Saturday, December 3, 2016

Champaign Automobile Company, 504 North Neil Street, Champaign, Illinois. (1908)

Champaign Automobile Company, 504 North Neil Street, Champaign, Illinois. Showing the west side of the structure. (1908)
This building is still standing. Listed at 514 North Neil Street, Champaign, Illinois.

Friday, December 2, 2016

The Green Tree Tavern and Inn, Lake and West Water Streets, Chicago, Illinois. A first hand account of an overnight stay.

The Green Tree Tavern was built the same year Chicago was incorporated as a town in 1833[1]. It was located at Wolf Point on the Northeast Corner of Lake and West Water Streets (Now Canal Street), Chicago, by Silas B. Cobb for James Kinzie (the second son born to John Kinzie and his first wife Margaret Mckenzie Kinzie) as a two-story frame building and opened by David Clock.

James Kinzie also lived and sold merchandise in part of the building. The Green Tree Tavern was an addition to the old Wolf's Point Tavern that was run at an early date by Elijah Wentworth. Later, Edward Parsons was the proprietor of the Green Tree Tavern. Renamed Stage House in 1835, then renamed to the Chicago Hotel a few years later. John Gray, of Grayland, Illinois, a beautiful Chicago suburb, was the landlord at the Chicago Hotel from 1838 to 1841. Still, later it was renamed the Lake Street House.
AN OVERNIGHT STAY AT THE GREEN TREE TAVERN & INN
At the Green Tree, we were spared the ceremony of registering because they had no book for that purpose. Nor was it certain that we could find accommodation until our host had returned from the kitchen, whether he had gone to consult with his efficient wife, who performed the never-ending duties of housekeeper, landlady, meat and pastry cook, scullion (a
 servant assigned the most menial kitchen tasks)
, chambermaid, waitress, advisor, and personal attendant upon all the ladies and children who took shelter under the Green Tree; while her liege lord filled the many positions of Boniface, clerk, bartender, butler, steward, walking encyclopedia, and general roustabout.

The momentous council was at length ended and we were assigned a room adjoining the one we had first entered, which was the bar, reading, smoking, and reception room, ladies parlor, and general utility place, in one. Our room was about 12x12 feet with two 6x8 foot windows, two doors, two beds, two red pictures, two chairs, a carpet worn in two, and was altogether too dirty for the comfort of persons unaccustomed to such surroundings. Placing our hand luggage and two trunks inside, we returned to the family room and public rendezvous and took observations.

On the east and west sides of the seemingly prehistoric whitewashed walls and board partitions were the inevitable puncheon benches. Scattered around in a more informal manner was an assortment of wooden chairs. Near the north end was a bar counter useful not only to receive the drinks but umbrellas, overcoats, whips, and parcels. The west end of the bar was adorned with a large inkstand placed in a cigar box filled with No. 8 shot, in which were sticking two quill pens — steel being unknown here, though invented in 1830. This end of the counter afforded the only opportunity in the establishment for a young man to write to the girl he left behind, standing up to his work like a prizefighter with a host of backers and seconds around him to see that he had fair play. Near the inkstand were several tattered newspapers, the latest giving an account of a great snowstorm in Boston. At the other end of the counter were a dozen or more short pieces of tallow candles, each placed in a hole bored in a 2x4 block fortified by sixpenny nails, standing like mourners around the circular graves in which they had seen so many flickering lights pass away into utter darkness.
Hanging in a row against the wall were large cloth and leather slippers, which the guests were expected to put on at night, that mud might not be tracked to every part of the house. Under the counter were a large wooden boot jack and a box containing two old-fashioned boot brushes and several pieces of hard, raw tallow, black from the application to boots. There was also a collection of old-fashioned, perforated tin lanterns. Though not equal to their glass descendants, they were a great improvement on the lanthorns [2] of ye olden times, and certainly very useful in enabling one to distinguish the difference between the necessary stepping-blocks in the streets and the altogether unnecessary mud puddles. 

There was also to be seen the indispensable tinder box, used fifty times a day, at least, for lighting pipes, when the old, rusty, bar stove was taking its summer vacation. Above the tinder box was one of the old-fashioned, square, cherry, veneered Connecticut clocks. On the glass door beneath the dial plate was a purple horse drawing a blue plow, which a man with a green coat and yellow trousers was guiding. The men of the Nutmeg State were giants in those days, judging by this specimen, who was taller than the apple tree in the corner, which, in turn, was loaded with fruit larger than the man's head. Beneath the tree was a monstrous bullfrog, considerably larger than the crimson calf beside it. The ablutionary arrangements were exceedingly primitive, consisting of tin washbasins, soiled towels, small mirrors, and toothless combs. Several dishes of soft soap were arranged along the back of the water trough. Though pretty strong for washing the hands of a "Tenderfoot," it was in great demand after greasing boots or applying tar to wagon axles.

In the middle of the room, standing in a low box filled with lake sand, was a large stove used in winter to good advantage not only for the warmth imparted to the room but for furnishing hot water for toddies, shaving, and washing as well. On the right side of the door going into our room was a Cook County License, costing $5, which permitted the recipient to keep an inn and tavern.

The license contained printed regulations as to prices:
For each ½ Pint; Rum, Wine, or Brandy - 25¢ 
For each Pint; Rum, Wine, or Brandy - 37½¢ 
For each ½ Pint Gin - 18¾¢ 
For each Pint Gin - 31¼¢ 
For each Glass of Whiskey - 06¼¢ 
For each ½ Pint Whiskey - 12½¢ 
For Cider or Beer: 1 Pint - .06¼¢; 1 Quart - 12½¢
For Breakfast and Supper - 25¢ 
For Dinner - 37½¢ 
For Horse single feed - 25¢ 
By the time we had read our fate in the license figures, we were called to supper by a large bell, which was run by our host in a manner that required no explanation as to its meaning. In the dining room were two tables, the length of the room, covered with green checked oilcloth, loaded with roasted wild ducks, fricassee of prairie chickens, wild pigeon pot pie, tea, and coffee, creamless, but sweetened with granulated maple sugar procured from our red brethren. These furnished a banquet that rendered us oblivious to chipped dishes, flies buzzing or tangled in the butter, creeping beetles, and the music of the Mosquito Band. We paid no attention to pewter spoons and pewter castors containing such condiments as mustard in an uncovered pot and black pepper coarsely crushed by the good housewife, or to cruets with broken stoppers filled with vinegar and pepper sauce. Our appetites put to flight fastidiousness and, even though the case knives and forks had never been scoured, we took it for granted that they were washed after every meal and we paid strict attention to our own business, and soon after tea retired.
Written by Edwin O. Gale in 1835.

GREEN TREE TAVERN SURVIVES THE
GREAT CHICAGO FIRE OF 1871
The Green Tree Tavern survived the Great Chicago Fire because it was on the west side of the Chicago River. The conflagration consumed the east side of the north and south branches, jumping the river from the south to the north. See Burnt District Map.
Green Tree Tavern on Milwaukee Avenue,
between Fulton and Lake Streets, Chicago circa 1880s
In 1880 the Green Tree Tavern was loaded on rollers and moved away from its historic stand at the northeast corner of Canal and Lake streets and dumped down on the new, unhistorical thoroughfare called Milwaukee avenue.

It was given the address of 33-35-37 N. Milwaukee Avenue, which today is at the 200 block of North Milwaukee Avenue, between Fulton and Lake Streets.

The structure was in poor shape before the move. Impertinent trade had sheared off the corners, leaving only a disjointed wreck of a building, with a quivering chimney atop. 

A tottering, paralytic old wreck, sway-backed, with the windows all askew and the clapboards rattling in the cool night winds. It was demolished by 1903.


Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.


[1] The first plat of the town of Chicago was filed in 1830. Chicago was incorporated as a town on August 12, 1833, with a population of about 350. With a population of 4,170, the town of Chicago filed new Incorporation documents on March 4, 1837, to become the City of Chicago and for several decades was the world's fastest-growing city.

[2] Lanthorn is an old British word that is defined as a lantern. 

The 2900 South Michigan Avenue Block, Chicago. (circa. 1890)

The 2900 South Michigan Avenue Block, Chicago. (circa. 1890)

The Mammoth Spring Ice House, Fullersburg, Illinois. (1880-1910)

The Mammoth Spring Ice House was built in 1880 by John F. Ruchty, owner of the Mammoth Spring Ice Company, on Salt Creek at the foot of Washington Street in Fullersburg, Illinois. Now a part of Oak Brook, Illinois.
The Mammoth Spring Ice House, Fullersburg, Illinois
The Mammoth Spring Ice House building was 100 feet long, 50 feet wide and 30 feet high, with double walls 18 inches thick filled with sawdust. The ice was packed in tiers, each layer covered with wood shavings. Fifty to sixty men were required to fill the ice house. 

When the ice reached the thickness of twelve to eighteen inches in the creek, a field was marked out, cut in blocks 24 inches square and floated on rafts through channels to the water box. Then the ice was hauled up a chute by means of a jack attached to a long rope through a series of pulleys. Two teams of horses furnished the power. 

Several thousand tons of ice was stored each winter for delivery the following summer at 50¢ per one-hundred pounds. Five wagons made daily trips supplying ice to markets and homes in LaGrange, Western Springs, Hinsdale and South Elmhurst. In 1885, the increasing demands for ice resulted in construction of an additional ice house and two more wagons to serve the area.

When artificial ice (from refrigeration cooling systemsreplaced natural ice, the Ruchty Brothers sold their business in 1910 to the West Suburban Ice Company. A few timbers lining the bank of Salt Creek are all that remains of the ice house. 

Compiled by Neil Gale, Ph.D.

The story of Frink, Walker & Co., Stage Line, northern Illinois' transportation monopoly of the 1800s.

What the railroad station was to rural country towns, Frink, Walker & Co., was to early Chicago. It was the center of public interest. Several times a day strangers arrived in town, residents set out upon long and often hazardous journeys, mail was received and dispatched and it was the transportation center of the growing town.

A man named John Frink set up the first successful stage line out of Chicago in 1832 with partner Charles K. Bingham. The first Frink, Bingham & Co. Stagecoach ventured west out of Chicago to Fullersburg [1] (Oak Brook), 15 miles from Chicago, which followed the Indian Boundary Line (Indian Boundary Park, Chicago so named because the park is on the Indian boundary).
Frink joined forces with Martin O. Walker and Walker's brother, Curan (a silent partner) on June 1, 1840. Frink provided the political, operational and sales know-how, while Martin provided business experience and funding along with Curan.
The new line was known as the Frink, Walker & Co., and their coaches started from a shanty-like building located in the heart of Chicago at the corner of Lake and Clark Streets. By 1835, Frink moved two doors west, on the south side of Lake Street, off the corner of Lake and Dearborn streets.
Frink, Walker & Co., General Stage Office, two doors west, on the south side of Lake Street, off the corner of Lake and Dearborn streets, Chicago, Illinois. (1844)
From 1832 until the construction of the first railroad in 1848, the stagecoaches of Frink, Walker & Co., were the largest company connecting Chicago with the outside world. For several years after the primitive locomotives had come puffing in and out of town, the stages continued to run regularly, carrying passengers and mail to and from many places not reached by the first railroads. 
Frink, Walker & Co., General Stage Office.
Even before Chicago was incorporated as a town in 1833, the firm established a stagecoach line to Galena in 1832. Oddly enough, that town was also the terminus of the first railroad.

The Galena-Chicago route had many stops; at Lena, Illinois, going east, the stage route followed today's US 20 through Eleroy, Freeport, Rockford, Belvidere, Bloomingdale and other towns along the way. 

The stages typically left the Frink, Walker & Co., Chicago depot between 4 and 6 am to take advantage of as much daylight as possible. They stopped for the night at inns along the route. The 150 to 160 mile trip, depending on the route, took the better part of five days but that was cut to two days when they ran around the clock, with stops every 12 to 15 miles at relay stations to change horses. The fare was $12.50 ($315.00 today). Passengers were often forced to help push the coaches out of the mud or help with repairs. Accidents were common, as were injured horses that often immobilized the stages and forced passengers to continue their trips on the first farm wagon that came along.

Even meals could be an ordeal. The inns usually didn't start cooking until the coach arrived. That took about 50 minutes, so the passengers had to wolf down lunch or dinner in just 10 minutes to avoid being left behind after the hour layover.

A few years later, the 97-mile trip from Chicago to Milwaukee by stage consumed two days, with an overnight stop in Kenosha, but competition from Great Lakes ships had reduced the summertime fare to $3 ($70 today).
Frink, Walker & Co., Offices, 1845.
The first non-local stagecoach line arrived from Detroit in 1833 after the Black Hawk War of 1832 ended an Indian revolt over ownership of Illinois farmland and made land travel safe west of Chicago.

In 1834, Dr. John T. Temple started a stage line from Chicago southwest to Peoria to meet the steamboats plodding up and down the Illinois River from St. Louis. (The 96-mile Illinois and Michigan Canal that would eventually connect Chicago with the Illinois River at Ottawa was not completed until 1848.) Frink, a Connecticut native who learned the stagecoach business in the East, formed a rival stage-steamboat line in 1834, then in 1837, he bought out Temple.

The mail in the 1830s and '40s traveled on Frink, Walker & Co. coaches that rattled and bounced over Potawatomi trails to Detroit, Peoria and Galena at an average of fewer than 10 miles per hour dodging tree stumps and fording streams.

Frink fought all the other stage lines, in true Chicago style, eventually emerging in control of the stages in and out of Chicago. 

The Chicago-Rockford route began sometime around 1837. In 1848 the schedule from Chicago to Rockford was 24 hours. The coaches were always drawn by four horses and the horses were changed at intervals of 15 miles at stations built for that purpose. Coaches left the main office in Chicago on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday and returned on the alternate days. The fare was $5.00 ($175 today).

As settlements increased in number, Frink, Walker & Co., met the growing demands by establishing new stagecoach lines to all parts of the Northwest, as far as Milwaukee and Prairie du Chien Wisconsin, and to the south, a line extended to St. Louis Missouri. Many a lady passenger became hysterical in the Stagecoach when the driver seemingly headed for the middle of Lake Michigan while fording the more shallow water in the delta to the Calumet River, in the days before bridges.
The Stagecoach wasn't as glamorous as the movies made them out to be.
The stagecoach office, from which all the coaches departed, and which was usually surrounded by an interested group of idlers [2]. Many of the stages, especially those obliged to traverse muddy roads, were equipped with six horses, and, in addition to the skillful driver, carried a postillion [3], who blew a horn gaily when the stage was pulling out, and played a fanfare on its arrival to notify the idlers that the stage was in with the mail and passengers. 

Now and again the passengers and drivers on these coaches had a brush with the Indians on lonely stretches of the road, but more often their experiences were confined to struggles with the deep mud of the roads through the woods and across the prairies. The extension of the railroad lines to all parts of the territory reached by the stages led to the abandonment of a picturesque feature of life in early Chicago.

Frink sold the stagecoach business to Walker sometime in the 1840s, then began investing in iron horses.

Frink died of a stroke in 1858 at age 63; Walker operated stagecoaches for another 30 years in more remote areas of the Midwest not served by railroads.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.


[1] Fullersburg, Illinois was on the edge of Indian Country. It was where a roadhouse once stood along the Southwest Plank Road (now Route 34 / Ogden Avenue), a stop on the Frink, Walker & Co. Known as Castle Inn, it is believed that Abraham Lincoln spoke from their veranda while riding his circuit. 

Lincoln's circuit extended thru 18 counties and that he went from Clinton to Monticello, then to Urbana, Danville, Paris, Charleston, Shelbyville, Sullivan, Decatur, Taylorville, and Springfield. At different times in the course of Lincoln's circuit-riding, he traveled thru each of the following counties: Sangamon, Menard, Mason, Tazewell, Woodford, Livingston, McLean, DeWitt, Piatt, Champaign, Vermilion, Edgar, Coles, Shelby, Moultrie, Macon, and Christian.


[2] Idler; A habitually lazy person.


[3] Postillion; A person who rides the leading left-hand horse of a pair or team drawing a coach or carriage, especially when there is no coachman.