Friday, August 20, 2021

The Lake House, Chicago's First Luxury Hotel and Fine Dining Restaurant.

The Lake House opened in 1835 as the first luxury hotel and fine dining restaurant, becoming famous for its French cooking. The hotel stood on the north side of the Chicago River on what was then the lakeshore, across the river from Fort Dearborn near where the Wrigley Building stands today.
This photograph was taken between 1857 and 1859 when the Lake House was a Hospital for the poor. The Rush Street bridge opened in 1857.




This impressive brick hotel was four stories in height plus a basement and elegantly furnished at $90,000 ($2,792,000 today). The building was surrounded by one of the only sidewalks in the town.

The men whose "Lake House Association" enterprise built the hotel and restaurant were Gurdon S. Hubbard, John Harris Kinzie (John Kinzie's son), General David S. Hunter (First Lieutenant, Fifth Infantry, Commandant of Fort Dearborn (December 14, 1830, to May 20, 1831), Dr. William Bradshaw Egan (Illinois House of Representatives (1852-1854), and Major James B. Campbell (real estate investor)

The Lake House Hotel was the first restaurant in Chicago to serve live oysters, transported from New England by sleigh in 1838.

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I've been asked several times how fresh oysters could come from the East Coast.

First of all, oysters were kept alive on Ice while being transported. If an oyster's shell opens, they die. Dead oysters carry dangerous bacteria for humans.

Chicago's first fresh oysters were delivered in 1838 by sleigh from New Haven, Connecticut. This spurred Chicago’s earliest love affair with the oyster. By 1857, there were seven "Oyster Depots" and four "Oyster Saloons" in the city, and the population was 109,000 in 1860. Peaking in the Gilded Age of the 1890s (population of 1,001,000 in 1890) and waning with Prohibition, oyster consumption was plentiful in old Chicago. Believe it or not, ice cream parlors also served oysters because they had all that ice.

In the 1890s, express-service refrigerated train cars shipped oysters and other perishable foods around the country. The cars did not come into general use until the turn of the 20th century.

The Lake House was Chicago's first foray into fine dining and offered some East Coast imports to their well-heeled clientele. It was the first restaurant in Chicago to serve dinner in courses and to use white tablecloths, napkins, menu cards, and even toothpicks.
Michigan Street was renamed Hubbard Street (440N 1 to 299E)
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The first Rush Street bridge, a swing bridge, opened in 1857 (destroyed in an accident in 1863), but before then, a ferry at the Lake House, said to be "the safest and the pleasantest on the river," was free.

In the words of James Buckingham, a sophisticated British gentleman who visited in 1840, the hotel was "superior . . .  excellent . . .  Elysium (paradise)."

On November 30, 1845, a group of Scots in Chicago gathered at the Lake House to celebrate the Scottish culture and identity on Saint Andrew's Day. They formed the "Saint Andrew Society," similar to the one on the East Coast.

The Lake House was sold to the Sisters of Mercy in 1850. On February 27, 1851, the "Illinois General Hospital" was given over to the charge of the Sisters of Mercy. On June 21, 1852, the Illinois State Legislature incorporated Mercy Hospital and Mercy Orphanage. In May 1853, finding the hospital (Lake House) inadequate to accommodate the increasing number of patients, the Sisters moved the patients to a large frame building on Kenzie Street.

John Johnson and Frederick Knickerbocker purchased the Lake House building and reopened the hotel and restaurant.

A shocking calamity occurred on September 19, 1856. At about seven o'clock in the morning, the boat at the Lake House ferry capsized while crossing from the North to the South Side of the river. It was crowded with passengers, all men, and most laborers going to work. Many succeeded in swimming ashore. Others were picked up by boats. It was supposed that a large number drowned, but as only ten bodies were subsequently found, it was concluded that the fatalities were not as bad as first believed. 

The boat was not the regular ferry boat in use because the regular boat was being repaired. The substitute was the old flat scow ferry that had been used at Wells Street. It really was not fit for use. Those who crowded upon the boat in such numbers did not know its unseaworthy character. They were so impatient to cross that they took the boat out of the charge of the ferryman and left him on the shore. When the boat was a few feet from the shore, the ferryman slacked the line as a vessel approached. The coroner's verdict declared this act imprudent, but it could not have caused the accident. The over-capacity boat immediately careened because it became unbalanced as the weight shifted, and all of the passengers were thrown into the river.

The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 leveled the building.


Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Thursday, August 19, 2021

The Bes-Ben Shops. Chicago's Avant-Garde Milliner.

Benjamin 'Ben' Benedict Green-Field (1897-1988) was born in Chicago. At six, his father died, so his mother, Ida, became a milliner to support the family. After dropping out of high school, Green-Field also apprenticed in the millinery trade.

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Benjamin Benedict Green-Field's birth year, 1897, is the correct year from Rosehill Cemetery records, and everywhere else online shows Ben's birth year as 1898.

In 1919, Ben and his sister Bessie (1895-1987) opened a millinery and hat boutique on Chicago's State Street and named it Bes-Ben. 

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The difference between a Haberdasher and a Milliner is that a haberdasher is a dealer in ribbons, buttons, thread, needles, small sewing accessories and sewing goods (aka notions) while a milliner is a person who is involved in the manufacture, design, and/or the sale of hats for women.

The pair's business had grown in eight years and opened four more shops. 
Portrait of Benjamin Green-Field seated with sister Bessie, c.1920s.
Within eight years, the pair had grown their business enough to open four more shops. Though Bessie left the company shortly after getting married, Ben continued to sell hats for over fifty years, serving clients from Chicago's high society and Hollywood stars like Lucille Ball, Marlene Dietrich, Carole Landis, and Elizabeth Taylor.

Bes-Ben hats were often decorated with multiple "miniatures" of things, including dogs, owls, palm trees, lobsters, kitchen utensils, napkin rings, cigarette packages, bugs, skyscrapers, and doll furniture. The hat that Green-Field made for Hedda Hopper to wear to the film "The Razor's Edge" premiere was topped with actual razor blades!
Women's Bes-Ben hat features a navy blue straw crown decorated on the edge with six gold and brown silk floss embroidered butterflies. Three butterflies sit atop the crown. Navy diamond pattern net veil. Worn by donor's mother, Mrs. Donald F. McPherson (Frances Ogden West), grandniece of William B. Ogden, first mayor of Chicago,  c.1956
Women's hat with crown entirely covered with white, grey, blue, and yellow embroidered swans, designed by Bes-Ben, 1965.


As with many milliners of the time, the rationing of the war years caused Green Field to embrace non-traditional materials. During the WWII-era (1939-1945) interview, Green-Field said: "Anything that makes people laugh at this point in world history may be said to have its own excuse for being."

The Bes-Ben style had shifted from traditional, stylish hats to surreal and amusing designs in 1941. Green-Field's sense of humor, high design skills, and use of unique materials made his work highly sought after.
Women's Bes-Ben hat of blue and red silk velvet and green and orange cotton plush. Features organic abstract shapes decorated with the stylized face of white and orange wool felt, orange feathers, and green faceted stones. One of 5 hats specially executed in conjunction with an exhibition of the works of Pablo Picasso at the Art Institute of Chicago in 1957
Women's Bes-Ben hat of red, green, and fuchsia silk velvet, trimmed with two green plastic stones and peacock feathers. One of 5 Hats was specially constructed in conjunction with an exhibition of the works of Pablo Picasso at the Art Institute of Chicago in 1957.


Heralded as "Chicago's Mad Hatter" in the 1940s, his designs became increasingly whimsical and witty, incorporating unique elements such as kitchen utensils, dice, playing cards, cigarettes, and matchbooks.
Green-Field originally custom-made this piece for Mary Frances Ackerman, the wife of Chicago White Sox owner Bill Veeck.






Conical hat made of black tubing and beads, trimmed with three bumblebees and beaded veil,  c.1950.


The signature Bes-Ben panache extended to Green-Field's personal style as well. He loved to dress up and was fond of brocade jackets, cashmere and jewelry. He was known for his extensive wardrobe and the decorative items he collected during travels. His shop at 938 North Michigan Avenue was full of pillows he brought back from around the world and was a popular social location.
Women's Bes-Ben hat of orange woven straw with green leaves and vegetables around the crown, c.1955.

As well as a talented millinery designer, Green-Field was an astute businessman who knew how to market his hats. 
Benjamin Green-Field owned Bes-Ben and a model wearing his rabbit hat design.
Every summer, he would hold a sale where everything would be $5, a fantastic deal considering that most of his hats sold for more than $100. People would line up at 2:15 AM for a chance to grab a hat flung out to the crowd by Green-Field himself.
A crowd outside Bes-Ben's store clamors for hats at 2:15 AM, 1963, Time-Life Magazine.


It would take him an hour and a half to empty his store of around 400 hats, and then the shop would close for several weeks for a staff holiday. Green-Field would then leave on one of his famous around-the-world shopping trips; it's said he's been around the world more than 70 times, as documented by Bes-Ben's records from 1920-1988 [1].

One of his pieces, 'Independence Day,' was sold at auction for a record $18,400! The hat was adorned with an unfurled American flag with red, white, and blue firecrackers and stars.
In the 1960s, demand for hats declined. Note that men also stopped buying and wearing hats once President John F Kennedy took office in 1961 because he did not like wearing hats.

Green-Field, family, and clients generously donated more than 500 hats to the Chicago Historical Society (name changed to the "Chicago History Museum" in September 2006), plus all the trims, materials, and hat blocks from his shops. He also included many of his suits and robes from his personal wardrobe. A significant contribution funded the creation of the Benjamin B. Green-Field Gallery and the Bessie Green-Field Warshawsky (no connection to the famous auto parts magnate, Roy I. Warshawsky of Chicago's "Warshawsky and Company.") Gallery in memory of his sister.

Founded in 1974, the Costume Council supports the Chicago History Museum's work to care for, conserve, interpret, and display items in the costume collection. The Museum has maintained and grown into one of the world's premier collections through the Council's efforts, with pieces dating from the eighteenth century to the present. The Council also generously supports the Museum's costume-based exhibitions, furthering the public's understanding of history through clothing. The Chicago History Museum is home to one of the world's largest collections of Bes-Ben hats. 
The success of Bes-Ben enabled Green-Field to be a philanthropist. He founded and endowed the Benjamin B. Green-Field Foundation in 1987, an organization that continues to improve the quality of life for children and the elderly in Chicago.

Ben died at 90 or 91 and is buried at Rosehill Cemetery in the Green-Field Family Room in the Mausoleum, Chicago, Cook County, Illinois, in 1988.

VERIFIED SHOP LOCATIONS 
Bes-Ben Shop at 620 South Michigan Avenue, Chicago. 
Bes-Ben Inc., at 938 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago.

MILLINERY RETAIL SHOPS IN CHICAGO'S YELLOW PAGES
1913 = 411
1940 = 509
1963 = 158

MILLINERY SHOPS LEFT IN 2021 CHICAGOLAND
Chicago: 
    Loreta Corsetti Millinery
    Eia Millinery Design
    Optimo Hats
Skokie: 
    Chapeau Creations Hats
Glen Ellyn:
    Veiled By ChaCha

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.



[1] The Chicago History Museum holds Bes-Ben, Inc., records from 1920-1988. What's included? Ledgers, photographs, customer card index files, state time inspection records; sundry correspondence, sales slips, passports, personal account books, and other materials relating to the Bes-Ben millinery shops in Chicago operated by Benjamin Green-Field and his sister Bessie Green-Field Warshawsky. Also included are records of Ben's world travels. 

Wednesday, August 18, 2021

Marshall Field & Company covered their display windows on Sundays.

Marshall Field & Company's State Street store in 1920s Chicago.


The famous Marshall Field clock reads 9:50 am. Marshall Field was closed on Sundays and would have the display window’s drapes pulled down to discourage window shopping on Sundays. 

These drapes were also utilized when the display windows were being changed out. When mannequins were used in the window display, Marshall Field did not want naked or partially nude mannequins exposed to the public.

Early on, Marshall Field didn't allow his female sales clerks to wear makeup. I don't know when this policy changed.

Note the 'vault lights' in the sidewalk - Read my article.





Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.