Monday, January 2, 2017

The History of Chicago's "Red-Light" Vice Districts. [PG-13]

In the early days of Chicago, the area on the north bank of the Chicago River, near the lakeshore, was initially populated by saloons and inexpensive boarding houses, like the Wolf Point Tavern (opened December 1828), the Eagle Exchange Tavern (opened in 1829), the Green Tree Tavern (opened in 1833), and Miller's Tavern [brothers Samuel and John] (opened in 1830). These were popular among seafaring men working the docks on the Chicago River and merchant vessels' crews.

Fifth Avenue, today's Wells Street, was Chicago's oldest and longest-running red-light district. Prostitution was likely present before Chicago was incorporated as a town on August 12, 1833. The
Board of Trustees imposed a $25 ($630 today) fine on known brothel owners in 1835. Chicago's population proliferates, and Chicago refiles to incorporation for city status. It was accepted on March 4, 1837, and became the City of Chicago. 

In 1838, records were made of complaints that several houses of ill-repute were operating openly on South 5th Avenue (Wells Street) between Jackson and First Street (renamed to Congress Parkway in 1909).

The area on the north bank of the Chicago River, near the lakeshore, was initially populated by saloons and inexpensive motels popular among seafaring men working the docks of the River or passing through Chicago on some merchant's vessel. 

By the 1850s, however, the area had developed into the toughest criminal district in the city, known as the Sands. It was composed almost entirely of gambling dens and brothels, occupying around thirty poorly constructed shacks, which had the unfortunate tendency to burn down or simply fall apart regularly.

Drunkenness, fighting, robbery, murder, general misbehavior, and disorderly conduct were the order of the day, every day, in the Sands. The intoxicated residents of the district were the misfortune of the town's respectable population. "Gentle" Annie Stafford was a famous prostitute of a Sands brothel, later running her own brothel at 155 North 5th Avenue (Wells Street), just north of Randolph Street, in the 1860s. Another resident, Margaret McGuinness, it is said, was not sober for five years straight and did not bother to wear clothes for three of those years.

Chicago's Mayor at the time was Long John Wentworth, an educated man from the New England area and a former newspaper editor who wanted the Sands razed. In April of 1857, William Ogden, who had been Mayor before Wentworth and now an important businessman in the city, managed to purchase several properties in the Sands. He immediately ordered the squatters living in these properties out. Still, when they refused to budge, he begged the help of Mayor Wentworth, who was only too happy to see an opportunity to eliminate the hated vice district.


On April 20, Wentworth organized and advertised a major horse race at a Race Track in Chicago. Most of the male residents of the Sands were habitual gamblers, so the event attracted the substantial majority of their population. While the men were gone, Wentworth and Ogden crossed over to the Sands, accompanied by a team of horses. After serving prior eviction notices, the horse team was hitched to the foundations of several of the shanties, and each was pulled down. The destruction led to a small riot, with the remaining residents of the Sands running into the streets, looting their neighbors' properties, and destroying most of the rest of the district in the process. A few hours later, what was left went up in flames. The next day's Chicago Tribune reported a fanciful hope:

This congregation of the vilest haunts of the most depraved and degraded creatures in our city has been literally "wiped out," and the miserable beings who swarmed there driven away. Hereafter, we hope the Sands will be the abode of the honest and industrious, and that efficient measures will be taken to prevent any other portion of the city from becoming the abode of another such gathering of vile and vicious persons.
The last sentence was wishful thinking, but curiously, the Tribune Building sits on the property that was once the Sands. The land the Wrigley building sits on, across Michigan Avenue, would also have been part of the Sands during the 1850s.

The 1850s and 60s saw masses of poor immigrants, primarily from Ireland, building a shantytown of low, tumble-down buildings centered around Monroe and Wells Streets, known as "Mrs. Conley's Patch." Longtime Alderman and world-renowned 'Bathhouse' John Coughlin was raised there as a child. However, "the Patch" was also notorious in its day for its decrepit dwellings and some of its residents' depravity and dark crimes. 

There were houses of prostitution, including most famously Madam Lou Harper's "Mansion" at 219 West Monroe Street (today; 228 West Monroe Street) between Wells and Franklin, and Francis Warren's troupe of streetwalkers, who resided between Clark and LaSalle.

Roger Plant was the principal king of vice, among the city's first ─ and perhaps greatest ─. A Yorkshire-born Englishman, Plant arrived in the city in about 1857. Legend has grown around Plant, who purportedly had been convicted of a felony in England and was scheduled to be exiled to Australia when he escaped and made his way to Chicago.

By 1858, Plant had built "Roger's Barracks," a set of poorly constructed shacks centered on the northeast corner of 5th Avenue (Wells Street) and Monroe. The Barracks, later known as "Under the Willow" (1858-1868), so named after a single sad willow tree that stood on the corner, was the center for all vice in the city up through the end of the Civil War. Plant popularized the catchphrase ─ "Why Not?" ─ which was emblazoned on each of the blue window shades in the complex.

Plant himself was diminutive, at just over five feet tall and no more than 100 lbs, but he was apparently a vicious fighter, skillful with a pistol, knife, and club, but especially with his fists and teeth. The only one who could ever whip him, it is said, was Mrs. Plant, a mountainous woman weighing at least 250 lbs. Plant kept order in the saloon on the premises and operated as a fence and a bail bondsman; while his wife ran a brothel with no fewer than 80 girls, they rented out cubbies on the property for use by streetwalkers and made a trade-in "white slave" girls.
During the war, Under the Willow ("that shadowy haunt of sin," as the Tribune put it) played host to battalions of soldiers and was rarely empty at any hour. It was a fearsome place, however, with many men finding themselves robbed, beaten, or knifed and discarded in the alleys (frequently by Mrs. Plant herself) after imbibing too much or falling asleep in one of the decrepit cribs.

Some of the permanent residents of the Plant complex included Mary Hodges, an apparently fantastically talented shoplifter, who it is said, in tall-tale fashion, would drive a cart into the shopping district several times a week to bring back her takings. Another was Mary Brennan ("an audacious old sinner," as the Tribune described her), who was a thief but also the trainer of thieves and pickpockets. Mrs. Brennan's two daughters were caught breaking into a home whose owner was away on business one afternoon in 1866 and, as punishment, were placed in the Catholic Asylum, separated from their mother until adulthood.

Another longtime tenant was Lib Woods. Miss Woods arrived in Chicago in 1855 and was described in 1860 as "one of the gayest, prettiest, most fascinating creatures that could be found among her class in this city…. with a splendid head of hair that made her rivals all despair. It hung down below her waist in long, glassy ringlets."

Woods was Billy Meadows's girlfriend, a successful prizefighter. But when Meadows took sick and died in 1861, Miss Woods' declined into drunkenness, and sexual dissipation was quick. She took up residence at Under the Willow as a prostitute shortly after and was then seized with smallpox, which disfigured her beautiful features. She was frequently drunk and became increasingly violent as she aged. She died a sad death in 1870, found in a gutter on 5th Avenue (Wells Street).

After the Great Chicago Fire in 1871, the Near South Side of Chicago became known for its criminal elements. The area known as "Little Cheyenne" ran several blocks along south Clark Street, south of Van Buren, and was described by one Chicago detective as "about as tough and vicious a place as there was on the face of the earth. Around the doors of these places could be seen gaudily-bedecked females, half-clad in flashy finery, dresses which never came below their knees, with many colored stockings and fancy shoes. Many wore bodices cut so low that they did not amount to much more than a belt."
Cheyenne District Brothel Map (1870-1905)
Click the Map to Enlarge.
Little Cheyenne was so-called because it had all the lawlessness of the Old West and was lined with every sort of dive, saloon, gambling house, and the house of ill-repute. In response, the residents of Cheyenne, Wyoming, referred to their red-light district as "Little Chicago."

Roger Plant was notorious for paying off the police to keep the heat away from Under the Willow and his other nefarious doings. In October 1866, he was arrested for robbing a man he had helped bail out of the Bridewell[1] for $25. A few days later, the police discharged him, much to the uproar of the city's more righteous citizens. Most likely, the increasingly wealthy Mr. Plant greased a few palms on his way out of the police house. In a later committee investigation before the city council, Plant was directly asked whether he had ever paid off the police, and, displaying honor among thieves, he refused to perjure himself ─ he "took the fifth" and was eventually dismissed for being unwilling to answer questions.

Within a few years after the war, Plant had amassed such a fortune that allowed him to depart his vile surroundings for a country estate outside Chicago. By 1871, the Tribune reported that "Roger is now a church member in good standing, drives an elegant team, and lives like a Christian."

Roger Plant had many children, by some counts, as many as fifteen. Several of them established their own houses of vice in the Custom House Place district during the 1880s and 1890s, including daughters Kitty and Daisy Plant and son Roger Plant, Jr. Many other former tenants not related to Plant also developed vice businesses. He is rightly known as the father of vice in Chicago.

By the time of Roger Plant's retirement, Under the Willow extended halfway down the block on both Monroe and Wells streets, and the centerpiece of the property, rebuilt after the Great Fire, was a four-story building. The plant continued renting the property for large sums into the 1890s until it passed out of the family's hands in 1908, purchased by the city's top sporting man, J.J. Corbett, for $100,000.

After the Fire, most of the residents of Mrs. Conley's Patch, having had their homes destroyed, moved to the south side, where many of the neighborhoods to this day still have substantial Irish populations. The west end of Monroe Street was redeveloped mainly as a warehouse district, while business and commercial buildings arose closer to the Lake.

Annie Stewart owned a brothel at 441 South Clark Street (today, the 800 block of South Clark Street) from 1862-1868. Madam Stewart left her house in 1868 after one of the girls shot a local constable who had come to visit the resort and cheated at euchre (a card game). The girl was arrested but exonerated after it came to light that the constable had tried to choke her first. 

The judge ruled that she "had not forfeited her rights to self-protection by resorting to the disreputable life of a cyprian (a lewd or licentious person, especially a prostitute)." Nevertheless, Annie Stewart's career ended, and another madam, Carrie Watson, took over the lease. 

Carrie Watson ran one of the world's most famous houses of ill repute between 1868 and 1897. Watson took a job as a prostitute at Lou Harper's Mansion in 1866. After two years of learning the madame business at Harper's feet and saving her money, she set out with her solid man, Al Smith, to buy the two-story brick building at 441 South Clark Street from Annie Stewart.

Watson's house usually had around 25 experienced, well-mannered, and well-dressed women and various diversions for the strictly upper-class gentlemen who frequented this house, including a bowling alley, five parlors, and a billiard room. A three-piece orchestra kept the guests entertained at all hours. The house's splendor became famous during the 1893 Chicago World's Fair.

Her most famous advertisement was a trained parrot at the door who repeated: 

"Carrie Watson!    Come in, gentlemen!"

Carrie Watson's brothel was destroyed in the first decade of the 1900s to make way for expanded tracks at the Dearborn Station. After the closing of the Station, the property was redeveloped for residential purposes.
CLICK THE MAP FOR AN ENLARGED VIEW.

46 saloons, 37 "houses of ill-repute," and 11 pawnbrokers in the Levee in 1894.

Prostitution continued to thrive and expand on the southern edge of the Loop. Smaller districts were developed on the Near West Side and Near North Side. Intermittent raids through the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries aimed not at closing the brothels but at maintaining a flow of bribes to police politicians and politically connected crime bosses. Raids also helped to preserve a modicum of public order within the districts and to control their borders. 

In 1897, for instance, Mayor Carter Harrison, Jr. ordered police to clean up a section of South Clark Street in which prostitutes were visible from a new trolley line. In 1903, he began sweeping vice away from the southern Loop while leaving the newer "Levee District" near the intersection of Cermak Road (22nd Street) and Michigan Avenue in the city's Near South Side. It consisted of twenty square blocks. Like many frontier town red-light districts, the district gets its name from its proximity to wharves in the city. It was the largest, the most notorious, and the most vicious of all Chicago's vice sections. It combined the worst features of the "Badlands" and "Little Cheyenne," which had been located in the Loop. It had saloons of unbelievable depravity. Its streets, alleys, and dives swarmed with harlots, sluggers, degenerates, dope fiends, thieves, and hundreds of pimps for the 5,000 resident prostitutes. 

The Levee District opened in the 1880s and was home to many brothels, saloons, dance halls, and similar places. These businesses ranged from rough dives, like Pony Moore's or the Turf Exchange Saloon, to prestigious, infamous clubs like The Everleigh Club. At 2120 South Dearborn, the location of Madam Emma Duvall's "French Em" brothel, the first all-mirrored bedrooms were introduced in the early 1890s. The French Em was located just a few doors north of the famous Everleigh Club. The Everleigh Club is where Marshall Field Jr. was shot by a prostitute on November 23, 1905

In the late 1800s, Michael' Hinky Dink' Kenna (1858-1946) purchased a tavern on Clark Street called The Workingman's Exchange, where he traded food and alcohol for votes. Kenna was elected Alderman in 1897 when he teamed with fellow First Ward Alderman (each ward had two Aldermen until 1923) 'Bathhouse' John Coughlin (1860-1938) to create a powerful political machine in what was then called The Levee District, the area just north of 22nd Street along the east bank of the Chicago River.
Levee District Brothel Map (1924)
Click the Map to Enlarge.
To receive protection, Levee inhabitants would annually attend the biggest event in the district, The First Ward Ball. The First Ward Ball was an event where Levee residents gathered to celebrate the triumphs brought to them by Michael' Hinky Dink' Kenna and 'Bathhouse' John Coughlin. 
Michael' Hinky Dink' Kenna' Bathhouse' John Coughlin 
Madams, corrupt businessmen, dance-hall owners, saloon owners, prostitutes, brothel owners, and gamblers attended the event to support their aldermen for continuing to protect them from the law. The money they raised came from purchasing tickets for the event and alcohol. 

When anti-vice reformers protested the ball, Kenna justified it as benefiting the people in the district through education and community programs. The First Ward Ball of 1908 was the most significant ball because it was the last that the most prominent figures of the Levee attended. That year, anti-vice reformers had tried to stop the ball by bombing The Coliseum, the Arena where it would be held. The ball still went on and was successful. 

The following ball would prove otherwise. The First Ward Ball of 1909 was unsuccessful because anti-vice reformers worked towards getting the city to revoke the event's alcohol license. They succeeded, and about 3,000 people attended, less than a quarter of the attendance of the previous balls. That year, reformers like the Woman's Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) worked towards stopping events like these because they felt they harmed the Levee families.
South Dearborn Street looking north from 22nd Street in the Levee district of Chicago, 1911
The lowest part of the Levee was called "Bed Bug Row." It was a group of 25-cent brothels mostly occupied by Negro girls. It had gangs of panderers and white slavers, classes in which young girls were taught various methods of perversions after they were "broken in" by professional rapists. It also provided entertainers for stag parties, peep shows for young boys and drug stores where dope addicts congregated and openly gave one another injections of cocaine and morphine. One store even provided hypodermic needles. Bed Bug Row was located between Dearborn and Federal and 19th and Archer.
Houses on Federal Street Levee District Chicago
Houses on Federal Street Levee District Chicago. 1911
The Gray Wolves were corrupt Chicago aldermen who held office from the 1890s to the 1930s. The Gray Wolves were led by First Ward aldermen' Bathhouse' John Coughlin, ' Hinky Dink' Mike Kenna, and Johnny Powers of the Nineteenth Ward.

The Chicago City Council frequently gave franchises to private businesses to maintain public services. Many companies bribed the aldermen to be awarded such contracts, a practice known as "boodling."

In 1895, the Gray Wolves awarded a franchise to the non-existent Ogden Gas Company to force the existing franchise holder to buy up the rights of Ogden Gas. This and similar schemes resulted in the formation of the Municipal Voters League in 1896 to throw the Gray Wolves aldermen off the council.

Lincoln Steffens, a muck-raking reporter from McClure's Magazine, was the first to describe these aldermen as gray wolves "for the color of their hair and the rapacious cunning and greed of their natures."
"The Paris," a saloon and brothel in Chicago's Levee district, located at 2101 Armour Street. It was operated by Maurice Van Bever until he was convicted for operating a "white slavery" ring.
President of the Chicago Brick Company, millionaire Patrick J. Sexton, owned a three-story mansion set fifty feet off the street at 1340 South Michigan Avenue in the 1880s and 1890s. Mr. Sexton and his wife hosted several important social events throughout the late nineteenth century. During that time, "P. J.", as he was known, became a pillar of the business community. P.J. Sexton died under somewhat mysterious circumstances in 1903, with rumors circulating that he had suffered arsenic poisoning, although the coroner's report came back clean. Sexton left a considerable sum of money to his wife and children, but they moved out of the home after his death.

With the new automobile industry growing in Chicago, the south Michigan area became home to several automobile showrooms, but the mansion remained a private residence. The windows were always shuttered, and no one ever remembered seeing the front door open. In fact, the home had come to be the city's most famous lovers' rendezvous, "The Arena." The management of this short-term hotel allowed customers in by the rear door only, and only men and women of the upper crust were admitted ─ absolutely no streetwalkers or dancers.

The Arena was closed in 1911 as public opinion turned against segregated vice, and the Mayor was forced to close the 22nd Street Levee. The building was demolished and replaced by a seven-story building operated as a furniture store in 1922. This building remains on the site today. It served as the Cook County Circuit Court for divorce and family court in the 1980s and 1990s. Today, the ground floor has a Giordano's Pizza Restaurant.

Jim Colosimo, a brothel and Restaurant owner, was one of Chicago's most powerful crime bosses in 1920. His Colosimo Restaurant here was famous around the world. No other place could compete with its star entertainers and the beauty of the chorus girls. Potter Palmer, Marshall Field, Al Jolson, George M. Cohan, and Al Capone were regular customers. The cafe was located at 2126-28 South Wabash Avenue, Chicago.
On the morning of May 11, 1920, when Colosimo entered the restaurant, a gunman stepped out from the cloakroom and shot him twice behind the ear. The killer was never found, but many think that the killing was ordered by Colosimo's longtime friend and partner, Johnny Torrio. 
In 1949, Colosimo's former cafe was a cafeteria for a short time, then reopened as a burlesque bar. In 1976, it housed a sign company, which was demolished shortly after. The site is currently a parking lot.

The Levee district's success in vice came to an end when reformers such as the Woman's Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) and Chicago Vice Commission CVC (established by Carter Harrison, Jr.) worked towards publicly exposing the issues of white slavery and alcohol. The WCTU had a "department of rescue" to save women forced into slavery. 
Founded in 1877 in Chicago's notorious "Levee District," the Pacific Garden Mission intended to convert the red-light district's visitors to evangelical Christianity. Pictured is a Gospel Wagon at the Mission.
They also had a "department of social purity," which raised sexual consent laws. The WCTU paid investigators to conduct studies on forced prostitution in Midwest lumber camps that would help them publish a journal of stories of women working as prostitutes in Chicago's Levee District.

The Chicago Vice Commission focused on terminating vice districts and worked towards investigating women's conditions in the Levee. The members spoke to prostitutes, police, and neighborhood organizations to examine the issue of prostitution. They published a report, The Social Evil in Chicago, which included prostitution statistics and recommendations for improvement. The report concluded that about 5,000 professional prostitutes worked in Chicago, and about 5 million men were receiving services from them, for which the women received about $25 weekly. They were mostly uneducated and unskilled, and they had little to no opportunities for economic advancement. The report was read worldwide and influenced vice commissions in 43 cities to close their vice districts.

Closing down the entire Levee District was a long, laborious process. It began on January 9, 1910, when Nathaniel Ford Moore died in Vic Shaw's brothel. She wanted to frame Minna Everleigh for the death, but Everleigh found out about Moore before Shaw got the chance. Thus, Shaw was forced to call the police to report the death, after which her brothel was closed. 

A year later, on October 3, 1911, the state's attorney issued warrants for 135 people associated with the Levee, including Big Jim Colosimo, Ed Weiss, Roy Jones, and Vic Shaw. The warrants shut down halls, saloons, and brothels. Many people were arrested within the brothels; in Marie Blanchey's brothel, 20 women and 30 men were arrested. Word spread about corruption in the government so on October 24, 1911, Mayor Harrison ordered the closure of the Everleigh Club, which was shut down the next day, allowing the famous brothel to throw a huge party. Many businesses in the Levee District closed in 1911, but the district held on for two more years. One of the last brothels to close was Freiberg's Dance Hall, which celebrated its last night on August 24, 1914.

When the Levee was closed in 1911, the Chinese living in the original Chinatown at Clark and Van Buren in the Loop began moving south to Armour Square. Some historians say this was due to increasing rent prices. Others see more complex causes: discrimination, overcrowding, a high non-Chinese crime rate, and disagreements between the two associations ("tongs") within the community, the Hip Sing Tong and the On Leong Tong. 

The move to the new South Side Chinatown was led by the On Leong Merchants Association, who, in 1912, had a building constructed along 22nd Street that could house 15 stores, 30 apartments, and the Association's headquarters. While the building's design was typical of the period, it also featured Chinese accents, such as tile trim adorned with dragons.
In 1921, after expanding Chinatown and association membership, the On Leong Merchant's Association purchased the property at 2216 South Wentworth Avenue, Chicago, for a new, more majestic building to reflect the vitality and traditions of this rapidly growing community.

19th CENTURY SEX BUSINESS
It's crucial to remember that these nicknames were derogatory and demeaning. It reflected a deeply contradictory view of prostitutes in the 19th century. It objectified women involved in prostitution. Their lives were typically filled with hardship, hunger, exploitation, poverty, hunger and no options for escaping their circumstances. It's important to understand that these nicknames, while euphemisms for prostitutes carry a complex mix of judgment, pity, and sometimes even a degree of romanticization. The underlying tone of most terms is one of disapproval, despite some hinting at pity or romanticization. Some nicknames imply a degree of choice in their lifestyle, while others suggest fallen victimhood. 

DAUGHTERS OF SIN: Emphasizes the moral condemnation of their profession within a highly religious society. It views prostitution as stemming from inherent sin, placing blame on the women themselves. It plays into religious associations with sin and its consequences.

DOVES OF THE ROOST: A deceptively gentle term, as doves often symbolize peace and purity. This acts as both a euphemism and a stark contrast to the harsh reality these women faced.

FAIR BELLES: A euphemism focusing on the physical attractiveness of these women, masking the desperation often underlying their work. Focused on physical attractiveness, a woman of desire is an object obscuring the underlying social and economic realities.

FALLEN ANGELS: Conjures images of purity lost. This term highlights the perceived tragedy of women who have fallen from grace while still retaining an element of pity.

LADIES OF THE LINE: A blunt term likely referring to how prostitutes might line up or position themselves within certain areas known for their services.

NYMPHS DU PRAIRIE: This French term means "Nymphs of the Prairie." Nymphs in mythology were beautiful nature spirits, often associated with desire. Mythologizes them as figures of the wild, natural beauty and sexuality, creating a sense of exoticism. It romanticized the harsh realities of their lives. 

PAINTED CATS: Acknowledges artificial beauty through cosmetics. This has a dehumanizing effect and could also imply danger or predatory behavior. This unflattering term focuses on the idea that prostitutes often wore heavy makeup, drawing a demeaning comparison to animals.

SCARLET LADIES: References the biblical figure of the Whore of Babylon, invoking notions of sin and moral corruption. The color scarlet was associated with brazen sexuality and a lack of shame. References the "scarlet letter," a symbol of adultery and immorality. The color scarlet was associated with sin and prostitution.

SOILED DOVES: Doves represent purity and gentleness. This image contrasts the purity traditionally associated with doves with the concept of being "soiled," a perceived loss of innocence and tarnished reputation due to their profession.

SPORTIN' WOMEN: Presents prostitution as a frivolous activity associated with pleasure and entertainment. This term obscures the often exploitative nature of their work and the economic necessity that may have driven them to this point. A more casual, euphemistic phrase aimed at softening the harsh reality of sex work and suggesting it was paid entertainment.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.



[1] BridewellOffenders arrested in Chicago for crimes like public drunkenness, fighting, and disturbing the peace were not held at the county's jail. Instead, the City of Chicago was responsible for detaining them at the city "Bridewell" (an old English word for a jail used to house inmates on a short-term basis). Built in 1852 at Polk and Wells Streets, the Bridewell was located near the city's vice district. Inmates were rarely held there for more than several weeks.

Sunday, January 1, 2017

History of the Cape Cod Room at the Drake Hotel, 140 East Walton Place, Chicago, Illinois. (1932-2016)



In 1932, the Cape Cod Room became Chicago’s first choice for fresh fish and seafood and the nation’s first themed restaurant. Twenty years later, seen laughing over drinks, newlyweds Marilyn Monroe and Joe Dimaggio would carve their iconic initials into the bar’s world-famous wooden counter.
On December 6th, 1933, the day after prohibition was repealed, Coq d’Or Restaurant & Lounge opened in favor of thirsty patrons eager to purchase a 40¢ whiskey. In the 1940s, it became a local hangout for reporters, politicians, and even some notorious characters, though it never lost the true Chicago crowd.
In 1940, The Drake sign was illuminated, solidifying the hotel’s rightful place in the most internationally recognized skyline. The 40s proved to be a decade of colossal change, both at The Drake and around the world. The Palm Court changed seasonally to accommodate the changing palate of the sophisticated patrons. In the winter, to set the holiday tone, the fountain was replaced with a 2,000-pound fireplace. In the summer, to get the cool lake breeze, the ceiling was open and the fountain was filled with fresh water.
Throughout the 50s and 60s, the political and social climate of Chicago was evolving, and The Drake was inclined to develop alongside the city. By the 1970s, the John Hancock Center towered over The Drake, providing a frame of evolution for the half-century hotel.

In 1980, Hilton International acquired The Drake Hotel and restored it to its former glory. The Drake Hotel guests see today provides the grandeur of the past and accommodations fitting for today’s high society.
"As part of The Drake's comprehensive renovation plan, the Cape Cod Room will be closing permanently after New Year's Eve dinner service on December 31, 2016. After the Cape Cod closing, its iconic dishes, including Bookbinder's Soup - Original Recipe, oysters Rockefeller, crab cakes, Cape Cod seafood boil, and baked Alaska, will be featured menu items in the Coq d’Or Restaurant & Lounge to continue to enjoy. As well, the memorabilia will be preserved within the hotel."

Camp Skokie Valley & U.S. Camp Skokie were located in Harms Woods at the eastern outskirts of Glenview, Illinois.

President Roosevelt, 1933
One month after taking office, President Roosevelt (FDR), inspired by his experiences with Progressive Era conservation in upstate New York as well as his involvement with the Boy Scouts, initiated the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a New Deal (1933-1936) project. 

The goal was to provide jobs and to complete much-needed conservation work that would improve not only the land but also the bodies and minds of the workers, as FDR put it, by “taking a vast army of these unemployed out into healthful surroundings.”

The Department of Labor organized the enlistment process, accepting men between ages 18 and 25, later expanded to 17 to 28, whose families were on the relief rolls. Enrollees were paid $30 per month, $25 of which went back to their families.
Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) - 1941
Most of the work would be done on government-owned land and supervised by the Department of Interior or the Forest Service. CCC enrollees worked on a variety of projects on public lands throughout the nation, including fighting forest fires, building roads and trails, improving recreational facilities, planting trees, and completing erosion and flood control projects.
A fleet of 40 trucks transported enrollees to the job site in the morning and brought them back to camp for lunch and in the evening, 1935.
In May 1933, FDR approved eight CCC projects in Illinois, one of which was the Skokie Marsh project. The purpose of the Skokie Marsh project was two-fold: to drain the areas swamp-like land and to create a recreational facility.

Camp Skokie Valley, established a month later on June 27, 1933, began as a tent camp near the marsh along Willow Road. But when the owners of the property requested a rental fee, the CCC decamped to county-owned land on Harms Road south of Glenview Road in Glenview.
Camp Skokie Valley Headquarters, 1938.
In September 1933, workers began constructing the permanent structures of Camp Skokie Valley. More than 1,000 men, organized into five companies, descended on the marsh to begin transforming it into the Skokie Lagoons.
Camp Skokie Valley Chapel, 1941.
Ultimately, the camp consisted of 115 buildings, including barracks for more than 2,000 men, mess halls, kitchens, a chapel, a barbershop, canteens, and classrooms.
Inside the barracks at Camp Skokie Valley, 1935.
The Army ran the camps where the enrollees lived and provided them with food, clothing, and medical care including three physicians and a chaplain. Military officers from Ft. Sheridan were in charge. The men wore World War I-style unadorned olive uniforms for dress occasions and denim work clothes on the job.
Despite a clause prohibiting racial discrimination in the law that created the CCC, the organization adopted a national policy of racial segregation in its camps. Camp Skokie Valley included two companies of African American enrollees. Members of Co. 605 are pictured here, 1939.
Although CCC camps were under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service, they were administered by the War Department. Since the Army ran the camps, life was very regimented. Enrollees at Camp Skokie Valley worked in three shifts, with the first truck leaving camp for the job site at 6:30 a.m. and the last truck returning to the camp at 4:50 p.m. The men worked about seven hours per day, five days a week. 


Enrollees found many ways to amuse themselves when not working in the lagoons, including organizing musical performances.
During their free time, many enrollees attended evening classes at the camp on a variety of academic and vocational topics. Organized sports were also very popular, with inter-company games and competitions held in basketball, baseball, volleyball, and boxing.
Volleyball (pictured) and other organized sports were encouraged by CCC leaders and enjoyed by the enrollees.
By the time the camp was phased out in 1941, thousands of young men from across the country spent up to two years at Camp Skokie Valley from 1933 until through 1941. The buildings stood vacant for a couple of years when the camp was reactivated in 1943 to house the 740th Military Police Battalion. Initially, the Battalion mission involved public relations and recruiting. They participated in numerous parades and war bond fundraisers in Chicago. In addition, they served as bodyguards for Hollywood celebrities who were in town to help promote bond drives. The 30-member 740th Military Police Band frequently participated in radio broadcasts as well as in concerts in Chicago's Grant Park.

As World War II progressed, facilities for German prisoners of war were needed. These prisoners were incarcerated in the U.S. Camp Skokie, one of many among the former CCC camps in this country to be pressed into service to fill this need.

POWs at Glenview were primarily Luftwaffe aircrews along with troops of General Field Marshall Erwin Rommels Afrika Corps. The POWs were treated well and generally content with their situation in Glenview. They were put to work on surrounding farms and orchards. This arrangement worked out well since many of the property owners were themselves of German extraction and could converse with the prisoners in their own language. Being in one of these POW camps was very little like being in prison or a concentration camp. Many of the prisoners blended with the local community, drinking at bars and dating local women.

Some POWs worked at the Glenview Naval Air Station, including a contingent who were said to have helped build the Navy chapel (now owned by the Glenview Park District and located in the Glen). Nearly 400 POWs were based at U.S. Camp Skokie in 1943.

When World War II finally came to an end in 1945, there was no further use for the facility, and it stood vacant for nearly 20 years.  Most of the old barracks and other buildings were demolished. However, one barrack building was preserved and renovated in the mid-1960s to establish Girl Scout Camp Adahi which has been razed in 2016. 

Some concrete foundations and steps are all that remain of the rest of the camp that once played an important role in Glenview's history. 

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 

Saturday, December 31, 2016

The History of Rosiclare, Illinois, in Hardin County on the Ohio River.

Hardin county was made by taking the south end of Gallatin and the northeast part of Pope counties. It was created on March 2, 1839, and was only 185 square miles in size.
The second smallest county in Illinois is next to Putnam county. There are three towns in the county; Elizabethtown, with a 2020 population of 210; Rosiclare, 964; and Cave-in-Rock, 230. 

The first settler within the limits of the county was reported to be James McFarlan, Sr., who had a contract with the United States to furnish beef for the garrison at Fort Massac (Metropolis, Illinois, 30 miles southwest). He settled at the present site of Elizabethtown in 1808, where the trail crossed from Nashville, Tennessee, to the salt works at Equality.
Here McFarlan ran a ferry across the Ohio River for twenty years. William McFarlan was also a settler as early as 1808. 

In 1808 Governor William H. Harrison gave Isaac White and Jonathan Taylor permission to operate a ferry at Elizabethtown. John King was the first cabinet maker. Mr. Ewell was the first teacher and Rev. Stilly, a Baptist minister, preached the first sermon in the county.

Benona Lee came in 1809.
In 1839 lead was discovered on the farm of Mr. James Anderson, one mile south of the site of the present-day town of Rosiclare. Nothing was done at that time toward developing the deposit. In 1842 Mr. Pell, living one mile north of Rosiclare, discovered fluorspar and lead. Companies were organized, and mines opened.
These mines were worked at intervals until 1851, when they were abandoned. More was done once the fluorspar mines were opened up in recent years. Since then, there has been significant activity in the fluorspar, zinc, and lead mining businesses. The mines are less than a mile out of Rosiclare. Two railroads were built, one steam and the other electric, leading to the river and used to move the raw products of the mines to the river, where they are loaded onto barges for transportation to buyers. The mines were closed due to cheaper foreign competition in 1996.

Fluorspar is used directly or indirectly to manufacture aluminum, gasoline, insulating foams, refrigerants, steel, and uranium fuel. 
Since 1965, the annual Hardin County Fluorspar Festival has been held in the fall in Rosiclare, Illinois, to celebrate the influences brought to the area by the Fluorspar Mining Industry. 

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 

Broadway at Leland Avenue looking north toward Lawrence Avenue Chicago, Illinois. 1926

Broadway at Leland Avenue looking north toward Lawrence Avenue Chicago, Illinois. 1926

The Story of an American Merchant, Richard W. Sears in Chicago by 1893.

Richard Warren Sears was born on December 7, 1863, in Stewartville, Minnesota, to Eliza A. Benton and James Warren Sears, a successful wagon maker.

When Richard was 15, his father lost his substantial fortune in a stock farm venture; his father died two years later. Young Richard then took a job in the general offices of the Minneapolis and St. Paul Railroad to help support his widowed mother and his sisters.

Once he had qualified as a station agent Sears asked to be transferred to a smaller town in the belief that he could do better there financially than in the big city. Eventually, he was made station agent in Redwood Falls, Minnesota, where he took advantage of every selling opportunity that came his way. He used his experience with railroad shipping and telegraph communications to develop his idea for a mail-order business.

As a railroad station agent in a small Minnesota town, Sears lived modestly, sleeping in a loft right at the station and doing chores to pay for his room and board. Since his official duties were not time-consuming, Sears soon began to look for other ways to make money after working hours. He ended up selling coal and lumber and he also shipped venison purchased from Native American tribes.

In 1886 an unexpected opportunity came his way when a jeweler in town refused to accept a shipment of watches because no rail freight charges had been paid. Rather than having the railroad pay to return the shipment, Sears obtained permission to dispose of the watches himself. He then offered them to other station agents for $14 each, pointing out that they could resell the watches for a tidy profit. 

The strategy worked and before long Sears was buying more watches to sustain a flourishing business. Within just a few months after he began advertising in St. Paul, Sears quit his railroad job and set up a mail-order business in Minneapolis that he named the R. W. Sears Watch Company.

Offering goods by mail rather than in a retail store had the advantage of low operating costs. Sears had no employees and he was able to rent a small office for just $10 a month. His desk was a kitchen table and he sat on a chair he had bought for 50¢. But the shabby surroundings did not discourage the energetic young entrepreneur. Hoping to expand his market, Sears advertised his watches in national magazines and newspapers. Low costs and a growing customer base enabled him to make enough money in his first year to move to Chicago and publish a catalog of his goods.
In Chicago Sears hired Alvah C. Roebuck to fix watches that had been returned to the company for adjustments or repairs. The men soon became business partners and they started handling jewelry as well as watches. A master salesman, Sears developed a number of notable advertising and promotional schemes, including the popular and lucrative "club plan." According to the rules of the club, 38 men placed one dollar each week into a pool and chose a weekly winner by lot. Thus, at the end of 38 weeks, each man in the club had his own new watch. Such strategies boosted revenues so much that by 1889 Sears decided to sell the business for $70,000 and move to Iowa to become a banker.

Sears soon grew bored with country life, however, and before long he had started a new mail-order business featuring watches and jewelry. Because he had agreed not to compete for the same business in the Chicago market for a period of three years after selling his company, Sears established his new enterprise in Minneapolis, Minnesota. He hired Roebuck again and this time he dubbed the product of their partnership A. C. Roebuck and Company. In 1893 Sears moved the business to Chicago and renamed it Sears, Roebuck, and Company.

Once established in Chicago, the company grew rapidly. The first edition of the Sears catalog published in the mid-1880s had included a list of only 25 watches. 

By 1892, however, it had expanded to 140 pages offering "everything from wagons to baby carriages, shotguns to saddles." Sales soared to nearly $280,000. A mere two years later the catalog contained 507 pages worth of merchandise that average Americans could afford. Orders poured in steadily and the customer base continued to grow. By 1900 the number of Sears catalogs in circulation reached 853,000.

Sears was the architect of numerous innovative selling strategies that contributed to his company's development. In addition to his club plan, for example, he came up with what was known as the "Iowazation" project: the company asked each of its best customers in Iowa to distribute two dozen Sears catalogs. These customers would then receive premiums based on the amount of merchandise ordered by those to whom they had distributed the catalogs. The scheme proved to be spectacularly successful and it ended up being used in other states, too.

Richard Sears had a genius for marketing and he exploited new technologies to reach customers nationwide via mail-order. At first, he targeted rural areas: People had few retail options there and they appreciated the convenience of being able to shop from their homes. Sears made use of the telegraph as well as the mails for ordering and communicating. He relied on the country's expanding rail freight system to deliver goods quickly; the passage of the Rural Free Delivery Act made servicing remote farms and villages even easier and less expensive.

Such tremendous growth led to problems, however. While Sears was a brilliant marketer (he wrote all of the catalog material), he lacked solid organizational and management skills. He frequently offered merchandise in the catalog that he did not have available for shipment, and after the orders came in he had to scramble to find the means to fill them. Workdays were frequently 16 hours long; the partners themselves toiled seven days a week. Fulfilling orders accurately and efficiently also posed a challenge. One customer wrote, "For heaven's sake, quit sending me sewing machines. Every time I go to the station I find another one.

You have shipped me five already." Roebuck became exhausted by the strain of dealing with these concerns and he sold his interest in the company to Sears in 1895 for $25,000.
With his partner out of the picture, Sears badly needed a manager. He eventually found one in Aaron Nussbaum, who bought into the company with his brother-in-law, Julius Rosenwald. It was Rosenwald, not Sears, who transformed Sears, Roebuck "from a shapeless, inefficient, rapidly expanding corporate mess into the retailing titan of much of the twentieth century." He streamlined the system by which orders were processed, employing a color-coding scheme to track them and an assembly-line method of filling them. These efficient new techniques enabled the company to meet the challenge of handling an ever-increasing number of orders. 

By 1895 the company was grossing almost $800,000 ($26.8 million today) a year. Five years later that figure had shot up to $11 million ($368 million today), surpassing sales at Montgomery Ward, a mail-order company that had been founded back in 1872.

In 1895 Sears married Anna Lydia Mechstroth of Minneapolis and they had three children.  

In 1901 Sears and Rosenwald bought out Nussbaum for $1.25 million ($50 million today).

By 1906, for example, Sears, Roebuck was averaging 20,000 orders a day. During the Christmas season, the number jumped to 100,000 orders a day. That year the company moved into a brand-new facility with more than three million square feet of floor space. At the time it was the largest business building in the world.
Beginning in 1908 Sears, Roebuck and Co. sold mail-order Modern Homes program. Sears was not an innovative home designer. Sears was instead a very able follower of popular home designs but with the added advantage of modifying houses and hardware according to buyer tastes. Individuals could even design their own homes and submit the blueprints to Sears, which would then ship off the appropriate precut and fitted materials, putting the homeowner in full creative control. Modern Home customers had the freedom to build their own dream houses, and Sears helped realize these dreams through quality custom design and favorable financing.
Over the next 32 years, Sears designed 447 different housing styles, from the elaborate multistory Ivanhoe, with its elegant French doors and art glass windows, to the simpler Goldenrod, which served as a quaint, three-room and no-bath cottage for summer vacationers. (An outhouse could be purchased separately for Goldenrod and similar cottage dwellers.) Customers could choose a house to suit their individual tastes and budgets. Production ended in 1940 and Sears sold about 70,000 - 75,000 homes. 

The History of Sears Modern Homes and Sears Honor Bilt Homes includes Floor Plans.

In the initial production year of 1909, the Sears Motor Buggy was offered only as a $395.00 ($12,000 in today's dollars), solid-tired, runabout. But starting in 1910, Sears offers 5 different models of the automobile. The truth of the matter is that they were all basically the same car with different amenities, like fenders, lights, tops, etc. 
Richard Sears resigned as president of the company he had founded in 1909. His health was poor and many of his extravagant promotional schemes had begun to run into opposition from his fellow executives, including Rosenwald. He turned the company over to his partner and retired to his farm north of Chicago. At the time of his death on September 28, 1914, Sears left behind an estate of $25 million ($703 million today) and an enduring legacy of success in the highly competitive world of retailing. 

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

The Oldest House in Chicago's West Ridge Community.

In 1871, Peter Schmitt Jr. (aka: Schmidt; Americanized to Smith when married to Elizabeth Phillip), built this stunning home at 6836 North Ridge Boulevard for a cost of $5,100.00. The home still stands and has been in the same family for 146 years. Today's value is 100 times the original cost at $510,000.
The number of Chicago residence jumped from 50 in 1830 to 4,170 by 1837. Construction supplies never kept up with demand. The extraordinary demand for quick shelter led to Chicago’s first reputation for architectural innovation; balloon framing. In 1833 St. Mary’s Church was built on a new principal of construction – the substitution of thin plates and studs, running the entire height of the building and held together only by nails. The older and more expensive method of construction used mortised and tenoned joints. A house now could be erected in a week, but usually was not fixed to the ground. 

The Smith house was near completion but still under final construction at the time of the Great Chicago Fire. The house was much further north of the conflagulation and totally safe. There is no record of the building style, but one can assume, since it is still standing, lived in and owned by the same family, that it used “old school” construction methods.

Expense Record of Building the Schmitt House; recorded in 1871: 
   Carpenter Work:........Cash......$750
   Mason Work:............Cash......$600
   Plastering:............Cash......$250
   Lumber:..........................$750
   Sash and Moulding:...............$150
   Lime and cement:.................$125
   Locks and Things:................$75
   Paint and Painters:..............$100
   Brick:...........................$675
   Lumber at Evanston:..............$75
   Freight:.........................$50
   Tinsmith:........................$63
   Stone Work:......................$50
   Carpenter Cash:..................$50
   Moulding Door:...................$50
   Other Cash payments:.............$1337
   ======================================
   Grand Total:.....................$5150



Compiled by Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Manning & Bowes Saloon After a Bomb Explosion in 1909.

Manning & Bowes Saloon after a bomb explosion showing the room near the bar in ruins with four men standing and sitting at one end of the bar. The saloon was located at 321 State Street (today, 501 South State Street) in Chicago. (1909)

NO ARRESTS FOR BOMB NO. 30
Chicago Sunday Tribune - June 27, 1909

Although the police profess to have one man under suspicion as having caused bomb explosion No. 30 at Manning & Bowes Saloon, 321 State Street, no arrests were made yesterday (Saturday, June 26, 1909). A rumor is gaining in strength that the man under suspicion has a strong political "pull," but the police deny that this is true of the person they are seeking.

Detectives from the headquarters and the Harrison Street station house continued work throughout the day upon the case but were unable or unwilling to report any progress when asked about the bomb throwers. 

Assistant Chief of Police Schuettler declares that every means the department has at its command is being used in the pursuit of the man or men responsible for the repeated outrages.

"I wish I knew who the certain police official is who knows the persona responsible for the dynamite bombs in the so-called gamblers' war; I would give ten years of my life to know who is responsible for the outrages."

This was the statement made last evening by Assistant Chief Schuettler in response to a published account said to have been made by persons who are said to be in touch with the gambling situation.

"I don't believe there is any official attached to the Chicago police department who has information that would lead to the identity of the perpetrators of the bomb outrages," said the assistant chief.

"I have officials of a powder company at work trying to locate the place where the bomb throwers obtain the powder, which is the explosive used in most of the bombs. I believe we are close to the track of the bomb throwers but cannot afford to make arrests upon suspicion. We have several persons under surveillance, but it is our business to catch them in the act in order to secure a conviction."

"It makes me feel mighty bad to know that no arrest has been made as yet, but we would be in a worse way if we made arrests upon suspicion and were unable to produce evidence against the suspects that would satisfy a court."

"We have followed up the movements of all the known gamblers and obtained lists of men that are supposed to be their enemies within the gambling fraternity. I have heard rumors that there is someone who we are afraid to arrest. That is untrue."

"If we secure evidence against anyone, no matter how he may be connected, we will not hesitate to make arrests. This last outrage has made the detectives who have worked at times upon cases determined to land the men who are responsible."

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

The Hub Roller Rink & Axle Roller Rinks of Illinois.

The Hub Roller Rink opened in a desolate area in October 1950 at 4510 North Harlem Avenue, Chicago, Illinois. For those familiar with Chicago today, this area is now a shopping mall and small stores.
1950, there was nothing between the Roller Rink and Irving Park Road.
The "Harlem Outdoor Theater (drive-in theater)" was at the corner, and across the street was the Illinois State Police Headquarters. South of Irving Park were some small stores and restaurants that many Roller Rink regulars hung out at after the rink closed.
Hub Roller Skating Rink Concession Stand before the Axle Remodeled.
The HUB was a supersized roller skating rink for its time and housed a Giant Wurlitzer Pipe Organ, initially played by Leon Berry. The skating area was about 275 feet long and some 95 feet wide. The floor was much larger if you included the area outside of the rink railings that allowed skaters access to the rink floor.

VIDEO
Music by Freddy Arnish, Organist at the Hub.

The skating had set "styles of skating" displayed on a lighted sign when the organ music would change tempos. Most of the time, the skating style was "All Skate." Some other skating styles were Couples Only, Waltz, Fox Trot, and a few fancy dances such as Collegiate and the 14-step.
The Romp was when skaters joined hands in groups of 3, 4, or 5 people, and the end person would be "whipped" around the turns, which often would end in a group falling from the high speeds.
The rink was open every night and had matinees on Saturday and Sunday. Weekends always found huge crowds, some who never even put on a pair of skates. The lobby area was almost as big as the rink, and it had a sizeable oval snack bar about 40 feet long in the center of the lobby. Around the outside walls were coat rooms, shoe skate rentals (leave your shoes as security for the rentals), a skate store, and a skate repair window (minor adjustments to rentals or personal skates were free), as well as a small dance floor with a jukebox.
A two-story office and the coat room separated the lobby from the rink. The only access to the rink area was through a large opening at the west end of the lobby.
The Hub changed owners and was renamed "The Axle" in 1974. The company, "M&R Amusement," owned all three roller skating rinks. 

People always remember Maurice Lenell when the Hub is brought up in conversations.

Maurice Lenell Cookie Co., 4510 North Harlem, Norridge, IL.
Axle Roller Rink, 4474 North Harlem Avenue, Norridge, IL.
 
The Pro Skate Shop in the Axle Roller Rink in Niles, Illinois, in my case, gave me the first credit account I had when I was only 14 years old. I put down $60 on a great pair of professional men's roller skates, a special order. It had leather above the ankle boot, high-end wheels, hubs, trucks, and a jump bar to keep the trucks from breaking off under stress. I set the trucks so loosely that they would wobble when I lifted my foot and jiggled it. After about 6 weeks (approximately 15 skating sessions), the shoes were broken in, and I could wear thin socks without getting any blisters!

They were expensive, $175 ($630 today), but I skated there on weekends (2 or 3 times, including Sundays) for 5-6 years, so it paid off for me. Here's how it worked. Every time you went skating, you'd have to give the Pro Shop at least $5 and your shoes to store. After skating, you return the skates to the Pro Shop and provide them with the roller skates to keep until you return the next time. I never told my parents until the day I paid them off (in a little over a year) and brought them home. 

During the Intermissions, the rink held age-related speed races. I won a lot! The winners would get a free pass for their following admission. 

The Axle locations were:
  • Countryside, IL: Route 66, just East of LaGrange Road. (Closed Mid-1978)
  • Norridge, IL  4510 North Harlem. [Formerly: Hub Roller Skating Rink, Chicago]
  • Niles, IL: Milwaukee Avenue just north of Golf Road (Closed August 8, 1984)
The Axle closed on August 8, 1984.


Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.