Thursday, March 9, 2017

The History of Kwa̱nu’sila, “The Thunder-Maker.” The Totem Pole from Chicago's 1893 World's Fair then moved to Addison and Lake Shore Drive.

Much of the information contained in this article, was provided to me directly from Wax̱a̱widi Chief William Wasden Jr., the great-great-grandson of the original carver of Kwa̱nu’sila.


The Totem Pole that currently stands in the Lake View community at Addison Street just east of Lake Shore Drive (3510 North Recreation Drive) in Chicago, Illinois, was installed in 1986. The Lincoln Park totem pole belongs to the tradition of the Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw Indians in western British Columbia, Canada.

The Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw Indians are renowned for their woodcarving skills, including not only totem poles but also elaborately carved and painted masks.

Totem Pole sculptures belong to the tradition of several Pacific Northwest Native American tribes living in Alaska and western British Columbia and stretching south into the states of Washington and Oregon. These totem poles were placed in specific locations and served three main purposes. Some were placed on the front of a house, often framing the doorway.

Other carved poles were found in the interior of the house, acting as supports for the roof beams. And some were free-standing, erected outside a home. Poles were commissioned by chiefs or other wealthy members of the tribe to commemorate an event, memorialize a death or mark a particular location.

Many Chicagoans had their first contact with the Totem Pole Kwa̱nu’sila, “The Thunder-Maker,” during the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893.
Lincoln Park totem pole during the 1929 dedication ceremony (left).
Totem pole about 1967 (right). Note the differences, particularly in painted design.
Photos courtesy Kraft, Inc.
Franz Boas was working at Harvard’s Peabody Museum and was asked to participate in the 1893 Columbian Exposition. He had already traveled to British Columbia, where he sought out George Hunt. Hunt was the son of a Scottish Hudson Bay Company employee who married a high-ranking Tlingit woman from Alaska. 

At the time, it was practice for employees to marry First Nation women in order to gain access to communities in order to conduct trade. His father’s position was in Ft. Rupert, B.C., where the Kwakiutl’l lived. George Hunt was given full Kwakiut’l status and spoke both Kwakwa’la, the native language, as well as English. This made him a valuable informant for Boas, and they began collaborating in 1885 on Kwakiut’l ethnography, for which Hunt wrote three-quarters of Boas’ ethnography. 


Hunt assisted Boas in collecting and mounting the Columbian Exposition project, bringing Kwakiut’l to Chicago’s Jackson Park to erect a native village. After the Exposition, Boas joined the burgeoning Columbian Museum of Chicago (Later to be renamed the Field Museum of Natural History), and worked there for several years. Boas was asked to leave the museum and resumed teaching at Columbia University, becoming the “father of American Anthropology.” Boas and Hunt continued working together for decades, refining the ethnography. Boas incorrectly named all the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation as the Kwakiut’l, given their common language, though the Kwakiut’l were but one of the tribes in that language group and Nation.


It should be noted that Hunt also worked with Edward S. Curtis and was the assistant director on "In the Land of the War Canoes" (formerly called "In the Land of the Headhunters"), produced in 1914.


There is no record of George Hunt being involved in the purchase of the Kwanu’sila Totem Pole.


After the Exposition, most of the objects from the exhibit were donated to the Columbian Museum of Chicago, where many can still be seen on display today at the Field Museum.

The totem pole in Lincoln Park, however, was not from this collection. The original pole that stood at Addison and the lakefront in Lincoln Park was donated to the city in 1929 by James L. Kraft, the founder of Kraft Inc. The pole was 40 feet tall and, like many totem poles, was carved from a single cedar log.

Mr. Kraft, an accomplished lapidary and collector of jade, made trips to Alaska and the Pacific Northwest in his search for jade and other rare minerals; while on these trips, the unique art and culture of the Northwest Coast Indians attracted him. In 1926, after several years of negotiation, he purchased through intermediaries two totem poles (including the one to be placed in Lincoln Park) and a 15-foot-long feast dish; the three huge carvings were shipped to Chicago from British Columbia on railroad flatcars.


In 1927 the feast dish was given to the Wisconsin State Historical Society in Madison, and in 1952 the Historical Society loaned the dish to the Thomas Burke Memorial Washington State Museum at the University of Washington in Seattle, where it remains on exhibit.


One of the totem poles now stands on private property, "Kraftwood Gardens," of the Kraft family in northeastern Wisconsin. The other pole was laid on the Chicago River dock of a Kraft plant for three years. Finally, in 1929, James Kraft gave the pole to the City of Chicago. It was erected in Lincoln Park and officially dedicated to the schoolchildren of Chicago in June of that year. 


But the city was not kind to the sculptural landmark. The victim of carpenter ants, vandals, and the normal processes of weathering and decay, the Lincoln Park pole has undergone more than a dozen modifications since 1929. All of this restoration has been done under the direction of Kraft since it was arranged at the time of presentation that the company would continue to assume the task of maintenance. 


In 1958 the arm positions of the pole's human figure were changed because rotting had occurred in the arm sockets; one hand was moved so that it covered the figure's eyes. (A visitor observed that the figure no longer had to watch the spectacle of rush hour traffic that passed before it.) In 1966..the pole was drastically renovated: the sea monster at the base, the Thunderbird at the top, and the human figure were recarved by skilled Kraft workers. Their work appears to be a faithful attempt at restoration, but the painted symbols were inaccurately reproduced. The significance of features in the original painting, which had been more elaborate, could never have been appreciated by a restorer unacquainted with Northwest Coast art. A Kraft supervisor of the restoration has suggested that Kraft workers trying to copy the intricate symbols perhaps didn't realize how important it was to duplicate features with great accuracy. The originally painted symbols on the pole have almost totally disappeared.


Kraft has tried conscientiously to hold back and to repair the onslaughts of time as well as acts of vandalism against the pole.


In 1982 the Field Museum opened its permanent exhibit dedicated to the "Maritime Peoples of the Arctic and Northwest Coast" for the first time. Research conducted for the preparation of the exhibit brought new attention to the lakefront totem pole, and experts began to suspect the pole was of greater historical and cultural importance than anyone had realized.

As a result, members of the ‘Namgis and Kwakiut’l tribes of the Kwawkaka’wakw First Nation visited Chicago in 1985. They saw the terrible condition of the pole and mounted a limited effort to repatriate it in order to preserve it. It had been repainted with house paint and was disintegrating. A deal was struck. The Kwa̱nu’sila totem pole was to be sent to U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay, B.C., for evaluation. After realizing there was nothing to do, Tony Hunt, Jr., a relative of George Hunt and a famous carver, was commissioned to replicate it. It is that pole that now stands in Lincoln Park. 

Kraft Inc., following the example of its founder, then commissioned a new pole to take the place of the original. The totem pole which stands today at Addison Street and Lake Shore Drive was unveiled on May 21, 1986, and it is a faithful replica of the 1929 totem pole that restored the form and colors of that pole as it looked before it was damaged by botched restoration attempts. A sea monster with a lively expression forms the base of the pole, while a whale balances on top of it with its tail in the air. The pole is topped by a thunderbird with its wings outstretched and which grips the whale's tail.

Tony Hunt Sr. carved the current lakefront totem pole, which is called Kwa̱nu’sila. Hunt is the hereditary chief of the Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw tribe of Fort Rupert, British Columbia. He is also an internationally renowned artist whose work in wood, carved in the Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw tradition, can be found in collections such as the St. Louis Art Museum, the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, and Chicago's own Field Museum.
Tony Hunt Sr. is also a descendant of the same George Hunt who brought the Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw to the World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago more than a hundred years ago. So, that he should be the artist responsible for the lakefront totem pole seems both meaningful and appropriate.

Kwa̱nu’sila is a special and important work of public sculpture in Chicago. And although it was completed in 1986, the totem pole by the lake has a story that goes back to the 19th century.


This information was provided to me by Wax̱a̱widi Chief William Wasden Jr., great-great-grandson of the original carver of the totem pole Kwa̱nu’sila that Kraft bought.

The Totem Pole Kwa̱nu’sila “The Thunder-Maker.” Originally from Alert Bay, BC, Canada.

The owner and carver of the Kwa̱nu’sila totem pole is identified in Marius Barbeau’s book titled “Totem Poles” by Chief Daniel Cranmer, who identifies this man as Chief T̓łakwagila “The Copper-Maker.” This man was also known as Wax̱a̱widi “Canoes Come to Him,” who was a Clan Chief and the owner of the third traditional Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw Big House coming from the south end of the ‘Na̱mgis village at Alert Bay. The house ownership with his family and extended family is recorded in housing censuses done annually by George Blenkinsop for the early Canadian government starting circa. 1879. The present family has stated that the traditional family name is “I’nis”, and this name appears in potlatch ledgers and government and church records. On Wax̱a̱widi’s oldest daughter Alice Esther’s death certificate, his given Christian names are Samuel Alvin and his wife’s name is listed as “unknown.” This man was commonly known by his “Play Potlatch name,” T̓łaxw ’sam meaning “Red Cod.”

On the marriage certificate of his granddaughter Emma, his daughter Alice has given her name as Esther Alice “T̓łaxw̱ ’sam.” Wax̱a̱widi and T̓łaxw̱ ’sam is also identified as the same man in a tape-recorded interview with Mrs. Moses Alfred was known as Axa̱ ̱wa.

The totem pole “Kwa̱nu’sila” stood outside of the house of “T̓łax̱w’sa̱m,” the pole was purchased from him by the Kraft Foundation.

The crests on the totem represent the history of the Gigi̱lg̱a̱m “First Ones” clan of the ‘Na̱mg̱is Tribe. There are now four clans, and the Gigi̱lg̱a̱m are seated as the second in the social order. This clan was founded by a Thunderbird named Kwa̱nu’sila, who transformed into a man to start this particular tribe.


This is our story told by my Great-great-grandmother G̱a’ax̱stalas, Mrs. Jane Cook: 
The Legend of Kwanu’sila, and ‘Namugwadzalas told by Mrs. Stephen Cook.

‘Namugwadzalas was the first man of one of the clans of the ‘Namgis Tribe of Indians. He was camped on the Nimpkish River just below the lake at the time of this story. Udzo’las “Flat Place” is the name of the present site of the fishing village of the ‘Namgis.

This man became tired of the migratory life he was living and wanted a permanent home, so in his mind, he made a plan for the present type of Indian Community House. To build it, he secured and prepared huge cedar timbers; each shaped and cut with a hand adze. He put in the huge posts and cross pieces, but he had not foreseen that he could not put up alone the huge ridge beams, and so when all was ready, he found to his sorrow, that he could not lift the big timbers into place. When he realized this, he was very sad. He sat out on the bank of the river and could have cried had he not been a brave man. As he sat there feeling so glum, he looked across the river and saw a huge Thunderbird sitting on a large stone.

He said to the bird, “If you were only an intelligent human being, what help you could be to me with your great strength.” The Thunderbird said to him, “Why, I am human, what do you wish?” As he spoke, he lifted up the visor of the Thunderbird costume and showed his face, the face of a man. “I wish you could help me to put up the beams on my house,” said the man. “Surely,” said the Thunderbird, who closed up his visor and flew up and alighted in the middle of the big beam and seized it with his enormous claws, carrying it up and placing it in position on the posts.

He then asked the man what his building was to be. ‘Namugwadzalas told him of his idea of building for himself and his people a permanent home. The Thunderbird said it was a grand idea. “I think,” said he, “I will join you, and together we will form a tribe.”  Then the brave ‘Namugwadzalas told him that he would rejoice in his company.

So the Thunderbird undressed of his thunder dress and sent it back to the heavens with these words, “Go back to your home, and take heed that you thunder not out of season. At one time only shall your voice roar forth, and that only if one of my future posterity is near to the borders of death.”

This is the legend of the Thunderbird, telling why its spreading wings adorn all totems of the ‘Na̱mgis Tribe. It is still believed that when there is thunder over the Nimpkish River, one of the Tribes or line of the ‘Na̱mgis is in danger of death, near death, or dead.


Another version of the same story, including the other crests on the Kwa̱nu’sila Totem: Story of the Totem Pole belonging to the Gigi̱lg̱a̱m as told by Chief Ha̱mdzida̱g̱a̱me’ Charles Nowell.

A man up ‘Na̱mg̱is River named “Gwa’ni” near the lake, he was a steelhead salmon before he became a man. When the Great Flood began, he assumed his steelhead dress again and stood behind a rock at a place called U’dzolas. When the Flood receded, he became a man again. His name was X̱wax̱wasa “Easily Excited.” He began to make his house at U’dzolas. He had the posts up and boards and was making the beams. When he finished it, he sat down, wondering how he was going to raise them up.

Suddenly a big bird flew down and sat on the rocks at the bank of the river. It was the Thunderbird Kwi̱nkwi̱nxwa̱lige’. X̱wax̱wasa turned around and saw Kwi̱nkwi̱nxwa̱lige’ and said, “I wish you were a man to help me raise these beams. I don’t know how to raise these beams by myself.” This bird raised his mask and said, “I am a man! I came on purpose to help you.” He put back his headdress and flew up, and came to the middle of the beam, grabbed it with his claws, and flew up to lift it up on top of the posts. Then he sat on the rocks where he was before. Then X̱wax̱wasa said, “I wish you would stay with me because I am all alone. We’ll build another house below mine.” So Thunderbird says, “I’ll do that.” He took off his bird clothing and said to his clothing, “You go up! But don’t make thunder too often. Whenever there will be death among the people that come after me, make thunder.” This man’s name was Gi̱lg̱a̱m “The First One,” and he became the ancestor of the Gigi̱lg̱a̱m 'na̱mima “clan.” Kwa̱nu’silawe’ are the descendants of the Kwi̱nkwi̱nxwa̱lige.’ This is their name when they use the Thunderbird for their crest.

Gigi̱lg̱a̱m ‘na̱mima has a totem pole with a Thunderbird on top, a whale below, and on the back of the whale is a man holding a spear (he is X̱wax̱wasa, and on the bottom is the head of the ‘Na̱mx̱iyalagiyu the Halibut-Like Sea Monster (this is the creature with a man on its back that went to Xwa̱lkw).


The following information regarding the crest figures was taken from information collected from the Kraft Foundation, and it is clear that the information is mixed up concerning the other pole purchased from Alert Bay from another family at the same time:

At the top of the pole stands the Thunderbird (the other pole has a Ḵulus, another species of a supernatural bird covered in thick white down and a blueish-green beak and only feathered plumes on its head), one of the most ancient of the Indian symbols, a sacred and all-powerful being. According to legend, the mighty Thunderbird has his powerful talons fastened deep in the quivering flesh of a great Baleen Whale, on whose broad back the universe rests.

The Steelhead Man, the historic tribal founder, is the carved figure standing in relief, with a raised lance, against the body of the Whale. This carving tells how the Steelhead Man, transformed from a Steelhead Salmon at the Nimpkish River after the Great Flood, meets with his Creator, the Thunderbird, who helps him rear his dwelling, set up his tribe, and overcome all human and fabulous sea monsters.

The carving just below the Steelhead Man represents the great victory of a warrior’s daughter over the fabulous double-headed monster of the sea, the “Sisiyutł.” The princess-daughter approached one day on the river bank by this fearsome monster is given miraculous strength. In her hands is placed a divinely sharpened spear by the ever-protecting Thunderbird. She smites the monster and is honored by her tribe. The warriors of the tribe vie with one another for favor with her.

The blowhole of the great Whale is a warrior’s face. It references the legend about the princess who slays the double-headed serpent to take the supernatural power of the serpent for her own and becomes a powerful warrior amongst her tribe.

The base figure and what represents our grandfather's (ancestor's) crest holds up the history and cultural obligations of the family. Amongst Kwakwa̱ka̱’wakw culture, the “low man on the totem pole” is the foundation and strength of the family, our paternal ancestry. Quite the opposite of the Western saying about the low man on the totem pole. The base figure is the head of an important sea monster that has come to be the famous prized crest of the ‘Na̱mg̱is Tribe.


This story comes from the first clan in the social order of the ‘Na̱mg̱is:
Legend of the Tsitsał̱ ’walaga̱ ̱me’ “Famous Ones” 1st Clan of the ‘Namgis.

In ancient times, many of our first ancestors came to the world as animals or supernatural beings that transformed into people and began our tribes. After some time, the first people became bad and were very disrespectful to each other and mainly the animals and the land. The Iki Giga̱ ̱me’ “Great Chief Above” was going to send a huge flood that would cleanse the earth and create a new beginning. There were some people who were to be spared from this great catastrophe due to their respect and following of the ancient ways. Some of these people were sent messages through dreams or visions about the flood that was to come.

One ancestor of the ‘Na̱mgis Tribe was sent a message from the Creator in a dream that when the flood came, the great Halibut-Like Sea Monster ‘Na̱mx̱iyalagiyu “Only One” would rise from the depths of the ocean to come and take him to a place where he would be protected for the duration of the flood. This man waited on the beach out in front of his village at the mouth of the river when it began to rain and never stopped for a very long time. This man waited and waited until the water had risen to very high levels and was standing in the water that had risen up to his neck. He had almost given up believing that he would be saved and was ready to run and try and seek refuge.

Then a great swell came from the sea, and the water levels began to drop. Out of the ocean surfaced ‘Na̱mx̱iyalagiyu that swam to the beach and allowed the man to climb on and walk towards its back. This creature was so big that the man appeared to be a small speck on the rim of the monster. The man was bestowed with supernatural power and the ability to breathe underwater and was then carried to the bottom of the ocean. He was taken there for a great length of time. The flood was said to have lasted a very long time, and the tides were extremely rough around the world. A great number of people perished during this time.

When the flood receded, ‘Namx̱iyalagiyu surfaced from the depths of the sea and returned the man to the shore at his home at Xwalkw “Foundation” and then returned to its home under the ocean. During the Great Flood, the former people that did not survive were transformed into animals and stones.

The man looked around the land and saw that there were no other survivors; therefore, he called himself ‘Na̱mukustolis “Having Come to the Earth as the Only One”. In time, ‘Namukustolis grew lonely, so he made a snare and caught seagulls that he transformed into people. These people became his tribe, and he married one of the women. Soon, he had a son called Nage’ “Mountain.” Together, he and his son kept a fire going on the beach and were always sitting beside it.

Then one day, Ka̱̓ ’niki’lakw the “Transformer” in his canoe, passed their way and landed at Xwa̱lkw. He sat down by them at their fire in such a way that ‘Na̱mukustolis and Nage’ were sitting on one side and him on the opposite. He wanted to test his spiritual power with them, so he put some fish, which he had with him by the fire, and roasted it. Na̱ge’ wished to eat some of this fish, so his father held his hand underneath it and caught the fat dripping down and gave it to his son to taste. Ka ’niki’lakw took the fish and broke it, and gave it to them to eat. He thought that they would die because it was really a Sisiyutł “Double-Headed Serpent,” but to his surprise, it didn’t harm them.

‘Namukustolis himself had a Sisiyutł, which he roasted and gave to Ka̱̓ ’niki’lakw to eat in return. Ka̱̓ ̓niki’lakw was very surprised at this. Then Ka̱̓’niki’lakw tried to transform the two into a pair of ducks. He succeeded, but after a short time, they both became human again. They sat down by the fire again, and Ka̱̓ niki’lakw then transformed them into two large mountains. Again, the two soon regained their human shape. Then he transformed them into a pair of kingfishers. These too soon became human again.

‘Nam̱ ukustolis also transformed Ka̱̓’niki’lakw three times but was not able to prevent him from assuming his real shape each time. Thus, when Ka̱̓’niki’lakw saw that he was unable to defeat them, he made friends with them and journeyed on. At this time ‘Namukustolis went up into the valley to see if there were any other survivors. When he found no one, he returned back down the small river and then assumed the name Gwa’nalalis “Coming Down River in this World.”

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 



Wax̱a̱widi Chief William Wasden Jr. Note:
I am grateful to Judy Hoffman for asking me to give our history and connection to this totem pole to Dr. Neil Gale, an Illinois Historian and Author, for publication. 

Much has been written and published by “expert authors” who do not consider our present-day knowledge as valuable or worthy. In ancient times, stories were guarded cultural property, and only those who came from the stories and histories were permitted to tell them, and this makes complete sense. Why would you tell someone else’s story, especially when they are capable, and they have the connection, we call it respect. 

Today, I am honored to say that I carry my great-great-grandfather’s name and cultural position of Wax̱a̱widi. My late grandmother and her older sister knew their maternal great-grandfather. They chose me to uphold our traditional responsibilities to his name and our people and to learn who our family is and our history.

Thank you, Dr. Neil Gale, for helping us share the truths about our history represented on the totem pole named “Kwa̱nu’sila.”

Looking East from the Top of Willis (Sears) Tower at Wacker Drive and Jackson Boulevard, Chicago, Illinois.

Looking east fron the top of Willis (Sears) Tower at Wacker Drive and Jackson Boulevard, Chicago, IL.

Wednesday, March 8, 2017

Piggly Wiggly Grocery Store, 106 S. Austin (at Madison), Oak Park, Illinois. 1926

Piggly Wiggly Grocery Store, 106 S Austin at Madison, Oak Park, Illinois. Chicago Daily News - 1926.
Piggly Wiggly was the first true self-service grocery store. It was founded on September 6, 1916 (although it did not open until five days later due to construction delays) at 79 Jefferson Avenue in Memphis, Tennessee, by Clarence Saunders.

Piggly Wiggly was the first grocery store to:
  • Provide checkout stands.
  • Price mark every item in the store.
  • First to use shopping carts.
  • Give shoppers more for their food dollar through high volume/low-profit margin retailing.
  • Feature a full line of nationally advertised brands.
  • Use refrigerated cases to keep produce fresh.
  • Put employees in uniforms for cleaner, more sanitary food handling.
  • Design and use patented fixtures and equipment throughout the store.
  • Franchise independent grocers to operate under the self-service method of food merchandising.
Clarence Saunders' (founder) reason for choosing the intriguing name "Piggly Wiggly" remains a mystery; he was curiously reluctant to explain its origin. One story says that, while riding a train, he looked out his window and saw several little pigs struggling to get under a fence, which prompted him to think of the rhyme.

Someone once asked him why he had chosen such an unusual name for his organization, to which he replied, "So people will ask that very question." Regardless of his inspiration, he succeeded in finding a name that would be talked about and remembered. 

The John Bull Locomotive at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago, Illinois.

John Bull is a British-built railroad steam locomotive that operated in the United States. It was operated for the first time on September 15, 1831, and it became the oldest operable steam locomotive in the world when the Smithsonian Institution operated it in 1981.
Built by Robert Stephenson and Company, the John Bull was initially purchased by and operated for the Camden and Amboy Railroad, the first railroad in New Jersey, which gave John Bull the number 1 and its first name, "Stevens". (Robert L. Stevens was president of the Camden and Amboy Railroad at the time.). The C&A used the locomotive heavily from 1833 until 1866, when it was removed from active service and placed in storage.

After the C&A's assets were acquired by the Pennsylvania Railroad (PRR) in 1871, the PRR refurbished and operated the locomotive a few times for public displays: it was fired up for the Centennial Exposition in 1876 and again for the National Railway Appliance Exhibition in 1883. In 1884 the locomotive was purchased by the Smithsonian Institution as the museum's first major industrial exhibit. The locomotive's first public exhibition at the Smithsonian occurred on December 22, 1884.

The 1893 World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago.
The most significant display occurred in 1893 when the locomotive traveled to Chicago for the World's Columbian Exposition. The Pennsylvania Railroad (PRR), like many other railroads of the time, put on grand displays of their progress; the PRR arranged for the locomotive and a couple of coaches to be delivered to the railroad's Jersey City, New Jersey, workshops where it would undergo a partial restoration to operating condition. The PRR was planning an event worthy of the locomotive's significance to American railroad history — the railroad actually planned to operate the locomotive for the entire distance between New Jersey and Chicago.

Governors of all the states that the locomotive was to pass through and the President of the United States, Grover Cleveland, were invited to ride behind the engine on its first leg toward Chicago. The John Bull was to pull a few passenger cars in a train that would carry dignitaries and representatives of the press.

The train traveled to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in the charge of one locomotive crew. From Philadelphia, local train engineers were employed to ride on the locomotive's footplate as pilots to advise the operators for the trip over the local engineers' territories for the rest of the journey to Chicago.

Traveling at 25 to 30 miles per hour, the train departed from the Pennsylvania Railroad's Jersey City station at 10:16 a.m. on it's 912 mile journey. On April 17th and reached Chicago on April 22nd. The locomotive operated during the exhibition giving rides to the exhibition's attendees, and then the train left Chicago on December 6th for the return trip to Washington. The locomotive arrived back in Washington on December 13th.

About John Bull.
Hamilton Daily Democrat article, March 31, 1892.
Reading Pennsylvania - A fatal accident occurred on the Frankville branch of the Reading railroad last night. A large engine with a train, which was coming down the steep grade, got beyond the control of the crew, and ran away. After running several miles the locomotive collided with a light engine, wrecking both, derailing a number of cars and instantly killing Joseph Troy, andJohn Baner, breakmen of the light engine. John Bull, another train man, was fatally injured. The engineers and others of the crew escaped by jumping before the crash came. 

Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Central Station, Chicago Terminal. Also known as the Illinois Central Depot.

Not to be confused with Chicago's Grand Central Station or Great Central Station (aka Great Central Depot).

Central Station was an intercity passenger terminal in downtown Chicago, Illinois, at the southern end of Grant Park near Twelfth Street (Roosevelt Road, today) and Michigan Avenue. The Romanesque Revival structure, designed by Bradford L. Gilbert, was built and owned by the Illinois Central Railroad. The project boasted of having the "largest train shed in the world," at over 85,000 square feet. 
Illinois Central Depot, Chicago. circa 1901
Illinois Central Railroad opened April 17, 1893, replacing the "Great Central Station" (located at the site of the current Millennium Station), to meet the traffic demands of the World's Columbian Exposition at a cost of $1.2 million ($37.2 million today). The nine-story building featured a 13-story clock tower and housed the Illinois Central Railroad general offices. It boasted the largest train shed in the world at the time, which measured 140 by 610 feet. 
Illinois Central Station. circa 1893
Also sharing the station was the Michigan Central Railroad, part of the New York Central Railroad system, which had shared the IC's terminal from its opening in 1852.
View of the Central Station and Illinois Central offices from Michigan Boulevard. Postcard circa 1911.
It closed on March 5, 1972, when Amtrak rerouted services to Union Station. The station building was demolished on June 3, 1974. It is now a residential development called Central Station, Chicago. 

Central Station is a Chicago neighborhood within the Near South Side community of Chicago.
Central Station in February 1971
The front of Central Station shows the large Illinois Central sign. Note the Magikist sign on the far left (from the mid-1940s).
The rear of Central Station in February 1971, showing the large Illinois Central sign.
Adjoining platforms served the suburban trains of the Illinois Central, electrified in 1926 (now called the Metra Electric Line), and the South Shore Line interurban railroad. Both lines continued north to Randolph Street. 

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

Washington Heights Postal Station, Chicago, Illinois, 1895.

Washington Heights Postal Station, Chicago, Illinois, 1895.
In 1894, the delivery area of the Chicago Post Office almost doubled with Chicago annexing many suburbs. This provided free home delivery to nearly 97% of the city's inhabitants when 59 independent Post Offices "now within the City of Chicago boundaries" were consolidated within the Chicago Post Office.

Most of the discontinued Post Offices, like Washington Heights, were converted to stations of the Chicago Post Office which provided full service to customers but were administratively subordinate to the Chicago Post Office a technicality which allowed the stations’ customers to receive free home delivery of mail. 

Monday, March 6, 2017

The Founding of Orangeville, Illinois.

In the days of the settlement of the West, many towns were named for some prominent settler or land owner. But in the case of the town of Orangeville, nobody knows for sure.

It is speculated that some of the early Pennsylvanians who arrived in that vicinity might have come from Orangeville, Pennsylvania. The town’s early history is intriguing nonetheless. Let's explore it as it is depicted in the “History of Stephenson County 1970,” a local publication in keeping with the national bicentennial observance.

In the Beginning
In 1838, three years after the founding of Freeport, Illinois, John Curtis built a small dam on Richland Creek and constructed a grist mill, a sawmill, and a log cabin. However Curtis died in the early 1840s leaving his efforts idle.  However, in 1846, John Bower purchased the land, had it surveyed and platted a town on the east side of the creek.

Not so strangely he named it Bowersville and brought wagon loads of lumber from Galena and Chicago to entice settlers to the village carrying his name. It is believed that the first ones to accept his invitation were Daniel Duck, origin unknown, and Daniel Riem, who came from Pennsylvania by horse and wagon with only $3 to his name. It is said he sold one of his horses for $50 to buy the land and his wagon for enough to fence the land in.The history tells us his family lived the first year in a “shanty with a leaky roof.”

The second year a neighbor gave him a log cabin which he tore down and rebuilt on his farm. By the beginning of the third year, he had finished a good house and converted the log cabin into his cabinet-making shop.

A larger and better mill, three and a half stories high, was built in 1849 at the corner of High and Mill streets. With its three-run of buhrs, it could grind 200 bushels of grain a day. That was true if Richland Creek behaved itself and did not flood the town as was known to happen in that vicinity.

The aforementioned John Bower built the first hotel. The Frink & Walker’s General Stage Coach came to Bowersville once a week at first and twice a week later, carrying passengers and mail. 
The Stagecoach wasn't as glamorous as the movies made them out to be.
Benjamin and James Musser built the first store in Orangeville. In 1854, a post office was established and the name of the village was somehow changed to “Orangeville.” William Wagenhals was the first postmaster.
Central House is an 1860s hotel building located in the 800-person village of Orangeville, in Stephenson County, Illinois. The building was built by Orangeville founder John Bower and operated as a hotel from its construction until the 1930s, when it was converted for use as a single family residence. The three-story building was the first commercial brick structure in downtown Orangeville. Architecturally, the building is cast in a mid-19th-century Italianate style. Central House was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 1999.
A Strange Infestation
The history tells us the years 1859 to 1861 were known in Orangeville as the “pigeon years.” It explains that passenger pigeons roosted and had their hatching grounds at the north end of the township, “and in the mornings the roar could be heard for miles and sounded like the distant roar of a train or waterfall. When the birds left their roosts in the morning or returned at night, they were so numerous as to darken the sky so that it seemed a cloud was obscuring the sun. Sportsmen came from far away and camped to see and shoot them.”

In 1866, Charles Moore and his son, E.L. Moore, bought the mill and renamed it, not surprisingly, “Moore’s Mill.” The original mill was rebuilt in 1867. Subsequent owners over the years were men named Hefty and Legger. In 1902, Sylvester LaBorde took charge and in 1906, his brother Alva took over. C. W. Bennett bought the mill in 1907 and built a new dam, installed a gasoline engine and started the village’s first electric plant.

Becoming a Full-Fledged Village.
As soon as Orangeville became a village, things began to happen. Charles Moore was named president and William Wagenhals, George Erb, W.S. St. John and Jacob Kurtz were trustees. Soon the village government was building bridges, installing oil street lamps and in 1895, building a village hall on High Street. The waterworks was built in 1897, and a brick water tower went up in 1910.In 1911, C.W. Bennett installed 20 electric street lights for $500. These, we’re told, were turned off at 11 p.m.

The vigilant village board made a ruling in December 1886 that the Freeport-to-Monroe stage could not stop inside the village limits if it was carrying dynamite. Ironically, though, dynamite was to figure in mightily in the village’s destiny. The history tells us that while the contractor for the completion of the Illinois Central Railroad branch from Freeport to Madison, Wis., was grading the line in 1887, there was a strike which resulted in the hiring of a new gang.It so happened a careless workman who was “drying out the dynamite in an oven allowed it to catch fire and set off the caps. The resulting explosion of 200 pounds of dynamite and a half-ton of black powder stored nearby made the townspeople think there had been an earthquake.”

In 1887 when the railroad reached Orangeville, daily mail service had begun and a grain elevator, depot and stockyards were built making use of the rails. 

An Enterprising Village
James Musser and his brother Benjamin opened a general store in 1866 which the history tells us “soon became one of the largest in northern Illinois.” In 1879 James Musser added the first banking and loan business in the back of his store. Other businesses soon to appear were a drug store, shoemaker, saddle and harness making shop, plus a gunsmith who also made watches.

The large Orangeville creamery was started in 1879 by D.A. Schoch and Harrison Bolender. The cooler could hold 180,000 pounds of butter, and it took 180 tons of ice to maintain a year-round temperature of 40 degrees. The 10 employees ran machinery which churned 1,400 pounds of butter a day. When the original owners retired, they sold it to a corporation which ran it until 1915.

For a number of years, Milferd Bolender’s coin business attained wide interest and was known nationally by collectors. 
The Borden Dairy Company had a plant in Orangeville from 1917 until 1933. The quarters of that became the home of a cheese factory beginning in 1935, first by the Lakeshire Marty Co., and then after 1955, by the Lugano Cheese Co. which made pizza cheese. The factory was closed in 1968.

The first Orangeville newspaper, known as the Alert, commenced publishing in 1883, but was taken over in 1889 by The Courier. The latter was published by half-brothers, William McCall and Frederick Winter. The history tells us that McCall was the son of Brigadier General William H. McCall Sr., who served in the West during the Civil War and had “the painful duty to adjust the black caps on (Lincoln’s assassin) Booth and his accomplices before they were executed.

”William Jr. grew up in Oneco with his grandparents. His son, James E. McCall, was author and illustrator of a book he wrote about his World War II imprisonment by the Japanese.

McCall and Winter were followed on the Courier by Harry Hartzell, who sold it to Stiver Clay in 1938. The Courier soon became one of the chain of newspapers owned by Associated Publishers of Durand. For 23 years, the regathering and reporting was done by Mrs. Glen Bolender. The Courier, at the time the history was published, had become a section in the “large combined paper Scope.”

by Harriett Gustason, The Journal-Standard.
Editor Neil Gale, Ph.D. 

Friday, March 3, 2017

Lost Towns of Illinois - Half Way, Illinois & Halfway, Illinois

There were two villages named Halfway, Illinois, both being in Williamson County, at different times and at different locations.
THE FIRST HALFWAY, ILLINOIS: 1894-1911

Half Way, Illinois was an unincorporated settlement in northeastern Williamson County, Illinois located about halfway between Marion and Corinth, Illinois.

Joseph Williams owned a general store in section 25 of Lake Creek Township, just a mile east from the spot where Vancleve Hendrickson opened the Oak Hill post office in his home on his farm (on the west township line in section 30 of Corinth Township) on October 30, 1871 and became its postmaster. James Hearn bought the farm and became the new postmaster on November 11, 1872. The post office was closed on December 15, 1876 and the Oak Hill community was without a post office for 18 years.

Williams’ store was across the road from his farmhouse. Williams opened a post office in his store on February 5, 1895 and named it Half Way.
Joseph H. Williams Dry Goods and Groceries.
In 1899, Williams sold his store to James Chadwell, the grandson of the early Preacher at the Corinth Zion Methodist Episcopal Church, and he became the postmaster on May 20, 1899. Chadwell sold to the Riggs brothers, Albert and Nicholas. Albert became postmaster on June 14, 1905. Williams sold his store to his grandson, Reverend James Chadwell and he became the postmaster on May 20, 1906. Chadwell sold to Riggs Brothers, Albert and Nicholis, and Albert became postmaster June 14, 1905.

The new town of Pittsburg R.F.D. Illinois[1], began in 1905 and Albert Riggs became its first postmaster on December 8, 1906. Nicholis Riggs became the postmaster of Half Way, the same day, and remained in that position until the post office was closed December 15, 1911.

THE SECOND HALFWAY ILLINOIS: 1916-1927
Nicknamed: Little Juarez

Halfway was a rough and very wet unincorporated settlement nicknamed "Little Juarez" in Williamson County, Illinois. The nickname "Little Juarez" came about from the general lawlessness, shootings and proliferation of gambling and booze, even during Prohibition.

One of the earliest references to the community dates to September 1916 when the circuit judge, D. T. Hartwell, issued an injunction against 31 saloons and clubs in nearby Herrin restraining them from "selling intoxicating liquors of any kind." The sheriff and his deputy (and future prohibition era Sheriff) George Galligan served the court injunctions on establishments on the 9th. A few days later one of the Marion newspapers noted that "Herrin is again dry," and that "now Energy and Halfway will become points of interest to Herrin tourists."
Following the onslaught of nationwide prohibition in 1920, Halfway became an even bigger destination with saloons (speakeasies) on just about all corners. Charlie Birger, an area bootlegger and gangster became the best known of the local operators. The speakeasy's became targets of Klan raids in 1923 and early 1924, followed by two targeted fires which eventually destroyed all of the buildings but Birger's.

On October 7, 1924, Birger's speakeasy burned at Halfway. This was one of the buildings which had been closed for a year under a government injunction and was where one room had been used for the sale of refreshments contrary to the law while the other had been prepared for a dance hall although it had not been opened when the injunction went into effect. At that time it was reported that it was controlled by Charlie Birger. The origin of the fire is unknown. The building was of frame and it and all its contents were a total loss.

In June 1925, a reporter described what was left. "For nearly a year, the lone building (Birger's joint) stood alone on the state concrete highway but nothing now remains but weeds, charred wood and broken bottles." Before the fires and the raids, "saloons, dance floors, restaurants and sleeping rooms made up the settlement."

Halfway's demise happened when the Coal Belt Electric Train Line experienced decreasing passengers. It was a commuter electric rail system that tied, Johnston City, Herrin, Carterville, Fordville (Energy) Halfway (Little Jureaz) Spillertown, and Marion via the commuter rail system. This train service cease operations in 1927.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.


[1] Rural Free Delivery (RFD) is a service which began in the United States in the late 19th century, to deliver mail directly to rural farm families. Prior to RFD, individuals living in more remote homesteads had to pick up mail themselves at sometimes distant post offices or pay private carriers for delivery.

Special thanks to David W. Jent's, Great-Great Grandson of J.H. Williams, founding Postmaster of Halfway #1, for location corrections and additional historical details. 

Thursday, March 2, 2017

Lost Communities of Chicago - Mopetown

Mopetown was a tiny neighborhood tucked in between the Bridgeport and McKinley Park neighborhoods. Mopetown's borders were from Ashland to Hoyne Avenues and from 31st Street to 33rd Street.
Mopetown grew up as a collection of cottages inside a triangle surrounded by the tracks of the Santa Fe and the Chicago and Alton railroad lines.

The residents were a mix of Irish, German, Italian, Polish, English and Bohemian. The name Mopetown came from a German family name that somehow was translated to "Mope." 

Mopetown was one of the last places in the city to get paved streets and sidewalks. The neighborhood was impossible to find. Pizza delivery? Forget it! Mopetown was isolated. Wolcott was the only street that gained access to the neighborhood.
No one ever worried about their electric bill because they never got one.
Just about everyone had a 'jumper,' an illegal tap to the utility pole.
The death blow to Mopetown came from the Stevenson Expressway (I-55) which wiped out much of it. The City of Chicago condemned the houses, the families moved away, they tore the houses down, leveled the neighborhood and built the expressway. After the expressway was built, there were six houses left. Then there were four. Then there were two.

"I remember Mopetown with good memories, oh, yes, I do," said Edith Vitalo, a South Sider who lived there on 31st Place as a child. "It was a desolate area out there, past Archer by the tracks, with all prairie around it. We were all as poor as church mice and everyone knew everybody else. Nobody had nothing, so there were no jealousies. We all shared what we had."

"During the tough times, during the Depression and Prohibition, a lot of them made ends meet by making booze -- white lightning," said Hopkins' wife, Janet. Her uncle, Dennis Starr, a local Republican organizer, held political meetings in the back of Funk's Pool Hall and was called 'The Mayor of Mopetown.' 

"My family was quite poor then when we'd go down to Mopetown to see Uncle Dennis and Aunt Ellie Starr," Janet Hopkins said. "You could always get something to eat down there. I remember my Aunt Ellie would be standing in the kitchen of her small cottage over a black fire-burning stove. She'd be wearing her apron and Uncle Dennis' shoes, and there'd be two big pots cooking on the stove. One was homemade soup and one was homemade white lightning. The houses that sold the hooch down there were called 'blind pigs.' Uncle Dennis ran one, and you never knew who'd you meet in Uncle Dennis' house down in Mopetown."

"It was an easy place to raise kids and a great little place to live," said Mary Wilkens, whose tidy house belies the expressway traffic that rumbles past her front door. "My windows were always open, my door was always open and the kids could sleep outside on the porch. Everyone had big families, everyone was poor and everyone watched out for each other."
"No one in Mopetown went hungry or went cold during the tough times," Mary Wilkens said. "We all walked the track," she said, referring to Mopetowners' habit of going over to the railroad tracks and getting coal that fell off the railroad cars [to heat their homes]. They also would go over to the railroad yard where the train employees habitually threw out sacks of fruit and vegetables because there would be some spoilage.

Russell Wilkens and his wife, Mary -- the last family -- in the last house, in Mopetown has finally moved out in 1990. The Wilken's family had to. One side of their simple brick-frame home at 1845 West 31st Place simply crumbled and collapsed. The old place couldn't remain standing any longer.

Understandably, Mary Wilkens, 71, the last housewife remaining in Mopetown, left with tears in her eyes. "We've lived here in Mopetown for 60 years," she said. "I loved it down there. We had all sorts of privacy. We were the hidden neighborhood. The kids could run free, you could move and breathe and never lock a door. It was paradise even though nobody was rich. But it's over now. Mopetown has disappeared into a dream and I'm still alive. I'm lost not living down here anymore."

So that's it for Mopetown. It doesn't exist anymore... except in historical stories like this one.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.