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Monday, May 27, 2024

Edwardo's Pizza Restaurants: A Failing Chicago Institution.



Edward "Eddie" Jacobson founded Edwardo's Pizza in 1978 after leaving Giordano's employment. The first Edwardo's Pizza Restaurant opened on the far north side of Chicago in the Rogers Park community, and a year later, on the south side in Hyde Park, he opened his second location. The original Edwardo's Pizza location was a small, cozy spot with red-and-white checkered tablecloths and vintage Italian posters adorning the walls. Eddie's wife, Marie, helped with the cooking, while their children, Mark and Lisa, assisted with serving customers. The family's warmth and hospitality quickly made Edwardo's a neighborhood favorite.

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Here are some facts about the history of stuffed pizza in Chicago:
Stuffed pizza was inspired by the deep-dish pizzas that were already popular in Chicago. Nicknamed the "Pizza Pie." 

The Inventors claim the base of their recipe is a family member's Easter Pie Recipes, known as "Scarciedda," which were made in Turin, Italy.

The 1970s marked the Golden Age of Pizza in Chicago. Legends were born: Gino's, Lou's, Pequod's, and Nancy’s Pizza. Many folks might think they know the true history of stuffed pizza (and who invented it), but few realize that, in 1971, the founders of Nancy’s sold the world’s first stuffed pizza. 

Eddie's journey began many years earlier. He grew up in Chicago, surrounded by the sights, smells, and tastes of traditional Italian cuisine. His family's kitchen was always filled with the aroma of freshly baked bread, simmering sauces, and melting mozzarella. Here, Eddie developed his secret recipe, passed down through his family of Italian cooks.
Edwardo's Pizza
Edwardo's early on sought to carve out a niche with a healthier version of stuffed pizza, and they introduced a spinach-soufflé-stuffed pizza. They also grew basil and oregano hydroponically in each of their stores. In the early 1980s, Edwardo tried out a whole-wheat crust (available on pizza orders for an extra cost). They were also known to make use of San Marzano tomatoes, a plum tomato variety, for their pizza sauce. San Marzano tomatoes are grown in the volcanic soil near Mount Vesuvius in Italy, which is rich in nutrients and minerals, giving the tomatoes a distinctive sweetness and low acidity, offering a balanced flavor profile with a blend of sweetness, rich tomato intensity, and a pleasant level of acidity.
Edwardo's Pizza Slice




By 1984, when Jacobson entered into a relationship with Chicago real estate investors Ivan and Jeffrey Himmel, Edwardo's had six locations. Soon thereafter, Edwardo's expanded to Minneapolis and Milwaukee. 

As the pizzeria's popularity grew, so did its reputation. Foodies and locals raved about the thick, crispy crust made with a special flour, water, and cornmeal blend. The sauce added a tangy, slightly sweet flavor profile. Melted mozzarella cheese, applied in generous portions, completed the classic combination.

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Stuffed Pizza is a Chicago creation. 

Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Edwardo's Pizza expanded to new locations across the city, solidifying its status as a beloved Chicago institution. Critics and patrons alike praised the pizzeria's consistency, flavor, and value. Edwardo's received numerous accolades, including "Best Pizza in Chicago" awards from local publications and a spot on the Food Network's "Top 10 Pizzerias in the Country" list.

In the meantime, Himmels's company took over Edwardo's entirely and expanded its food empire to include Gino's East. Edwardo's has suffered some setbacks in recent years, but today, there are still nine locations, seven of which are in the Chicago area, one on the outskirts of Milwaukee, and another in Muncie, Indiana.

There's been talk that Edwardo's quality has been dropping in recent years. People say it's definitely the weakest of Chicago's major Deep-Dish Pizza chains. 

Recently, there have been many negative comments about Edwardo's:

"I'd have to say it is definitely the weakest of the major Deep-Dish Stuffed Pizza chains in Chicago. The crust on the deep dishe pizza was generally crisp but also bland. The sauce was overly sweet and the cheese didn't really stand out at all. The meat toppings (sausage, pepperoni, bacon and Canadian bacon) were also mediocre at best, and in the case of the sausage, downright embarrassing." Anonymous 2024

"The BBQ Beef special (with sliced Italian beef, Monterrey Jack cheese, red onions, green peppers and BBQ sauce) was ordered on a whim and was entirely missable." Anonymous 2024

Eddie's children and grandchildren became involved in the family business as the years passed, ensuring that the tradition of quality and authenticity continued. Mark, Eddie's son, took over as head chef, introducing new menu items while remaining true to the original sauce recipe. Lisa, Eddie's daughter, managed the front of the house, welcoming customers with the same warmth and hospitality that had defined the pizzeria from its early days.

Today, Edwardo's Pizza remains a family-owned and operated business, with Eddie's grandchildren, Alex and Mia, helping with daily operations. The pizzeria continues to innovate, offering new specials and menu items while remaining committed to its heritage and the traditional Italian cuisine that has made it a Chicago staple.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D.

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