at the time, doubted the mound in Lake View was a true effigy mound like those 800 to 1,200-year-old mounds in Wisconsin.

But archaeologist Amy Rosebrough says Brown has “been known to be wrong.” Brown’s doubt may simply reflect his own disdain at Dilg’s amateur approach to archaeology or his belief that Chicago was not part of the effigy mound builders’ territory, Rosebrough says.

Without a more complete record, Rosebrough and other archaeologists cannot verify if the Lake View mound was an authentic effigy mound or merely a lump of earth that Dilg’s romantic imagination transformed into an ancient sculpture.

If we assume Dilg was correct and the Lake View mound was, in fact, the same kind of effigy mound found in Wisconsin, that raises another critical question that scholars and archaeologists have been asking for 200 years: Who built it?

Early American archaeologists believed the mounds may have been built by a mysterious “lost race” of “mound builders,” sometimes thought to be an earlier Native American civilization connected to Mayan, Aztec, or Incan cultures. Some have theorized the mound builders weren’t indigenous to the Americas, but instead, they were a lost tribe of Israel or a traveling culture, like the Phoenicians or Egyptians.

These hypotheses, which range from unlikely to absurd, reveal a bias common among white Americans in the 19th century: They didn’t believe contemporary groups like the Ho-Chunk, Potawatomi, or Ojibwe, who all lived in areas with effigy mounds, were sophisticated enough to build them.

Richard C Taylor, a writer who traveled through Wisconsin in the 1830s, was typical of the time. He wrote:

“But to a far different race, assuredly, and to a far different period, must we look when seeking to trace the authors of these singular mounds. … But who were they who left almost imperishable memorials on the soil, attesting to the superiority of their race?”

This prejudice made archaeologists slow to accept the idea that these mounds were built by the ancestors of the Indians who lived near the mounds. But eventually, beginning in the early 1900s, American archaeologists began a more deliberate effort to talk with Native Americans about effigy mounds. Charles Brown and Paul Radin, two Wisconsin-based archaeologists, documented extensive conversations with Ho-Chunk people (then known as the Winnebago tribe).

The current consensus among archaeologists is that the mounds were built by several tribes or groups who might have been closely related and treated mound building as a ceremony. Archaeologists believe the Ho-Chunk of Wisconsin is one of several tribal groups descended from people who built effigy mounds, including the Iowa and Winnebago of Nebraska.

Over the years, the Ho-Chunk have claimed to be the descendants of effigy mound builders. In an interview with the Portage Daily Register in 2016, Bill Quackenbush, the cultural resources officer for the Ho-Chunk, said he prefers not to explain the significance of the mounds to outsiders. He said people should try to appreciate the mounds rather than analyze and understand their exact meaning.  
Digging into effigy mounds was a popular pastime during the late 19th century.
“The culture we live in today and society 100 years ago, they tried to do that,” he said. “They dug through them, took screens out there, shook the dirt, and looked for every little piece of information found. They couldn't find what they were trying to get. They had a preconceived notion in their heads already.”

So early settlers destroyed hundreds if not thousands of ancient sculptures, along with the historical record. They plowed under mounds to farm the land or leveled them and built homes on the sites. In some cases, early settlers claimed to have asked local Native Americans about the origins of the mounds without receiving a clear answer.

John Low, a Potawatomi Indian, and professor of American Indian studies, says he’s suspicious of these accounts, given that they took place during a power struggle over land.

“The natives may have said that because they aren’t going to share with people, they regard as the enemy, the specialness they know about a site.” Or, Low suggests, the white settlers may have displayed selective memory.

“We may have been written out of the narrative,” he says. “If the knowledge the natives have about these sites had been transcribed, gosh, that sounds like the natives have more of a claim, and it sounds icky to walk them out to Kansas or Oklahoma.”

By the late 1800s, when Indians were no longer seen as a threat to westward expansion, white Americans became interested in many aspects of their culture, including effigy mounds. But that interest was not necessarily respectful, especially considering mounds often contain human remains, and archaeologists felt free to dig through burial sites and take home human remains for display. Amy Rosebrough describes the popular pastime of “mounding”:

“You take a family out on a picnic and give the kids a shovel and bucket, and they would dig into a mound and see what was there.”

Unless we find new evidence in an archive somewhere (perhaps missing pages from Carl Dilg’s manuscript), Lake View's “lizard effigy” will remain a mystery. That’s because so much of the historical record was lost when the mounds were destroyed, says scholar and Potawatomi Indian John Low. As a Native American, he feels like the destruction of the mounds represents a desecration and willful disrespect of his culture. But he also sees a universal human tragedy.

“It’s something we should all feel sad about when they’re lost,” he says. “Like when the acropolis is lost. Or the pyramids. Or Stonehenge is lost. These, too, are part of the human record of achievement. What a shame.”

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