Wednesday, June 19, 2019

The History of the Berghoff Restaurant in Chicago's Loop since 1898.

Herman Berghoff immigrated to America from Dortmund, Germany, in 1870. Herman and his three brothers, Henry, Hubert, and Gustav, started brewing Berghoff's Beer in Fort Wayne, Indiana, in 1887. 
The Berghoff Family as they began brewing Berghoff Beer.
When the Chicago World's Columbian Exposition opened in 1893, Berghoff set up a stand on the Midway Plaisance and sold his beer to people entering and exiting the fair. His success at the fair prompted him to consider a more permanent place to sell his beer in Chicago. The Berghoff Restaurant, at 17 West Adams Street, near the center of Chicago's Loop, was opened in 1898 and quickly became a famous institution. His Dortmunder[1] style beers were sold for 5¢ and they came with a free sandwich (one per customer -- not one with each beer).
When Prohibition began in 1920, Herman saw it as an opportunity to expand his business as opposed to shutting it down or boarding it up. He began brewing “near beer” (which is now sold as Berghoff's Root Beer) and Berghoff pop (soda pop for you non-Chicagoans) while also expanding their foodservice.
A historic photo of The Berghoff Restaurant on West Adams Street in downtown Chicago.
During the 14 years that Prohibition was in effect, The Berghoff Restaurant became well known for authentic German fare. After prohibition was repealed in 1933, The Berghoff was issued Chicago's #1 Liquor License.
A photo of Herman Berghoff holding Chicago's first-ever liquor license after Prohibition.
Long after most restaurants ended the practice, the Berghoff maintained a separate men's only bar.
Celebrating the repeal of Prohibition at the Berghoff Restaurant's Men-Only Tavern.
It wasn’t until Gloria Steinem and six other members of the National Organization for Women stood at the bar and demanded to be served in 1969 that the segregation ended.

For much of its history, the Berghoff waiters would purchase the meals they were serving from the kitchen and then deliver them to the customer, keeping the amount the customer paid for the meals.
A sample of one of The Berghoff Restaurant's old menus.
On December 28, 2005, it was announced by Herman Berghoff, 70, and his wife Jan Berghoff that after 107 years of operation, The Berghoff would close on February 28, 2006. Herman and Jan were the third generation of Berghoff's to own the restaurant.
The restaurant's basement cafe reopened on April 18, 2006, during weekday lunch hours only, and was run by Carlyn Berghoff, Herman and Jan's daughter. She also reopened the Berghoff's bar on May 23, 2006, under the new name "17-West at The Berghoff." At one point, Carlyn Berghoff converted the dining room of the restaurant into a private banquet hall called "The Century Room.", however, it's back and running as a full-service restaurant like it once did.

INDEX TO MY ILLINOIS AND CHICAGO FOOD & RESTAURANT ARTICLES.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 


What is a Dortmunder-style beer?
Written by Berghoff Restaurant.

One of our favorite beers in our line of great Berghoff brews is our Dortwunder Lager for its rich malty flavor and the exquisite crispness it delivers. Our brewmasters did not invent this style though, rather we used a beer that dates back to the 19th century from the German city of Dortmunder. There, they created a delicious beer that still is popular today.
The Dortmunder style comes from a strip of land known as the Ruhr District which ran east and west for 60 miles between the Rhine and Ruhr River. The beer is named after one of the biggest towns in the area is Dortmund, which is also the largest city in Germany by area.

During the start of the Industrial Revolution, Dortmund and its surrounding cities had developed quite well. Under the earth of the Ruhr District were rich seams of coal which allowed Germany’s industry to grow. As the decades moved forward Dortmund and Ruhr District exploded with industrial factories that both processed coal and iron. The towns night sky would glow from the fiery furnaces that filled the area, and the air smelled of burning all year round.

It’s no surprise then, that the beer brewed in the area of Dortmund and the Ruhr District was meant to be drunk by hard-working men. The men were looking for a refreshing brew that had a classic maltiness of a Bavarian beer and a deeper color than a German Pilsner. What the brewers of Dortmund came up with was what we now refer to as a Dortmunder.

The intention was to make a tough beer that a miner, coal worker, and steelworker could enjoy. They looked for the no-nonsense, middle-of-the-road beer that could satisfy a thirst any time of the day. The brewers of Dortmund used a mix of the Bavarian Helles which came in a light blonde color with a gentle flavor and rich maltiness. They mixed that with the German Pils which had a better characteristic of aromatic hops and an upfront bitterness that pinched the tongue. Dortmund took those two brews and combined them to create a great middle-ground that had the rich maltiness of the Bavarian Helles along with the crisp richness and aromatic personality of a German Pilsner.

Dortmunder always has around a 5.5% alcohol level with a dark blond hue. Often you can find a biscuit, toffee, and caramel flavor to the style with a firm mouthfeel and an even, dry tone.

As the industrial revolution and industry, in general, declined in the Ruhr District, so did the sales of the Dortmunder Brew. By 1994, the famous Dortmund Union Brewery had closed its doors and merged with several other Dortmund brewers under the name Brinkhoff’s Brewery.

Berghoff’s Dortwunder Lager respects the style of German’s distinct brew while adding our own American twist. We created a perfectly balanced all-malt beer starting with a base of US two-row pilsner malt and a lightly-kilned Vienna and Munich malt mix to add that slight caramel flavor we love. A smooth and crisp beer with a classic flavor easy for pairing with a variety of foods or just having on its own after a hard day of work. We like to think this beer is for all of our hard-working men and women out there that put in the hard hours needed to keep this world turning.

Use a Pilsner Glass to serve Dortmunder beers.
Pilsner Glass
Despite the name, Pilsner glasses are great for any light or medium-bodied lager, such as Dortmunder, Helles, Vienna, and of course, Pilsner. The fluted shape of the glass promotes head retention and allows the delicate aromatics of lager to be released. They are also designed for drinkers to take large, refreshing gulps.


Tuesday, June 18, 2019

The Bagel Restaurant and Deli of Chicago & Skokie, Illinois.

After surviving the Holocaust, Elsa and Herman Golenzer, who had owned a restaurant in Hamburg, Germany, along with their children Michael and Ruth, brought their family recipes and authentic Old World cooking to Chicago's North Side.
A favorite menu item is Lox, chive cream cheese, onion, and tomato on a bagel.
The original 34-seat location at 4806 North Kedzie Avenue was formerly occupied by a baker called "The Bagel Bakery." The family was unable to afford a new sign so they decided to go with the name "The Bagel Restaurant" and kept the sign in place.

Ruth's sons Danny and the late Michael took over in 1969.
4806 North Kedzie Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, location.
4806 North Kedzie Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, location.
In 1977, demand for The Bagel's offerings outstripped the capabilities of its original location's seating capacity so the deli moved to its second location at 3000 West Devon Avenue in the West Rogers Park neighborhood of the West Ridge community, where it remained for 15 years.
3000 West Devon Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, location.
Two weeks after closing the Devon location, The Bagel opened up in Lakeview at 3107 North Broadway Avenue in December 1992.
3107 North Broadway, Chicago, Illinois, location.
The Bagel opened at 4905 Old Orchard Shopping Center, Skokie in 1987.
Old Orchard Shopping Center location in Skokie, Illinois.
Deli Counter at the Old Orchard Shopping Center location in Skokie, Illinois.
Since the closure of the Lord & Taylor store next door, the owners of Old Orchard have been planning to reconfigure the area. The Bagel's Skokie locations lease had already expired and had been operating month to month. They tried to stay open as long as they could because their customers were like family. 

The Bagel Deli and Restaurant closed the Skokie location on November 29, 2018.
Corned Beef Sandwiches Piled High!
In hundreds of replies from disappointed customers, longtime patrons bemoaned the loss of favorite menu items like kreplach and matzah ball soup and questioned the reasons for the restaurant's closure. Some suggested Old Orchard had decided not to renew the lease. Others suggested Skokie's tax rates were a contributing factor. 

The truth is that Westfield Old Orchard raised the rent too high, so the Bagel bolted. 

In the Lakeview community, the Bagel Restaurant & Deli at 3107 North Broadway is still open (as of March 2024). 


Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 
#JewishThemed #JewishLife

The History of Ann Sather's Restaurants of Chicago, Illinois.

In 1945, Ann Sather plunked down savings earned at a Chicago meat-packing plant to buy an already-existing Swedish diner.  Although of Norwegian heritage, Ann kept the Swedish menu to please loyal guests in the then-heavily-Swedish Andersonville neighborhood. It was Ann's restaurant where people could come for generous homemade meals, warm hospitality, and a genuine concern for their welfare.

The competition was fierce. Ann’s block had seven (7) Swedish restaurants operating when she stepped in. One by one, those closed, but Ann held on, working the restaurant for 30 years before selling to Tom Tunney, 44th Ward Alderman, and the man responsible for growing Ann Sather’s to a three-unit operation. 

They are legendary for their cinnamon buns and fabulous breakfasts. According to Tunney, Ann’s cinnamon-spiced carrot bread slices were originally included with the breadbasket but later sold whole at the bakery counter.
For 30 years, Ann ran the diner herself. Her devotion to wholesome, made-from-scratch food, low prices, and hard work became legendary.
In 1981 after searching for a successor who would meet her stringent demands for quality and remain devoted to her patrons, Ann sold the restaurant to Tom Tunney a 24-year-old graduate of the Cornell University School of Hotel and Restaurant Management. Tom apprenticed with Ann for a year learning the business from top to bottom. Tom, a Southside Irish lad with French culinary training, was learning all of the best Scandinavian cooking secrets in town.
Although Ann Sather passed away in 1996, her spirit prevails. The good food, good friends, and good fun philosophy that has made her diners famous. Over the last 22 years, Tom has expanded the business to include the most famous breakfast in town, and several neighborhood cafes and Ann Sather Catering is renowned for its wedding receptions, banquets, and catering deliveries.
Homemade Cinnamon Rolls
The first addition to the Ann Sather family arrived on March 9, 1987. Located at 5207 N. Clark Street, Ann Sather Andersonville features exquisite original artworks by Scandinavian artist Sigmund Arseth. Tunney commissioned Arseth to paint 12 canvasses telling the story of Nils, a young boy who, in Swedish folklore, flew high above Sweden on the back of a goose. Arseth also painted the walls with decorative trim and detailing reminiscent of Swedish folk art. Ann Sather Andersonville closed in December of 2013.
 
 
 
The other additions to the Ann Sather family have been on a smaller scale and are known as the Ann Sather Cafes. The cafes seat approximately 25 to 50 people depending upon the location. The food served is breakfast and lunch with a lot of take-out orders. Things changed over the years but not the good food and good friends of the Ann Sather Restaurants.
1978 Menu                                                          1978 Menu

Ann Sather Restaurants has also been instrumental in serving the community with its generous support of local organizations and causes. As Tom says: "My business is a two-way street. We have to take care of each other."


Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 




Ann Sather's [Restaurant] Carrot Bread Recipe

Photo from Ann Sather's Restaurant.



INGREDIENTS
  • 2 1/2 cups flour
  • 2 1/4 tsp each of baking soda & cinnamon
  • 1 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 1 1/4 cups oil
  • 4 large eggs
  • 2 1/2 cups (about 1 small bunch) fresh carrots, trimmed of their tops, peeled and grated
  • 1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
INSTRUCTIONS
  • Preheat oven to 350° F
  • Sift flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in a medium-sized bowl together. Set aside.
  • In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat sugar and oil together on low speed; add eggs and continue beating until incorporated. Increase speed to medium-high and whip until light and fluffy.
  • Alternately stir dry ingredients and grated carrot into the mixture, just until no flour streaks remain.
  • Fold in walnuts.
  • Divide batter into two parchment-lined or well-greased loaf pans. (Ann poured them into greased pans; we like using parchment, which means you can more easily slip the loaves out, and there’s no added fat.) 
  • Bake at 350° F for 30 minutes; reduce oven temperature to 250° F and bake an additional 25 to 30 minutes until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
  • Remove from oven and cool on wire racks for 10 minutes. 
  • Unmold. 
  • Serve warm–especially nice with a little whipped honey butter or slightly-sweetened whipped cream cheese.
Yields 2 Loaves

These loaves bake up with a light-colored exterior but are richly dark inside. Ann Sather's cinnamon-spiced carrot bread is a comfort classic. 

The History of Anderson's Candy Shop in Richmond, Illinois.

Anderson's Candy Shop was founded by Arthur Anderson in 1919 when he left the most famous candy company in Chicago, Krantz's Confectionery, to start his own business. He opened a small shop on Armitage Avenue in Chicago with a make-good gift of flavoring and chocolate from local chocolate and flavoring companies. If Arthur made good he was to pay them back.
Arthur and his family did make good but driven by rising rent Anderson left the city in 1926 and bought a house on what is today Route 12 in Richmond, Illinois. He ran his business out of his front porch and living room selling candy in the cool months and ice cream in the summer.
There was a sign above the door which read: I MAKE MY OWN CANDIES.

Arthur Anderson's motto was: No fancy packaging just the best candy you can buy and that's what you get when you buy Anderson’s. Times got tough during the Great Depression and the war years for Arthur and his candy business. He had to sell off parts of his property in order to keep the business going.
In 1933 the whole nature of the business changed after Arthur and his family visited the Chicago World’s Fair. He came home with the first air conditioner in McHenry County, which allowed him to sell chocolate year-round.

The candy shop almost closed during the Second World War because of rationing on chocolate and sugar supplies. During the war years, Anderson went to work in a defense plant but each month he would save up supplies. When they had enough, Arthur and his wife would open the store for a day but even with a limit of one box per customer, their supply would sell out in just a few hours.
Arthur passed his passion for chocolate down to his son, Raynold Anderson. Raynold was away fighting in Europe during the Second World War. When he returned, he took over the daily operation of the candy shop and married Violet. While Arthur established the business, Raynold expanded it. The post-war economy boomed and people took to the roads to travel like never before. Tourists would pass our shop on their way to Rockford, Chicago and Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, making sure to stop at Anderson's Candy Shop to pick up candy and to talk to the candymaker and his family on the way.
Throughout Raynold's time leading the business methods never changed. In the cooking room, Raynold used the same recipes and methods Arthur taught him and he passed those on to his two boys, Lars, and Lief who are teaching them to their children today.
Lars and Lief took over Anderson's Candy Shop in the late 1980s but continued to practice the same standards of production and service our parents and grandparents showed us years ago. A lot has changed in the world in 90-something years but at Anderson's things are still done the old-fashioned way. They use only the best ingredients including double refined sugar, butter, aged vanilla, and cream. They hand make all of their candy, cooking it in small batches and using recipes handed down through three generations. Leif personally answers phone calls, e-mails, and talks to customers in the Richmond shop every week. Loyal customers appreciate the difference passion and tradition make when producing gourmet chocolates.

Katie Anderson-Tedder is a 4th generation confectioner for Anderson's Candy Shop.

INDEX TO MY ILLINOIS AND CHICAGO FOOD & RESTAURANT ARTICLES.

Compiled by Dr. Neil Gale, Ph.D. 

Monday, June 17, 2019

The History of Affy Tapple, Chicago and America's First and Original Caramel Apple.

For Midwesterners, caramel apples frequently means Affy Tapple, a tradition over 70 years old. The first Affy Tapple was created in 1948 by the Kastrup family. According to history, this was the first caramel apple created in the United States - which is why their tagline is "The Original Caramel Apple!"
The Kastrup family opens an Affy Tapple store at 7117 North Clark Street in Chicago in 1952. Why the goofy name Affy Tapple? So they would be the first name in the confectionary section of the telephone book.
Chicago has long been home to many small, well-respected confectioners. Edna Kastrup was a bookkeeper in one of these establishments. When the company she worked for went up for sale, in the 1950s, she bought it. The name Affy Tapple was trademarked in 1948, said Stuart Sorkin, current President & CEO of Affy Tapple. "Kastrup was the one who really built the Affy Tapple brand to what it becomes," he said.

In 1960, schools start selling Affy Tapples to raise funds for programs. "Affy Tapple Day" quickly becomes one of the most popular days of the school year. Many fundraising events in the 1960s and early 70s bought broken stick Affy Tapples and chocolate-covered frozen bananas for 5¢ each, giving the group a little more profit.

Affy Man
The Founding Family—the Kastrups—sell their company. "Everybody and their grandmother wanted to buy it," said Sorkin. But it was he and his partners who purchased the company in 1995. It employs 35 full-time employees, some of whom have work many years for Affy Tapple. Numerous part-time workers are added during the busy season.

Affy Tapple moved from its original location on Clark Street in Chicago in 2000 to a new state-of-the-art facility in Niles, Illinois.

The company bought Mrs. Prindables in 2001, a gourmet apple and confectionery company, which sells a premium brand of handmade confections and it makes gourmet caramel apples and candies for upscale mail-order catalogs like Harry and David.

Affy Tapple operates year-round but its busiest season is mid-August through the end of November. It uses approximately 45,000 bushels of apples each year.

“Jonathan, Macintosh, and Granny Smith apples are used for Affy Tapples," said company general manager Leo Grigerio. Our gourmet brand primarily uses Granny Smith apples and occasionally Fuji. Other apples can be used for special orders.

In the fall, apples arrive in Niles from Washington state. Earlier in the year, they come from Michigan. The fruit is used within 24 hours of delivery but "you don't want the apples too cold or too hot," said Grigerio. Caramel won't stick to an apple that's wet or cold.

Affy Tapple makes each apple by hand. "Although we're in the 21st century it doesn't mean everything has evolved to the 21st-century automation," said Grigerio. 

"Individuals contribute to the success of this place."

From large bins that hold up to 14 bushels, apples are poured into the 'sticking section.' Fruits that are too small or too large are eliminated. 

A team of women, sitting around a carousel, grab individual apples and, using a press-like device, insert the wooden stick. Each worker impales 23 to 25 apples a minute.

The apples then travel up a conveyor belt where they are dipped in caramel. The same recipe has been used since the company's creation. The caramel is made in small batches, from scratch, every day. There should be at least an eighth of an inch of caramel on each Affy Tapple, said Grigerio.


The recipe's exact proportions are a secret but Grigerio said the basic ingredients are condensed milk, corn syrup, and sugar. A different, richer caramel is used in the company's gourmet products. Knowing when the caramel is done depends as much upon sight as it does upon the recipe. "It's 50 percent visual; knowing the right consistency and shine," said Grigerio.

Affy Tapples come plain and with peanuts, the latter being the overwhelming favorite. After the dipping, apples are rolled in chopped nuts. The plain variety is made on a separate production line. For those with nut allergies, there's no concern about cross-contamination.

The chilly chocolate room is where the gourmet apples are made. After apples have been dipped in caramel, they come here to be drizzled in dark chocolate, white chocolate, and sometimes both. They can also be rolled in any number of "add ons" like cashews, raisins, toffee, or whatever the customer may want.

"One of our most important philosophies is we can supply anyone with anything," Grigerio said.

Affy Tapple is ready to try anything, said Sorkin, although the results can be questionable. Harry and David asked the company for a caramel pear. It was a flop, however, because the fruit doesn't hold the coating as well as apple. Then there was the idea of combining apples with jelly beans. "Apples are great and jelly beans are great but together ... too sweet," Sorkin said.

"We have our purists and the purists are religious to Affy Tapples. We don't want to forget our roots and our roots are here in the Midwest where we have loyal, loyal customers."