Saturday, February 18, 2017

The Old Town Neighborhood in Chicago was "COOL" in the 1950s, 'HIP' in the 60s and 'FAB' in the 70s. The History with over 70 photographs.


In historical writing and analysis, PRESENTISM is the introduction of present-day ideas and perspectives into depictions or interpretations of the past. I believe presentism is a form of cultural bias, and it creates a distorted understanding of the subject matter. Reading modern notions of morality into the past is committing the error of presentism. I'm well aware that historical accounts are written by people and can be slanted, so I try my hardest to present articles that are fact-based and well researched, without interjecting any of my personal opinions.

NOTE: I present articles without regard to race, color, political party, religion, national origin, citizenship status, gender, age, disability, or military status. What I present are facts — NOT ALTERNATIVE FACTS — about the subject.
 What you won't find are rumors, lies, unfounded claims, character assassinations, hateful statements, insults, or attempts at humor.
PLEASE PRACTICE HISTORICISM, WHICH IS THE
INTERPRETATION OF THE PAST IN ITS OWN CONTEXT.


THE OLD TOWN TRIANGLE HISTORY
In the late 1800s and early 1900s, today's Old Town area was known as "Cabbage Patch" from the German immigrants that grew potatoes, celery, and cabbages on the marshy land. The area was then called "North Town" (not Nortown) as it straddled North Avenue, which was the northern boundary of Chicago.

On October 14, 1948, about 25 neighborhood residents met to discuss improving what was referred to as Old Town (the attribution of which is generally credited to Charles Collins of the Chicago Tribune in 1944). At that time, the “founders” referred to themselves as "The Clark, Ogden, North Triangle," later shortened to "The Triangle" until September 20, 1951, when members voted to officially change the name to the "Old Town Triangle Association," which was initially sponsored by the North Side Planning Council, a Chicago city agency.

During World War II, the triangular area bordered by North Avenue, Clark Street, and Ogden Avenue, which ran up to Lincoln Park until the 1960s, was designated a “neighborhood defense unit” by the Chicago Civil Defense Corps.
1940s North Town Triangle
NOTE: According to a 2008 Tribune article, Old Town is  bounded by Division Street (south) to Armitage Avenue (north), and Clark Street (west) to Halsted Street (east).
The first President elected to the Old Town Triangle Association was James Beverly
Helen Guilbert and Sara Jane Wells were two movers and shakers regarding trees in the Triangle, plant flowering “Hopa” crabapple trees in 1959. They watered the trees with the help of area residents loaning their garden hoses to water the trees by their houses for the months it took for the trees to stabilize and then letting mother nature take over.

When Bob Switzer passed away, he endowed the OTTA with funds to improve the parkways in the late 1970s.

THE MENOMONEE BOYS CLUB
The Menomonee Boys Club, a not-for-profit organization, was founded in 1946 by a group of concerned Old Town neighbors to “provide wholesome recreation as a means of keeping children off the streets.” Menomonee funding has always been tied closely to the neighborhood.
 
This building is called the Willow Clubhouse, opened in 1950, and is the oldest of four Menomonee Club buildings.

With the help of the North Side Boys Club, the group rented an Old Town storefront and began offering ping pong, shuffleboard, boxing, baseball, woodworking, and choral singing. Membership was 50 cents, and more than 100 children joined during the first few weeks. It started out being a boys’ club, with girls allowed in once per week. That didn’t last long. Soon, girls were regularly coming, and The Menomonee Club for Boys and Girls was born. Kids gathered to take lessons, play checkers, and just hang out.

In 1950, the Club’s director Joe Vitale discovered a two-lane bowling alley on Willow, and The Club was able to buy it for $13,000. Its founding members scraped together a down payment and spent the next four years raising the rest of the money for the Menomonee Clubhouse. When it was finally paid for, a celebration was held – a mortgage-burning party!

THE OLD TOWN ART FAIR
The Crilly Court Apartments held a Jamboree (block party) that predated the Old Town Art Fair to raise money for a playground. The event was so successful that the Crilly residents decided to expand its mission to include The Menomonee Club and other neighborhood activities. Folklore says the Jamboree inspired the Art Fair.

The Old Town Triangle Association decided to hold an art fair they named “Old Town Holiday” in June of 1950 to raise funds for the Menomonee Club. Shortly thereafter, the Art Fair's name was changed to the Old Town Art Fair, which evolved into a nationally-known event.
Old Town, Chicago, Art Fair, 1954.
THE HISTORY OF OLD TOWN
Helen Guilbert ran a short-lived newspaper called "The Old Town News" beginning in 1957.

In its early years, people didn’t go to Old Town on Wells Street (5th Avenue before the 1909 Chicago street renaming and renumbering)... they just went to Wells Street. During the early 1960s, when the commercial part of the area, the "Old Town" designation, was commandeered. The area residents were unhappy and considered changing the name of “The Triangle” to "Old Town" until they realized that they had owned that designation first.

To clarify; The Triangle = Old Town and vice versa. The residents changed the direction of streets (St Paul and Eugenie) to one way going east to spare themselves the horrendously large volume of auto traffic on Wells. In the 1960s, there was so much Friday and Saturday night traffic that it could take 2 hours to drive from North Avenue to Division Street or Division to North Avenue.

Wells Street turned into Old Town's main street sometime in the early 1960s. Rumor has it that the Old Town School of Folk Music, founded in 1957, was the catalyst for the retail development of Wells Street as musicians flooded into the area, drinking and entertainment establishments flourished, and retailers followed.

In an age when people were fleeing the city for the suburbs, and then urban renewal was leveling nearby areas, local small business owners dug in, and Old Town became a medley of bohemian artists, trendy shops, flashy tourist spots, bars and taverns, museums, and lots of restaurants.

Guilbert ran a short-lived newspaper called "The Old Town News" beginning in 1957.

In the late-60s, Old Town became Chicago's hippie haven.
SHOPPING & DINING
Maiden Lane 
at 1525 N. Wells Street, a shopping center that fits almost none of the conventional ideas of what a shopping center should look like, opened in May of 1966 with space for 20 shops. Maiden Lane was once a garage owned by Henry Susk of Susk Pontiac. Henry Susk found the garage was surrounded by gift shops, antique stores, restaurants, and bistros that have changed the character of North Wells. He decided the building could be remodeled to create the atmosphere of the Old Maiden Lane section of London. A "lane" now runs thru the center of the building, lined with small shops reminiscent of London. Old English gaslights add to the illusion. Near the rear of the building, the lane widens into a square with a fountain.

Frank C. Wells, senior vice president of L.J. Sheridan & Company, Maiden Lane's leasing agent, said this may be one of the smallest shopping centers the firm has ever assisted in developing and leasing, but it is also one of the most interesting. Actually, Wells pointed out, Maiden Lane follows the latest concepts of shopping center design, including a heated covered mall, outstanding shopper circulation, and distinctive architecture. There are no giant department stores there, but you will find Granny's Toy shop, the Tye shop, the Smugglers Gift shop, Wiggery, and other interesting shops.

Piper’s Alley was opened in November of 1965 by Rudolph Schwartz and Jack Solomon, owners of the five buildings making up the 15 shops that once made up Piper’s Bakery and stables.
A giant Tiffany lamp hung outside the entrance to the maze of unusual retail shops.
The businesses (during different periods of time) in Piper's Alley had names like:
  • Aardvark Cinematheque (Movie Theatre)
  • Arts International Gallery
  • Bustopher Jones Boutique
  • Caravan (Hand Crafts)
  • Charlie's General Store
  • Design India (Furniture and Imported Items)
  • In Sanity (Party Goods Store)
  • Jack B. Nimble Candle Shop
  • La Piazza Restaurant
  • Male M1 Men's Shop
  • Off the Hook (Decorator Items)
  • Peace Pipe (Smoking Paraphernalia)
  • Personal Posters (Instant Immortality - photo to poster in 15 minutes)
  • Poor Richards
  • That Steak Joynt Restaurant (claimed to be haunted as customers and staff members reported bizarre supernatural experiences.)
  • That Hair Shoppe
  • The Bratskellar
  • The Caravan (Handcrafts Store)
  • The Flypped Disc (Record Store)
  • The Glass Unicorne
  • The Hungry Eye
  • The Jewelry Shop
  • The Sweet Tooth (Old Fashioned Candy)
  • Two Brothers
  • Volume 1 Book Shop
  • Ye Olde Farm House Restaurant
Customers walked down a brick alley lined with antique lamps.
A 1960s Advertisement
 
Note the original "Chicago Street Paver Bricks" in Piper's Alley. 
 
Charlies General Store
La Piazza in Pipers Alley, 1967
La Strada Restaurant Entrance at 1531 N. Wells Street, 1965
La Strada, 1531 N. Wells Street, Old Town, Chicago, 1965 postcard. A Continental Restaurant with an authentic European atmosphere provided by the owner, Buona Fortuna.
La Strada, 1531 N. Wells Street, Old Town, Chicago, 1965 postcard. A Continental Restaurant with an authentic European atmosphere provided by the owner, Buona Fortuna.
Besides the restaurants in Piper's Alley, other Old Town restaurant choices included the Chances R restaurant, famous for their burgers and allowing you to throw the peanut shells on the floor. The restaurant's name reflected the uncertainty of this first location in Old Town. "Chances are we could go broke," the owners reportedly said among themselves.
Chances R Interior
 
The Pickle Barrel restaurant offered a small barrel of pickles and a bowl of popcorn at every table (not peanuts, as some people get confused with "Chances R Restaurant"). A balloon artist or magician wandering around the restaurant. The Fireplace Inn restaurant and bar featuring charcoal-broiled ribs, steaks, seafood.
 
The Pickle Barrel Restaurant, 1423 North Well, Old Town, 1971.
 
There was the Paul Bunyan restaurant, bakery (home of the 12" cookie) and Buzz Saw Bar, the Golden Dragon Cantonese restaurant, the Stage Coach Restaurant and Snack Shop, The Pup Room - Red Hots and Hamburgers restaurant, Beef & Bourbon restaurant, La Strada restaurant, Old Town Rib Shack, and least we forget Lum's Restaurant which was on the southwest corner of North Avenue and Wells Street.
It was home to the famed Second City Theater, Uno's Bizzare Bazaar head shop, The Fudge Pot, the Town Shop, Madge women's clothing store, Parlor Jewelry, a penny candy shop, the Wick-ed Shoppe - a candle store, and The Man at Ease a hip men's clothing store.
The Man at Ease, 1706 North Wells Street, Chicago, closed in Old Town and moved to 2630 North Clark Street in 1969.


Let's not forget the Old Town Gate, the Old Town Auction House, the Oriental Gift Shop, Toptown clothing, Old Town Shop, The What Not Shop, Horse of a Different Color, and the Old Town Aquarium.
View from 1500 North Wells Street in Old Town neighborhood; Chicago, Illinois, July 3, 1970. The west side of the street includes the Fireplace Inn, the 'Wecord Woom,' Crystal Pistol, and the Ripley's Believe It or Not! Museum.
The Fig Leaf and Paper Dress Store.

 
The original Crate and Barrel store was on Wells Street, where they displayed the glasses and dishware in wooden barrels and crates filled with straw.
ENTERTAINMENT
The House of Horror was a spooky, creepy place for a kid to see. I had nightmares.
House of Horrors was close to Lum's, across the street from the Emporium.
The Royal London Wax Museum (figures by Josephine Tussaud) was at 1419 N. Wells Street. It included lifelike figures of Chicagoans Ernie Banks, Hugh Hefner, Al Capone, St. Valentine's Day Massacre, and figures from the Civil War. The Chamber of Horrors featured replicas of Dracula, the Wolf Man, and Frankenstein, while the fantasy room contained Pinocchio, Cinderella, Rip Van Winkle, and Alice in Wonderland. It closed in 1991.
Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum at 1500 N. Wells Street opened with a party on the evening of November 21, 1968. Reportedly, more than 500 people showed up. Visitors were greeted with an optical illusion in the lobby. A giant floating faucet seemingly suspended in mid-air, the faucet spilled out a thick and endless flow of water into a pebbly pond. It was a simple illusion. A tall, transparent pipe held the faucet in place at the nozzle, blasting water upwards that immediately gushed back down the sides covering the pipe.
Photo not from the Chicago Ripley's Believe it or Not!
The Chicago branch contained 13 galleries. It included a circus room with its various freaks and mutations and replicas of Cleopatra's barge, a man who lived to be 160 years old, and a mummified monk. The museum closed in 1987 and auctioned off its exhibits. It closed in 1987.
 
THE MUSIC SCENE
The Earl of Old Town Cafe & Pub
at 1615 N. Wells Street was the fabled club that came to epitomize the Chicago folk scene and honed such home-grown talent as Steve Goodman, John Prine, and Bonnie Koloc opened in 1962.
The Earl of Old Town Cafe & Pub, Circa 1962.



Earl J.J. Pionke was born and raised on Chicago's south side in 1932. After jumping between jobs to help support his family, Pionke tended bar at a few local saloons before taking aim at opening his own.
Earl J.J. Pionke, 1982


Chicago’s famed Old Town neighborhood had become the epicenter of Chicago’s emerging music scene and Earl knew there was an opportunity to join the movement and make something special. When Pionke first opened "The Earl of Old Town" in 1962, he was confident he could get people in the door. He didn't know how yet.  


A colorful and boisterous man, it was Earl’s infectious personality that helped first build the reputation of his club. As longtime Chicago folk-music mainstay Eddie Holstein recalled during Earl’s 80th Birthday Celebration, "You don’t meet Earl Pionke, you hear him coming." After inviting a few local folk singers to play at the club, the unexpected success of their performances set Pionke and The Earl of Old Town to showcase the emerging talent and their songs of the times. 
Once the spark was lit, it didn’t take long before The Earl of Old Town quickly became the hottest club in the city for emerging folk music. Famed Chicago singers and songwriters including John Prine, Bonnie Koloc, Jim Post, Steve Goodman, Fred & Eddie Holstein and many others all got their start playing to the warm audiences and bare brick walls of The Earl. For Eddie Holstein, The Earl was the perfect venue for new emerging artists. The Earl of Old Town featured live music on a nightly basis, and consistently the crowds piled in.  It was a welcoming place. The Earl was refined enough to catch your eye while still holding enough charm to make you feel at home. The intimacy of the room created an unmistakable and important sense of presence for both the audience and the performers.


“It was a listening room,” says Chicago folk veteran Chris Farrell, “you came to hear the music.” The music at The Earl thrived for years and the relationship between Earl and his performers became an atypical one. They were more family than hired talent. He more a fan than a benefactor. As quoted in the liner notes of 1970’s “Gathering at the Earl of Old Town," Pionke insists “They’re my kids, my pals, I love ‘em'.”
The Earl of Old Town closed its doors in 1982. Earl J.J. Pionke died Friday, April 26, 2013 at 80 years old.

Old Town was a mecca for the music scene. The Old Town School of Folk Music, Mother Blues, the Purple Cow, the Crystal Pistol, Quiet Knight, and the Plugged Nickel were trendy music venues.


Lincoln Park Pirates

Old Town also catered to the under 21 crowds with dance clubs; Judy's Juniors, Like Young, and My Sister's Place.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 




The Fire at Piper's Alley, March 1, 1971.
Piper’s Alley, the big tourist draw in Old Town, is evacuated as fire is discovered in the loft of the Playwright’s Center, a four-story building that forms the west end of the U-shaped commercial center.  Two thousand spectators watch from the streets, and a hundred diners are evacuated from That Steak Joynt at 1610 Wells Street as a precaution. Firefighters say that every one of the 15 shops that make up the alley will suffer some smoke or water damage. Fortunately, the glassblower at the entrance to the alley remains unscathed.

The Fire at Second City Comedy Club, August 26, 2015.
On Wednesday, August 26, a fire ignited inside a grease chute above the kitchen in Adobo Grill on Wells Street in Old Town. The fire spread to the building housing The Second City, a comedy club and school of improvisation, destroying offices and memorabilia from alumni. Months after the accident, the community is still cleaning up the mess.
Firemen said all the shops on the first floor suffered smoke and water damage. The buildings were estimated to be worth $1½ to $2 million.
On top of repairing fire damage, Second City is enduring construction in part of an expansion. Building onto what used to be the Aardvark Cinematheque movie theatre in Piper's Alley, they have gutted all that and put in new stages. The expansion of Second City was huge. 


Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 

Thank you, David Pfendler, Archivist for the Old Town Triangle Association, for the early history of the Old Town Triangle area.

48 comments:

  1. Holy Name of Mary grammar school went to the Wax Museum and Ripley's every year. When I got to high school, I ventured into places such as Bizarre Bazaar and The Smuggler for t-shirts, black light posters, and strawberry rolling papers. I had some of the best times of my younger life in Old Town including many a late night at the Golden Dragon after Dingbat's on McClurg Court closed at 2:00am. The Dragon was open until 5:00. Sweet memories.

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  2. Great photos. I used to work at a store called The Man At Ease, 1701 N. Wells in the late 60's and early 70's and my brothers ex-father-in-law had a paper dress store in Pipers Alley.

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    1. Man At Ease is mentioned in this article. Do you remember the Paper Dress Store's name Steve Bell?

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    2. Yes, I thought it would catch on and would have paper everything.

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    3. Our first date was at the Fire Place Inn. That would be January 1968

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    4. Hello Steve. You probably don't remember me, but I worked at The Man at Ease with you briefly in 1969, along with George Azelickis and Jerry Botham and various others. Now I teach English in Austin.
      John Robey

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    5. The Man had some really great clothes....wonderful style...I was the best dressed kid in HS for sure. Always remember the artwork they had....cartoons wallpapered in the dressing rooms...what great time. Peter Nordloh

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  3. Again a great article Neil. Brought back so many memories.

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  4. I was so surprised and excited to read your blog. Moved to Chicago from California and happy to be here.I want to see "old town " thanks for the memories.

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  5. Replies
    1. My family lived in Chicago 1965 to 1968 and I remember loving going to Paul Bunyan for their big chocolate chip cookies I was 5 at the time. Lol

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  6. I loved going to Old Town and Piper's Alley in the late 60's. I bought a paper dress there and also huge paper flowers. And I loved watching the glass blower through the window as he made all his creations. I purchased a pair of green glass elephant earrings in Piper's Alley. In Old Town I purchased a suede fringed vest. I was in high school at the time and wore my suede choker and peace love beads. Good times for sure.

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  7. Thank you for the wonderful memories. I used to go to a small store on the south end of Old Town called "The What Not Shop" . A wonderful place to wander. You never knew what you might discover there.

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  8. Wow. Memories! I first worked at Bizarre Bazaar in about 1974. Then at the Hair Place and also a jewelry store also owned by Sherman across from the restaurant on the south side of Piper's Alley, before the swinging doors. Robin was a waiter there and I'd eat a baked potato every day for lunch. I still have a red glass tulip candleholder from the candle shop inside and ran into Sinclair a couple of years ago at an O'BAnion's reuniion on the west side.

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    1. My dad Sherman Wernick owned Jack B Nimble candle shop which was across the alley from the other Sherman’s wig shop. I was a little kid then but hung out in the Alley frequently. If you know how to reach Sinclair I’d love to reconnect.

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  9. My dad used to love to sing at Punchinillos (sp?) don't see any photos of it ? I thought it was in Old Town / Piper's Alley area ????

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  10. any more pictures of 'OLD TOWN GATE" Earls 1st pub & his main stay was Earl of Old Town, interested in any more photos of old town gate......not many were around.

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  11. Does anyone remember a clothing boutique on the west side of wells st just north of schiller? I can't remember the name.

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  12. I remember nearby hangouts like the Store and the Spirit of 76 (later Mother's Love); I'm sure they've been replaced by other hangouts now...

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  13. The "mod" fashions of the Man at Ease store made me a hit back in my suburban high school.

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  14. The late great jazz guitarist Be Bop Sam Thomas told me he played at the Plugged Nickel with John Klemmer saxophone back then 1960s

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  15. Brought back so many happy memories from 67-68! Thanks!

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  16. It bothers me that the map represents the area north of North Avenue, but so many of the businesses were south of North Avenue on Wells.

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  17. My dad had a shop in Pipers Alley, John Brown's Leatherworks. It was right before La Piazza.

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  18. My mom took me to Old Town on North Wells in 1966, visiting from Minneapolis. The area and the "scene" made an indelible impression on me that reminds vivid to this day: Crate and Barrel, Chances R, Piper's Alley. Minneapolis caught on to the scene and became even more "hip" than the Windy City.

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    1. Nowhere was hipper than Old Town, Chicago in the 1960s except San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Just Sayin'

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  19. Far out! Many good memories and thanks for the wonderful pictures. That area was groovy.

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  20. Very nice. I have many memories of the area.

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  21. In 1965 I lived in a “crash pad” in the building on the s.e corner of Wells and Gothe. A cop came there looking for runaways. I asked for a search warrant and he shook his beefy hand at me and said”here’s my search warrant “ We let him in.

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  22. Myself sister used to take us down there. Went to the wax museum. Ripleys and the pickle barrel. Loved it. Wish I was older. Would have loved seeing Steve Goodman perform

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  23. Wonderful article, Neil! There's something off, however, in your description of the Pipers Alley fire. I lived in the building on the north side of Pipers Alley from '74 til '76, and the ground floor was still That Steak Joynt in that era; Adobo Grill took over the space MUCH later! So I'm wondering whether the fire might have occurred in '81 (or even '91), rather than in '71....

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    1. Placed a new header title in the "Fire" section seperating the two fires, 1971 and 2015.

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  24. My older Brother hung out at The Earl in the late 60’s early 70’s with his long hair my parents hated then in the late 70,s early 80’s I hung out at EXIT with my short spiked hair which my parents also disliked! Guess you just can’t please everyone! LOL

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  25. Famous Chicago sculptor and Art Institute professor Eldon Danhausen owned Soup'son on the lower level of one of the sidewalk shops on the west side of Wells St. I remember having lunch there many times before I ever got to know him, 20 years later, though a mutual friend. La Piazza had the very best deep dish pizza ever. Great memories and photos - thank you. There was also a bird shop in Old Town, Sedgwick Studio, owned by Erling Kjelland: https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1986-07-08-8602180366-story.html. That was an amazing place to be. He had an African grey parrot who sung opera.

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  26. I see Mother Blues but right next door was a place called The Out House - featured singers like Del Brown and Baby Huey - I remember the ceiling caved in one night while Baby Huey was performing. They had a bouncer we called "Superman" and the place was always jumping. Sure wish someone had pix of the times there.

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  27. Went to the art fair in the early 60s with my mother! Then spent a lot of time as a teen in the 70s wonderful memories.

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  28. I was born in 1964 and remember going to Piper’s alley with my dad as a matter of fact I was recently thinking about it but couldn’t remember the name. I still can smell the Pickle Barrel in my thoughts. My dad unfortunately passed away more than 25 years ago so there are plenty of unanswered questions. I remember going to the art fair and my dad selling pictures that he would develop himself. Sometimes I wonder if they are still out there hanging on someone’s wall. My dad was also a firefighter for the city of Chicago but I have no idea where he was stationed. I remember visiting the firehouses being amazed at how courageous everyone was just going down that very tall shiny brass pole! If anyone reads this and knows my dad and has any memories to share I would love to hear them. My dad’s name is Robert (Bob) Cedarwall. Thanks

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  29. I really enjoy your photo display of the good old stuff. I am hoping to find a photo of the sign of the head shop at 153 W North Avenue. It was international orange with the name "Stick it in your ear." I have been looking for years but I did not own a camera then. I also miss the "Climax" and thr "First National Nothing." Thanks for your gift tom us all old hippies

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  30. Wanted to add a little something about Silver Syd Warner. Syd ran a little jewelry shop near the corner of Sedgwick and North and was known for his handmade sterling silver rings and bracelets. He was also the bass player in Mike Bloomfield's new group, often playing over at Mother Blues. In 1964-65, I lived in a tiny apartment behind Syd's shop.

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